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7/21/2024 4:33:16 PM EDT
Someone asked about the settings I used on a few projects so I figured I would add them here in case anyone can use them.

I have a 50W Fiber Laser. I use a 110mm and 175mm lens most of the time depending on what fits.

Settings:

UPDATE: I just discovered a formula I did not know before. I was using trial and error however this formula gets you the frequency needed for max power output. Take your advertised power rating and divide by the max pulse energy and it gives you the frequency for maximum power.

So for my JPT M7 80W:
Laser Power JPT 80W / Max Peak Pulse 1.5 = Max 53.3333 Frequency or 53 mHz
For the MAX 50W below:
Laser Power Max 50W / Max Peak Pulse 1.5 = Max 33.3333 Frequency or 33 mHz

The manual for the JPT also shows the Q-Pulse cut off scale so on that a Q-Pulse of 500ns.


Aluminum Deep
Attached File

Attached File

Engrave Steel
Attached File

Attached File

Attached File

Attached File


Color Cerakote Aluminum
FDE
Attached File

Sand
Attached File

Tan
Attached File


Color Cerakote Steel
Bronze
Attached File

FDE
Attached File

Green
Attached File


PMAG
Brown
Attached File

FDE
Attached File

Gray
Attached File

Light Gray
Attached File

Light Camo Brown
Attached File

Light Tan
Attached File

Glock Stipple
Attached File



Examples:

Attached File

Attached File

Scrap lower I used for dialing in the settings:
Attached File

Attached File













7/21/2024 4:33:39 PM EDT
[#1]
@grn_zx6r
7/21/2024 6:28:54 PM EDT
[#2]
Some beautiful work!!
7/22/2024 5:35:05 PM EDT
[#3]
Holy Shit! I had no idea you could do that with a laser. That is awesome work.
7/22/2024 6:40:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Someone asked about the settings I used on a few projects so I figured I would add them here in case anyone can use them.

I have a 50W Fiber Laser. I use a 110mm and 175mm lens most of the time depending on what fits.
Settings:

Aluminum Deep
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/a1_png-3273223.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/a2_png-3273224.JPG
Engrave Steel
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s1_png-3273226.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s2_png-3273227.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s3_png-3273229.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s4_png-3273230.JPG

Color Cerakote Aluminum
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273232.JPG
Sand
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s_png-3273233.JPG
Tan
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/t_png-3273235.JPG

Color Cerakote Steel
Bronze
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/b_png-3273236.JPG
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273237.JPG
Green
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/g_png-3273238.JPG

PMAG
Brown
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/b_png-3273242.JPG
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273243.JPG
Gray
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/g_png-3273244.JPG
Light Gray
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/lg_png-3273245.JPG
Light Camo Brown
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/cb_png-3273248.JPG
Light Tan
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/lt_png-3273252.JPG
Glock Stipple
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/glk_png-3273253.JPG


Examples:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240624_044953_jpg-3249356.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240624_045050_jpg-3249357.JPG
Scrap lower I used for dialing in the settings:
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240607_121929_jpg-3250329.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/c0d8947d-3948-4805-becf-0da508a66804_jpg-3273213.JPG
https://i.imgur.com/03ufyiF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZyS3Fmv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uw7F1WO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VWFrjdA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6dlWaxI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LuOnL5M.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s4j9oU7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JALkASM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TDEhwb1.jpg
View Quote

@OG1
What laser are you using? Is there a newer model out now that you would recommend?
7/22/2024 8:32:31 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:

@OG1
What laser are you using? Is there a newer model out now that you would recommend?
View Quote
I got this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/126166158159  (they threw in the rotary free after adding to cart as an incentive) using a Max 50W laser source. You can do the same with a cheaper 20W it just takes longer. If you want to do colors on stainless look into a MOPA. If I had it to do over again, I really want the Monport GA 100W, it does a lot and they have deals much cheaper for on ebay than the website.
7/23/2024 3:09:51 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
@grn_zx6r
View Quote


Thanks @OG1 !! Can’t wait to try these out once we get back from vacation!
7/23/2024 3:28:57 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:


Thanks @OG1 !! Can't wait to try these out once we get back from vacation!
View Quote
Most welcome. I use a program also that converts all the settings you have saved in your library to different wattages so like 50W to 20W or anything like 110mm lens to 175mm and so on. It is not perfect by any means but gets you in the ball park after doing so much work say on one lens then going to another. On deep engraving I don't change it since I want full power but it seemed to convert the pmag settings pretty well when I tested it.

