The thread for new to 3D printing to ask questions (Page 5 of 7)
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Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas:In the preview tab when you drag the slider down, does it show the black tracking in the right place? Originally Posted By ScooterInVegas:In the preview tab when you drag the slider down, does it show the black tracking in the right place? Slices just fine. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-:Looks to me that your print plate may have shifted? Doesn't look straight. You sure the plate was in the proper place? I see that now. It was on right, it would have shifted while the print was going though. I wish I had the flash drive in it so I could see the video of what happened. I just happened to forget to pull it from my NAS (where I dump the files and erase it) before starting this job. I'm going to send it again to see if it happens again. I forced it to slice again by shifting the purge tower a little so it will be a "clean slice". |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
Failed again with the same issue but the plate did not move for certain. It does the first pass of black, then white. Then it does the second round of black and is off.   The more I look at these pictures, I have to wonder if the white isn't off from the start. The slice looks fine still. The plate is still hot. once it cools and I can clean off the material from it I'll rung the calibrations again. I haven't run them since I first set up the machine. Maybe it needs it again. This is the first real repeatable failure I've had though. Right before this I printed five sets of the desiccant pods and they printed fine. One color, but printed fine. ETA: I watched the video and it homed to the purge chute fine, changed filament and purged fine. When it came out with the black is played it down off. The plate didn't move from the original layer. ETA2: Watching the video, it does drift right and then left before completing its purge and going to the print tower. I never noticed it do that before, but that might be normal. Here is the video, you can see what I'm talking about at 2:15. ETA3: The white prints off from the black from the beginning. These are after pealing them off the plate. Black first, then white is the order.  
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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After running the printer calibrations again, I'm printing plate 2 of the potato signs and they are printing normally right now. It only has 4 of them so I'd know if they fail sooner than the other plate. 46 more minutes for it to run and then I'll try the first plate again and see how it works. I feel better seeing this one printing right. ETA: The first plate printed normally after this. I did go through the Prepare on it and "reset" all the changed items in the Process -> Global section. No idea what they were but I know this batch did infill differently, but effectively. The print tower was also back to the more clover leaf style I'm used to seeing. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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I had a bad plate start with the same tags. For some reason, it prints them correctly on the first plate, but if I add a plate to the project and copy over the items it added Thickness (0.6) to the words. This means the white is elevated from the plate and it fails to print. I saw a notice about needing supports but assumed it was a glitch. Then I realized it was horribly wrong when it printed the tower in black rather than white like it should have. I stopped the job when it hit what was happening. Then it left me this.  I found a new torture method in a modern world. Don't shove bamboo under their fingernails, make them scrape up filament. Is there an "easy" way to get lettering like this (in PETG) off the plate? Next time I'm going to just let it try to print the white at least once so it can grab the black... at least that is my thought. I just don't want to waste the filament. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I had a bad plate start with the same tags. For some reason, it prints them correctly on the first plate, but if I add a plate to the project and copy over the items it added Thickness (0.6) to the words. This means the white is elevated from the plate and it fails to print. I saw a notice about needing supports but assumed it was a glitch. Then I realized it was horribly wrong when it printed the tower in black rather than white like it should have. I stopped the job when it hit what was happening. Then it left me this. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2140_20260330.jpeg I found a new torture method in a modern world. Don't shove bamboo under their fingernails, make them scrape up filament. Is there an "easy" way to get lettering like this (in PETG) off the plate? Next time I'm going to just let it try to print the white at least once so it can grab the black... at least that is my thought. I just don't want to waste the filament. I swear nobody listens to me.  Listen people. Yes you. You, who are reading this. Don't look at who this post is responding to. This is for YOU. Yes, you. Go to Home Depot. Go to the flooring section. Ask a flooring associate where the Chisel Tip razor blades for carpet trimmers are. Buy the Personna brand. Done. Only blades you'll ever need. |
| That is on my list next time I'm at Home Depot. I was under the impression that to treat build plates like coats pans, never use anything metal on them. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: That is on my list next time I'm at Home Depot. I was under the impression that to treat build plates like coats pans, never use anything metal on them. Well, if you know which metal and in which manner it's fine. Like metal in a microwave, its easier to tell people not to do it than to explain technique. 
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: That is on my list next time I'm at Home Depot. I was under the impression that to treat build plates like coats pans, never use anything metal on them. Bambu ships all of their printers with a metal scraper blade…so the manufacturer is good with it (provided it’s done right). |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008:Bambu ships all of their printers with a metal scraper blade…so the manufacturer is good with it (provided it’s done right). I got a metal blade with my printer? ETA:  
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I got a metal blade with my printer? ETA: https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2146_20260331.jpeg https://media4.giphy.com/media/5VKbvrjxpVJCM/200.webp?cid=8dc8958c86wnzwdvy0dfvdsb3p8k1eec05mbe9lxs98wx5o3&ep=v1_gifs_search&rid=200.webp&ct=g Here is the official Bambu handle print.....there are also about 10 million variants on MW though. https://makerworld.com/en/models/12702-bambu-scraper-grip#profileId-12703 |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008:Here is the official Bambu handle print.....there are also about 10 million variants on MW though. https://makerworld.com/en/models/12702-bambu-scraper-grip#profileId-12703 That thing is in the embedded print files in the printer! I wondered why it was in there. 
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
Does nozzle scrubbing always suck? From the beginning I've noticed I regularly have a bit of filament hanging out of the nozzle after purging and having completed the print job. Normally I check and pull it off before going to the next job but I don't always recall to do so. Then I end up with something like today: Thankfully I noticed it before it actually became a real problem and imperfections aren't a problem for these prints since they are going in the garden.  Do y'all always look for that hanging remnant? I've seen it fling off at the pre-print nozzle cleaning and end up on the build plate. Normally if I don't see it and find it later the fan on the print head moved it or it ended up pushed around by the nozzle but not interfere. This time I had to pull it off the printed letters with a little bit of force. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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I've read a few times that orientation is key for a stronger build. Blob said it in a thread where he printed a part "sideways" and used acetone to meld it to the main part. I recall someone doing a plywood corner part where someone said to stand the triangle shape up. So thinking through print lines and layers it is making sense. At what point should I consider orientation more than speed and the filament consumed? Using my seed starter spoons as an example there is a massive difference between the two. We had our first casualty the spoons and it seems to be right with the layers.  This is my "normal" orientation even though the original print job on MW has them standing up. I laid them down to make printing the words easier.  So I took all of them and laid them over again 90° and added support. Maybe it would be better to widen the top portion to match the width of the bottom, but still, that is a ton of filament used to get this orientation, but it puts the layers in a more favorable pattern for longevity.  I'm not going to print these spoons like the bottom image. It would be "cheaper" in time and filament to just reprint specific spoons verse making them stronger like this. For other prints, is there a general rule of thumb y'all use to make the call on orientation? I even recently saw something saying I should print everything at 45° off to make the layers even more varied. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I've read a few times that orientation is key for a stronger build. Blob said it in a thread where he printed a part "sideways" and used acetone to meld it to the main part. I recall someone doing a plywood corner part where someone said to stand the triangle shape up. So thinking through print lines and layers it is making sense. At what point should I consider orientation more than speed and the filament consumed? Using my seed starter spoons as an example there is a massive difference between the two. We had our first casualty the spoons and it seems to be right with the layers. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_1786_20260406.jpeg This is my "normal" orientation even though the original print job on MW has them standing up. I laid them down to make printing the words easier. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/spoonsflat_20260406.jpeg So I took all of them and laid them over again 90° and added support. Maybe it would be better to widen the top portion to match the width of the bottom, but still, that is a ton of filament used to get this orientation, but it puts the layers in a more favorable pattern for longevity. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/spoons90out_20260406.jpeg I'm not going to print these spoons like the bottom image. It would be "cheaper" in time and filament to just reprint specific spoons verse making them stronger like this. For other prints, is there a general rule of thumb y'all use to make the call on orientation? I even recently saw something saying I should print everything at 45° off to make the layers even more varied. Print orientation is everything. Absolutely critical for a strong part. The slicer's auto orient feature isn't considering strength because it has no idea how the part is intended to be used, it is optimizing orientation for the least amount of overhang. Your part is super thin and has a tiny amount of surface area to create strong layer bonds. Orienting at 45 degrees can help with some parts but I don't believe it will make a big difference with these considering how small they are. You can add a nice fillet to the inside corner to add some more strength, or lay them on their edges for maximum strength. Drawback there will make printing the multi color text more of a bear. I have also seen thermo forming on the tik toks where a part will be printed flat and then heated with a heat gun and pressed against a printed form. Neat little trick. |