https://github.com/shark92651/LaserParamsConverter

(Direct link may work from here but if not just use above and dl the zip) https://github.com/shark92651/LaserParamsConverter/archive/refs/heads/master.zip



7/23/2024 7:08:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:
I got this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/126166158159  (they threw in the rotary free after adding to cart as an incentive) using a Max 50W laser source. You can do the same with a cheaper 20W it just takes longer. If you want to do colors on stainless look into a MOPA. If I had it to do over again, I really want the Monport GA 100W, it does a lot and they have deals much cheaper for on ebay than the website.
View Quote


Insane how cheap fiber lasers are getting. I got my Monport 30w on Ebay for $1,800 with a Raycus source and no rotary. But I agree, if I had to do it all over again I'd get a JPT MOPA.
7/24/2024 12:34:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Thank you very much.

I was coming here to ask for some help with deep engraving in steel. This was exactly what I needed.
7/24/2024 12:44:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
Thank you very much.

I was coming here to ask for some help with deep engraving in steel. This was exactly what I needed.
View Quote
Awesome. Just run as many passes as it takes on your machine to get to the depth you like. The settings for that will work on any lens or power, I keep that the same on all 3 lenses I have but go deeper on the 70mm and 110 of course. The frequency is also where the depth comes in, run that as low as your machine will allow.

I ran the aluminum settings with a global of 3 instead of 2 on this one and really like the way it came out:

Attached File

7/24/2024 1:28:47 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Quoted:
Awesome. Just run as many passes as it takes on your machine to get to the depth you like. The settings for that will work on any lens or power, I keep that the same on all 3 lenses I have but go deeper on the 70mm and 110 of course. The frequency is also where the depth comes in, run that as low as your machine will allow.

I ran the aluminum settings with a global of 3 instead of 2 on this one and really like the way it came out:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/airforce_jpg-3275710.JPG
View Quote

That turned out great, I may have to do one. My friends son just joined the Air Force.

just tried those settings, got good results but it doesnt look like im getting as much depth as you. I have a 100W MOPA. ran it at 75% power. Still need to play around more with it.


Also for the Scroll work you've done, are you designing it yourself or using software?
7/29/2024 9:01:10 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:

That turned out great, I may have to do one. My friends son just joined the Air Force.

just tried those settings, got good results but it doesnt look like im getting as much depth as you. I have a 100W MOPA. ran it at 75% power. Still need to play around more with it.


Also for the Scroll work you've done, are you designing it yourself or using software?
View Quote
Thanks! On the engraving it pretty much takes all the power you can throw at it then adjust number of passes. I made a few scrolls but it took sooooooo long so I bought a kit with them incuded. Shoot me an email and if the size is not too large I can send you the ai8 files to them or svg if preferred. I did this on this weekend and ended up using crayon as color fill:

Attached File

Attached File
8/7/2024 11:38:59 PM EDT
[#13]
Absolutely amazing work!
8/14/2024 8:19:05 AM EDT
[#14]
Nice work. Thank you for sharing your settings.
8/14/2024 9:05:32 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Absolutely amazing work!
View Quote

Quoted:
Nice work. Thank you for sharing your settings.
View Quote
Thank you both very kindly. I have upgraded to an 80W JPT and will update to those as well. I was surprised in the difference between a 50 and 80 on the testing I have done so far.
8/14/2024 9:06:21 AM EDT
[#16]
Thanks some nice work.
Thanks for the settings too!
I'll be converting them down to my 20w Raycus after work.

I'm still working on marking some cheap white acrylic dice, but PMag, SBR & 80% are next on my list.
8/14/2024 9:12:06 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote History
Quoted:
... I ran the aluminum settings with a global of 3 instead of 2 on this one and really like the way it came out:
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/airforce_jpg-3275710.JPG
Quoted:
Thank you both very kindly. I have upgraded to an 80W JPT ...
View Quote
That's some nice, clean cutting.
Are you working with images or vectors?
Directly in Lightburn or in something else for layout then importing?

I'm doing prep work in Inkscape, but final designs don't transfer over as cleanly as I'd like.

Mmmm... 80w JPT.... Tease Me Harder Daddy!!
(nope - not at all jealous, why do you ask? )
8/14/2024 9:16:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote History
Quoted:
That's some nice, clean cutting.
Are you working with images or vectors?
Directly in Lightburn or in something else for layout then importing?