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Took another look at this tonight. I would solve this problem by adding some ribs/gussets to the sides of the part to massively improve the strength while retaining easy printability for both the part and text. Simple and effective. Attached File A single rib would probably be strong enough for what you're doing and would save a bit more material. Attached File |
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That isn't a bad idea for a modification on the spoon. I showed my wife and talked with her about it and she isn't a fan. Given she is the primary user, I guess I'll go with what she wants. She said with even one more side "limited" she would have to deal with removing the soil and roots without hurting the roots from one less side. I kinda like the idea of a flat form and heat gun to bend though. I might look at something like that. A simple jig out of wood and I could certainly give that a try. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
I think she's change averse more than anything. She likes what she has and doesn't seem to want to do different now that she has 240 of them one way. She's melancholy (temperament) enough that different in the mix is "just not right".   I'll see what I can convince her to do for it. With only one having broken so far (and her kicking back at a design change) I'm not going to sweat this one yet. You've taught me some good idea to manage similar challenges in the future though. That is invaluable to me. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
New question from a MW comment I saw on this print. The print is a simple bit holder so you can use a bit like a thumb driver. Pause the print to add a magnet? What wizard is this they speak of? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: New question from a MW comment I saw on this print. The print is a simple bit holder so you can use a bit like a thumb driver. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_1193_20260408.jpeg Pause the print to add a magnet? What wizard is this they speak of? Scroll the preview to where you want, right click on the + sign, add pause. Attached File Insert magnet or other hardware and continue printing. Be careful if using a steel nozzle since it will attract the magnet as it passes over. I've used the technique a few times and it works pretty well. Capturing hex nuts inside a print is pretty neat. I paused mid print and inserted one in this ball mount to tension the part using a cap screw in order to strengthen the part since the layer lines were running in the weakest orientation. It's been going strong for a couple years now. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: New question from a MW comment I saw on this print. The print is a simple bit holder so you can use a bit like a thumb driver. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_1193_20260408.jpeg Pause the print to add a magnet? What wizard is this they speak of? No offence dude but I think it would be worth your time to go through the Bambu Academy courses on both your machine, along with the software classes. They do a good job covering stuff like this. When I went through them, I thought I had a decent grasp on everything already and basically took them for the free MW points. Pretty sure I learned multiple things in each course I took.....it was worth the time. I know they've been posted a few times, but just to keep someone from hunting for them: Bambu Academy P2S Bambu Academy - Bambu Studio Bambu Academy - Bambu Handy Bambu Academy - Main Academy Page w/ Other Machines...etc |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
| Thanks for the links. I'm bookmarking them. I recall reading about them in another thread (earning points doing it too, or something like that) but it was long forgotten about with everything else I'm working on. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Thanks for the links. I'm bookmarking them. I recall reading about them in another thread (earning points doing it too, or something like that) but it was long forgotten about with everything else I'm working on. No worries….there is a lot to learn in this hobby for sure. It’s hard retain all the info you learn sometimes….let alone figuring out all the things you don’t know. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008:No worries….there is a lot to learn in this hobby for sure. It’s hard retain all the info you learn sometimes….let alone figuring out all the things you don’t know. Originally Posted By fox2008:No worries….there is a lot to learn in this hobby for sure. It’s hard retain all the info you learn sometimes….let alone figuring out all the things you don’t know. No kidding. Apparently I did more in it than I realized.  This is for the P2S Course.Beginner Continue Completed 12/13 Chapters So I did start it. Probably how I got as far along as I have to this point. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By fox2008: No offence dude but I think it would be worth your time to go through the Bambu Academy courses on both your machine, along with the software classes. They do a good job covering stuff like this. When I went through them, I thought I had a decent grasp on everything already and basically took them for the free MW points. Pretty sure I learned multiple things in each course I took.....it was worth the time. I know they've been posted a few times, but just to keep someone from hunting for them: Bambu Academy P2S Bambu Academy - Bambu Studio Bambu Academy - Bambu Handy Bambu Academy - Main Academy Page w/ Other Machines...etc .
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Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: I had already completed the H2D courses, clicked your links and realized I could get more points by doing the X1C and filament courses. I'll try the other printer models later to see if I can get points even though I don't own them .Originally Posted By Saker13: Originally Posted By fox2008: No offence dude but I think it would be worth your time to go through the Bambu Academy courses on both your machine, along with the software classes. They do a good job covering stuff like this. When I went through them, I thought I had a decent grasp on everything already and basically took them for the free MW points. Pretty sure I learned multiple things in each course I took.....it was worth the time. I know they've been posted a few times, but just to keep someone from hunting for them: Bambu Academy P2S Bambu Academy - Bambu Studio Bambu Academy - Bambu Handy Bambu Academy - Main Academy Page w/ Other Machines...etc .Seems like a gateway to buying another printer….not that it takes much for me though lol |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008: Seems like a gateway to buying another printer .not that it takes much for me though lol But, once I have the room, the H2C will probably weasel it's way into my setup...... |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By Saker13: I'm actually looking to get rid of the X1C. Mainly so I can justify another AMS2 or two and another AMS HT for the H2D. But, once I have the room, the H2C will probably weasel it's way into my setup...... Hard to unload a useful printer for so little though. Resale is terrible. Nive printed two things since Jan 1 on my X1C and it still feels wrong to sell. I'd be better off keeping the AMS units and just having a mix of AMS 1 and AMS 2 units. As it stands I have 2 of each plus an HT and will add another in a month. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Hard to unload a useful printer for so little though. Resale is terrible. Nive printed two things since Jan 1 on my X1C and it still feels wrong to sell. I'd be better off keeping the AMS units and just having a mix of AMS 1 and AMS 2 units. As it stands I have 2 of each plus an HT and will add another in a month. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Saker13: I'm actually looking to get rid of the X1C. Mainly so I can justify another AMS2 or two and another AMS HT for the H2D. But, once I have the room, the H2C will probably weasel it's way into my setup...... Hard to unload a useful printer for so little though. Resale is terrible. Nive printed two things since Jan 1 on my X1C and it still feels wrong to sell. I'd be better off keeping the AMS units and just having a mix of AMS 1 and AMS 2 units. As it stands I have 2 of each plus an HT and will add another in a month. I planned to sell my Flashforge 5M Pro when I bought the P2S. It looks like used prices are between $100-$175 around me. As irritating as that machine can be….it is capable of making good parts when setup and tuned properly. Right ow I’ve got it unplugged sitting on the floor deciding what to do with it. I’m leaning towards just keeping it for a backup to the backup lol. Otherwise I’ll buy some filament with whatever I can get out of it. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By fox2008:I planned to sell my Flashforge 5M Pro when I bought the P2S. It looks like used prices are between $100-$175 around me. As irritating as that machine can be….it is capable of making good parts when setup and tuned properly. Right ow I’ve got it unplugged sitting on the floor deciding what to do with it. I’m leaning towards just keeping it for a backup to the backup lol. Otherwise I’ll buy some filament with whatever I can get out of it. Print more desiccant holders with it.