I'm doing prep work in Inkscape, but final designs don't transfer over as cleanly as I'd like.

Mmmm... 80w JPT.... Tease Me Harder Daddy!!
(nope - not at all jealous, why do you ask? )
View Quote
Thanks! I am doing everything except scroll work right in lightburn. I am either using them premade or making the vectors. Lightburn's trace works pretty darn good to make the vectors but I really like how easy it is to manipulate curves and draw your own stuff in it. I do also use Inkscape but since getting into lightburn I have not looked back for anything else except Illustrator so I can layer the scroll work.
8/16/2024 12:24:57 AM EDT
[#19]
I've been having a hell of a time working out numbers for cheap white acrylic dice.
So far, on a 20w Raycus, 110 lens, I'm at 800mm/s, 40%, Freq 60, line 0.05, and anywhere between 1 and 10 passes (solid images lower, thin vectors more)

I may give in and sacrifice more to a material test matrix or two now that I have a rough range to look at.
8/29/2024 1:01:38 PM EDT
[#20]
A custom scroll job I did on a build:



8/29/2024 1:05:33 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote History


Awesome work and design. Where do you hide the serial number?
8/29/2024 1:09:29 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote History
Quoted:


Awesome work and design. Where do you hide the serial number?
View Quote
Thanks! It was an 80% pistol build but I did put some info in the trigger area, I think I did
CAL: MULTI
SER: the date and my initials SS
8/29/2024 3:57:21 PM EDT
[#23]
That's Nice... :-)
8/29/2024 4:57:30 PM EDT
[#24]
Nice work!  For laughs, I was thinking a Mattel branded lower would be cool, or the Tupperware logo on a polymer pistol frame.
8/29/2024 5:01:22 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote History
Quoted:
Nice work!  For laughs, I was thinking a Mattel branded lower would be cool, or the Tupperware logo on a polymer pistol frame.
View Quote
I think both of those would be awesome. I wish I had access to de-milled or chopped up Glock frames to practice on. I tried A2 grips and even my Lonewolf frame but nothing is like Glocks plastic, it must be something special, it is so easy to work where all the other plastics fight me. I do have an old poly AR lower I may play with now that I am thinking about it.
9/3/2024 2:09:07 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote History
Quoted:
Nice work!  For laughs, I was thinking a Mattel branded lower would be cool, or the Tupperware logo on a polymer pistol frame.
View Quote
I went off to look for the right MATTEL logo to see what I could whip up, and darnit... now I'm looking for Crane MK18 MOD0 graphics.

I found a post from around 2010 where someone made a nice PSD of it and offered it around, but, well, anonymized archives and all that. :-/
9/17/2024 12:08:47 PM EDT
[#27]
OP you have a lot of nice work, the scroll work is amazing and so are you for sharing the settings. (way above my pay grade but someone can learn something im sure) so, bump?
9/17/2024 12:14:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Thank you kindly
9/18/2024 5:35:21 PM EDT
[#29]
About how long does a roll mark burn like the armalite one you show take and what is the actual depth? I presently have a CNC router and am seriously thinking about getting a laser, your handy work is giving me a big push.
9/18/2024 5:43:44 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote History
Quoted:
About how long does a roll mark burn like the armalite one you show take and what is the actual depth? I presently have a CNC router and am seriously thinking about getting a laser, your handy work is giving me a big push.
View Quote
It depends on what power fiber laser you get. I think my 80W takes about 10 mins and is deeper than typical factory bought AR's. The Air Force one above is zoomed in and really shows it. You can achieve the exact same results with a 20w, it will just take longer. I started doing it on my CNC and it did not look bad at all. My issues there was I really really had to get the lower very very flat in my vise or it would be un even. Then I played with the Tormach diamond drag tool and it was very easy to use but not very deep.

Here is a quick video I did using the diamond drag method.

Diamond Drag Engraving with a Tormach TTS Diamond Drag kit.

9/23/2024 1:12:30 PM EDT
[#31]
So you have upgraded to the JPT 80w, would that be the one that they refer to on Ebay as a Preeneex? Are you happy with it?

You obviously are very experienced. I see a lot of negative comments about just about all of the manufacturers (Monport, Omtech, etc) on places like Reddit. Is that because a lot of the people are not very technically competent and the manufacturers don't provide much support or are these Chinese made lasers truly not very reliable?.....Thanks for any input, Mike
9/23/2024 1:20:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote History
Quoted:
So you have upgraded to the JPT 80w, would that be the one that they refer to on Ebay as a Preeneex? Are you happy with it?