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Am I wasting drying hours on my ASA running it for 12 hours in my AMSPro 2 at 65℃? I didn’t realize (not sure why I didn’t notice really) that it should be dried at 80 or 90. I’m trying to make some signs that will sit in full sun. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Thanks. For now I'm going to hold off on printing with it while I get my dryer into the budget. I was holding out for the Pi 4 at $180 but now waiting to get the $260 for the Sunlu E2. So many other things I'm buying now that isn't a priority. I did notice I could dry with my printer and the heatbed, but haven't tried that since I have the AMS 2. I also had my need for an UPS highlighted. Last night my Tesla system dropped and we went back on grid during a print. I tried to "resume" the print, but it didn't align and left a gap. It was technically a continuation, but it didn't work so I'm having to reprint the main part that failed. 
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Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Thanks. For now I'm going to hold off on printing with it while I get my dryer into the budget. I was holding out for the Pi 4 at $180 but now waiting to get the $260 for the Sunlu E2. So many other things I'm buying now that isn't a priority. I did notice I could dry with my printer and the heatbed, but haven't tried that since I have the AMS 2.  
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Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: Thanks. For now I'm going to hold off on printing with it while I get my dryer into the budget. I was holding out for the Pi 4 at $180 but now waiting to get the $260 for the Sunlu E2. So many other things I'm buying now that isn't a priority. I did notice I could dry with my printer and the heatbed, but haven't tried that since I have the AMS 2. I also had my need for an UPS highlighted. Last night my Tesla system dropped and we went back on grid during a print. I tried to "resume" the print, but it didn't align and left a gap. It was technically a continuation, but it didn't work so I'm having to reprint the main part that failed. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/2026-04-13_223722.jpg The AMS HT is $139 with free shipping at Bambu Labs. Heats to 85°, I have no problem printing PA6CF after drying it for 12 hours in the HT, though I had to give it a second 12 hour cycle when the humidity was still above 10%. Roger that on a backup power supply. I have a whole house generator and last month the printer was running when it came online. The printer did not like that at all so I bought a small APC UPS (600 VA). It only has to run the printer for 10 seconds or so until the gen comes online. But we have frequent power blinks also and the UPS has a surge protector. |
Denial is such a funny thing. My filament isn't wet. I dried it for 12 hours and stored it in cereal boxes with desiccant and even a spool desiccant holder in the spool. This is after these two failed using the same filament.   I'm trying again with black this time. All Bambu PETG. I really need to make room in my budget for a dedicated dryer. I saw in the notes where I should be able to dry and print at the same time with my AMS 2, but clearly it isn't that great at drying. I am near the latter half of the spool, maybe it just didn't cook long enough for the middle to try. Should I expect to need to dry at about 50% on the spool? |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
I finally got a dedicated dryer! My mom was asking what to get for my birthday that I would actually use and the dryer is one of the things I mentioned. It was also one of the pricier ones, but she got it! No need to make room in the budget for it now. :) I do have to make room at my print station though. Filament is taking up so much of the counter space. I've got to get storage figured out on this one. PETG on left and ASA on the right. I love being able to do different temps AND still be able to print things.  I will still want the Sunlu E2 but that is when I get into upper end filaments that 85°C won't cover. Question: If PETG starts to soften at 80°C, do I need to print desiccant spool holders in ABS/ASA for those or are they safe to leave PETG for them? I'd be mildly concerned the threads would weld shut. I don't know that it would be a real problem, as long as the holders don't actually melt and deform so much they warp into the way of function in the AMS. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: I finally got a dedicated dryer! My mom was asking what to get for my birthday that I would actually use and the dryer is one of the things I mentioned. It was also one of the pricier ones, but she got it! No need to make room in the budget for it now. :) I do have to make room at my print station though. Filament is taking up so much of the counter space. I've got to get storage figured out on this one. PETG on left and ASA on the right. I love being able to do different temps AND still be able to print things. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/IMG_2315_20260430.jpeg I will still want the Sunlu E2 but that is when I get into upper end filaments that 85°C won't cover. Question: If PETG starts to soften at 80°C, do I need to print desiccant spool holders in ABS/ASA for those or are they safe to leave PETG for them? I'd be mildly concerned the threads would weld shut. I don't know that it would be a real problem, as long as the holders don't actually melt and deform so much they warp into the way of function in the AMS. You'll want to make them out of ABS at a minimum. |
How do I go about taking an image and making it something that can be printed? Here is something I had AI draw up for me and is almost exactly what I'm looking for. This allows me to add text to the blank area and mount the signs to my trellises.  Click for full size of the same image. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Originally Posted By turtle2472: How do I go about taking an image and making it something that can be printed? Here is something I had AI draw up for me and is almost exactly what I'm looking for. This allows me to add text to the blank area and mount the signs to my trellises. https://turtle2472.com/ar15/grapesign_20260513.png Click for full size of the same image. I am currently using Claude AI and Fusion MCP to have Claude generate 3D models. It has been great so far. I only started using it this week. It honestly feels like cheating. I even have it check and verify that the design is 3D printer ready checking for broken solids. It can even give me recommendations on print specs and setting based on material and what printer I am using. Did I mention I feel like I am cheating. I haven't tested the printing part yet. |
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Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly: I am currently using Claude AI and Fusion MCP to have Claude generate 3D models. It has been great so far. I only started using it this week. It honestly feels like cheating. I even have it check and verify that the design is 3D printer ready checking for broken solids. It can even give me recommendations on print specs and setting based on material and what printer I am using. Did I mention I feel like I am cheating. I haven't tested the printing part yet. |
Who, What, Where? Call Sign, Snowball
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 Bambu Lab: I'm reposting your code & I dare you to sue me. Newsworthy. He's basically forcing bambu's hand over orcaslicer. |
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Originally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly:I am currently using Claude AI and Fusion MCP to have Claude generate 3D models. It has been great so far. I only started using it this week. It honestly feels like cheating. I even have it check and verify that the design is 3D printer ready checking for broken solids. It can even give me recommendations on print specs and setting based on material and what printer I am using. Did I mention I feel like I am cheating. I haven't tested the printing part yet. Originally Posted By Saker13: Is Claude like Chat GPT, where it is free for a certain amount of queries in a certain amount of time? Or is it subscription only? I generated this with ChatGPT but the exports to stl and 3mf were not the same image. Now I’m going to have to look at Claude. ChatGPT is paid for by work and they are going to switch me to Claude here soon. This could work out really well for me. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
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Yes Claude works similar to Chatgpt but before I added Fusion MCP I was able to generate stp files in Claude and then open them in Fusion. It was back and forth lots of revisions but worked. Now with Fusion MCP it can generate and open the file directly in Fusion. If you use Fusion MCP you have to open Fusion first and have it completely running before using Claude Desktop because Claude checks to see if Fusion is running. One thing it does that I don't like it can overload the editable Project file limit. I usually just keep mine empty and open from folder on PC. My first Claude AI Fusion Project https://imgur.com/axy1Pca https://imgur.com/BnvHfeE https://imgur.com/CQO0ESg What I was working on tonight. That took awhile because getting the correct specs off the internet is crazy. Everyone has their own version of what AN Fittings are suppose to be listed as and the specs have changed over the years plus having similar parts that have a different spec. That is a -12 AN ORB port. I am having Claude generate a plugin to install in Fusion so all I have to do is select a face and a center point and it will put whatever size AN port I want in an object. I can use it then to create custom parts and fitting as well. https://imgur.com/7I00gQC |
The thread for new to 3D printing to ask questions (Page 5 of 7)
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