You obviously are very experienced. I see a lot of negative comments about just about all of the manufacturers (Monport, Omtech, etc) on places like Reddit. Is that because a lot of the people are not very technically competent and the manufacturers don't provide much support or are these Chinese made lasers truly not very reliable?.....Thanks for any input, Mike
View Quote
I love it and the max 50w. I think the reason people complain is the Chinese do not tune it at all. There are many settings that need tweaking to dial it in to perfection. This series covers all of them, some are oriented to Ezcad but same things to go over. All 3 of mine have been rock solid. I am having an unfortunate issue now with the 50w I sold to an arfcomer. USPS nearly destroyed it in shipping but hopefully we will get that going and him some cash back if usps will ever respond to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_M19yy4G9g&list=PLoBR3k35202Yjc1yMfPZsY8EDh_pmcaa2



9/23/2024 2:26:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote History


Thankyou thankyou thankyou, That video you recommended was exactly what I needed at this point in time. It sorts out a lot of the jargon, brand names and technology types. I am just starting my trip into the world of lasers and although I have experience in CNC and other manufacturing processes I knew nothing about lasers. It seems to be a fast moving technology and a lot of information out there that is more than a year old is pretty much obsolete. Thanks again, I'll probably be back with more questions seeing as firearms are also a hobby of mine.
9/23/2024 2:29:39 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote History
Quoted:


Thankyou thankyou thankyou, That video you recommended was exactly what I needed at this point in time. It sorts out a lot of the jargon, brand names and technology types. I am just starting my trip into the world of lasers and although I have experience in CNC and other manufacturing processes I knew nothing about lasers. It seems to be a fast moving technology and a lot of information out there that is more than a year old is pretty much obsolete. Thanks again, I'll probably be back with more questions seeing as firearms are also a hobby of mine.
View Quote
Awesome! I am more than happy to help when you are ready.
9/24/2024 10:45:24 PM EDT
[#35]
Just stumbled on this thread. Thank you OP for taking the time to do a write up and all the responses. Subscribed!
9/26/2024 1:46:15 PM EDT
[#36]
I just got my personal 60w MOPA galvo powered up today.  Drivers and software are installed and I did a test run on some scrap mild steel.

I've got experience at a couple of different jobs with large format KERN CO2 gantry lasers and a 40w galvo fiber marker.  EzCad is what the 40w fiber used so I know the basics with it.  I'm brand spanking new to Lightburn though. I have to click around in there to figure it all out.  I'll be referencing your settings to help with that.
9/26/2024 2:15:42 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote History
Quoted:
I just got my personal 60w MOPA galvo powered up today.  Drivers and software are installed and I did a test run on some scrap mild steel.

I've got experience at a couple of different jobs with large format KERN CO2 gantry lasers and a 40w galvo fiber marker.  EzCad is what the 40w fiber used so I know the basics with it.  I'm brand spanking new to Lightburn though. I have to click around in there to figure it all out.  I'll be referencing your settings to help with that.
View Quote

Awesome! The settings change for every machine but it will get you in the ballpark. I just did the outlines in Lightburn for a Sig 365 and it is just so easy to use after you get the hang of it.






^ Those did not come out the way I hoped. I have found fine details don't translate well so larger shapes are needed.



I designed a rat rod themed lower and engraved and machined it. It is pretty cool but also has very fine details that are hard to see.

















10/12/2024 8:39:12 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Someone asked about the settings I used on a few projects so I figured I would add them here in case anyone can use them.

I have a 50W Fiber Laser. I use a 110mm and 175mm lens most of the time depending on what fits.

Settings:

UPDATE: I just discovered a formula I did not know before. I was using trial and error however this formula gets you the frequency needed for max power output. Take your advertised power rating and divide by the max pulse energy and it gives you the frequency for maximum power.

So for my JPT M7 80W:
Laser Power JPT 80W / Max Peak Pulse 1.5 = Max 53.3333 Frequency or 53 mHz
For the MAX 50W below:
Laser Power Max 50W / Max Peak Pulse 1.5 = Max 33.3333 Frequency or 33 mHz

The manual for the JPT also shows the Q-Pulse cut off scale so on that a Q-Pulse of 500ns.


Aluminum Deep
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/a1_png-3273223.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/a2_png-3273224.JPG
Engrave Steel
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s1_png-3273226.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s2_png-3273227.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s3_png-3273229.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s4_png-3273230.JPG

Color Cerakote Aluminum
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273232.JPG
Sand
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/s_png-3273233.JPG
Tan
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/t_png-3273235.JPG

Color Cerakote Steel
Bronze
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/b_png-3273236.JPG
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273237.JPG
Green
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/g_png-3273238.JPG

PMAG
Brown
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/b_png-3273242.JPG
FDE
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/f_png-3273243.JPG
Gray
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/g_png-3273244.JPG
Light Gray
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/lg_png-3273245.JPG
Light Camo Brown
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/cb_png-3273248.JPG
Light Tan
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/lt_png-3273252.JPG
Glock Stipple
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/glk_png-3273253.JPG


Examples:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240624_044953_jpg-3249356.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240624_045050_jpg-3249357.JPG
Scrap lower I used for dialing in the settings:
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/20240607_121929_jpg-3250329.JPG
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/289319/c0d8947d-3948-4805-becf-0da508a66804_jpg-3273213.JPG
https://i.imgur.com/03ufyiF.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZyS3Fmv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uw7F1WO.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VWFrjdA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6dlWaxI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LuOnL5M.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/s4j9oU7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JALkASM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/TDEhwb1.jpg



View Quote


@OG1

I finally had some time to play with my laser and try your settings. Setup light burn and imported the laser settings that came on the thumb drive they included with my laser.

On the aluminum deep which lens are you using ? How many passes does it take for you to get some actual depth? I cannot go down to 20hz my lowest setting is 45, does that make a big difference?

I have a 150mm lens (set to 332mm above workpiece per manual) and using your settings it removes the black coating in the hard coat anodized aluminum scrap receiver I’m practicing on but there’s zero depth in the actual aluminum. Certainly not to ATF spec for a NFA engraving.

Would a smaller lens work better? Manufacture offers 70,110,150,175,200&300mm for my laser.
10/12/2024 10:07:52 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote History
Quoted:


@OG1

I finally had some time to play with my laser and try your settings. Setup light burn and imported the laser settings that came on the thumb drive they included with my laser.

On the aluminum deep which lens are you using ? How many passes does it take for you to get some actual depth? I cannot go down to 20hz my lowest setting is 45, does that make a big difference?

I have a 150mm lens (set to 332mm above workpiece per manual) and using your settings it removes the black coating in the hard coat anodized aluminum scrap receiver I'm practicing on but there's zero depth in the actual aluminum. Certainly not to ATF spec for a NFA engraving.

Would a smaller lens work better? Manufacture offers 70,110,150,175,200&300mm for my laser.
View Quote
1. The 150mm lens should be fine. The closer you are the faster and deeper the burn. I have a 110mm that is pretty ideal I would swap for the 150mm but I suggest you keep ot to give yourself room if you need to have a wider work area. For example, I did some pistol slides with a 110mm. It was much much faster however I had to angle the part diagonally to make it fit where as the 175mm let me keep it horizontal which made it much easier to align. My 300mm lens is useless to me pretty much. I do also have a 70mm that is crazy fast and deep but you have to be so close it is only really good for coins and such. Which brings me to #2

2. Focal length is absolutely critical to a proper engraving. On my current machine my focal lengths are as follows:

lens used /  Distance From Part
70mm  -  7mm
110mm  -  75mm
175mm  - 177mm
300mm  -  390mm

That being said. 322mm above workpiece for yours is way to far away IMHO. You need to find the perfect focal distance for your machine and record that like I did above. One way to do that is make a basic shape say a .25 square or 1" square and set to fill not outline. Use you most powerful settings and 45khz is just fine. Then start close to where you think you need to be. For example, you have yours already dialed in 332mm above the part so fire it up then start lowering the z axis and as you do, it will get louder and brighter. When you get to the loudest/brightest position then feather it up and down to get very precise and record your height then either make a focal stick or way to measure. I installed a mini DRO on mine and use a height gauge.

Here is a good vid on it with the sound and visual.

Find Your Lasers OPTIMAL Focal Point with LightBurn for Galvo


10/12/2024 12:50:50 PM EDT
[#40]






10/13/2024 7:38:14 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote History
Quoted:
1. The 150mm lens should be fine. The closer you are the faster and deeper the burn. I have a 110mm that is pretty ideal I would swap for the 150mm but I suggest you keep ot to give yourself room if you need to have a wider work area. For example, I did some pistol slides with a 110mm. It was much much faster however I had to angle the part diagonally to make it fit where as the 175mm let me keep it horizontal which made it much easier to align. My 300mm lens is useless to me pretty much. I do also have a 70mm that is crazy fast and deep but you have to be so close it is only really good for coins and such. Which brings me to #2

2. Focal length is absolutely critical to a proper engraving. On my current machine my focal lengths are as follows:

lens used /  Distance From Part
70mm  -  7mm
110mm  -  75mm
175mm  - 177mm
300mm  -  390mm

That being said. 322mm above workpiece for yours is way to far away IMHO. You need to find the perfect focal distance for your machine and record that like I did above. One way to do that is make a basic shape say a .25 square or 1" square and set to fill not outline. Use you most powerful settings and 45khz is just fine. Then start close to where you think you need to be. For example, you have yours already dialed in 332mm above the part so fire it up then start lowering the z axis and as you do, it will get louder and brighter. When you get to the loudest/brightest position then feather it up and down to get very precise and record your height then either make a focal stick or way to measure. I installed a mini DRO on mine and use a height gauge.

Here is a good vid on it with the sound and visual.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4NCh2z3BSE

View Quote


Thank you! Got it dialed in and using your settings it came out perfect!
10/13/2024 7:43:52 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote History
Quoted:


Thank you! Got it dialed in and using your settings it came out perfect!
View Quote
Hells yeah man!
10/13/2024 8:33:14 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote History


@OG1 did you purchase these Colt files or are they available for download somewhere? Any sites you’d recommend for firearm related files?

I see a ton of stuff on Etsy . I purchased a nice set of fixtures on Etsy to hold various firearm parts flat and level while engraving.. ar receivers, pistol slides, pmags, etc
10/13/2024 9:40:47 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote History
Quoted:


@OG1 did you purchase these Colt files or are they available for download somewhere? Any sites you'd recommend for firearm related files?

I see a ton of stuff on Etsy . I purchased a nice set of fixtures on Etsy to hold various firearm parts flat and level while engraving.. ar receivers, pistol slides, pmags, etc
View Quote
No Sir, I don't think they can legally be sold or used for profit. I made mine in illustrator and lightburn and once made adjusting to all the varieties are easy. These last three I did for free for a good friend dedicatng then to some of his brothers in sf. Shoot me a message later
10/13/2024 11:10:22 AM EDT
[#45]
I'm working up some sideplate markings for a close friend and have a question - where/when was the change from Colt's MFG to Colt Defense? So far I have pics of an Ar15-A3, le6920, cr6920, and M4 Commando, and they're all the newer Colt Defense.

edit - Wiki says they split in 2002 with CD taking the mil, le and 'private security' market. I guess it makes sense, but I never thought of Civvy 6920s as LE/Gov.
10/17/2024 7:57:11 AM EDT
[#46]
Tried out a laser stipple on my 43x
10/17/2024 8:06:25 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote History
Quoted:
Tried out a laser stipple on my 43x
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouTjOE1qPZo
View Quote
That is perfection! Looks outstanding!
10/17/2024 2:22:45 PM EDT
[#48]
That is about state of the art at this point. For most of that pony logo work, the font needs to be helvetica condensed bold, and the SAFE / SEMI ? Auto in helvetica bold 2.5mm high.
10/17/2024 2:29:31 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote History
Quoted:
That is about state of the art at this point. For most of that pony logo work, the font needs to be helvetica condensed bold, and the SAFE / SEMI ? Auto in helvetica bold 2.5mm high.
View Quote
Thank you. I will look into that
10/17/2024 9:39:29 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote History
Quoted:
That is about state of the art at this point. For most of that pony logo work, the font needs to be helvetica condensed bold, and the SAFE / SEMI ? Auto in helvetica bold 2.5mm high.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
That is about state of the art at this point. For most of that pony logo work, the font needs to be helvetica condensed bold, and the SAFE / SEMI ? Auto in helvetica bold 2.5mm high.
I've been using Arial Narrow or Gil Sans MT Condensed as a base and adjusting paths to final shape .... mostly because I don't have a machine with Helvetica right now.


Quoted:
Tried out a laser stipple on my 43x
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouTjOE1qPZo
I've got a quarter that says you should put GRIP ZONE markings on the next Glock.

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