Posted: 3/22/2026 3:50:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheLASwamp][Edited]
|
Hi guys. I'm repairing a generator for a colleague. I've never heard of this brand before. I believe it has a Honda clone engine. The problem is that I believe I am going to have to replace the AVR. The generator is working but it's making very low voltage. It starts strong but then badly sags. I suspect a bad AVR. It may have been bad from the factory. Word is it never did function correctly. This is the generator:  This is the cover removed from the alternator. I am trying to locate the AVR but nothing I see in there looks like what I associate with an AVR, i.e., the half-moon shaped piece usually on the edge of the housing. There's a small block-looking part at the 10:00 position but that does not look like the AVR part that I've seen on Google for this model.  Can you guys ID the AVR, if you see one in there? Is it possible that the AVR is located elsewhere on the generator? I'm a bit stumped. Thanks guys! |
|
Originally Posted By TargetTime: I'm not a pro and only know what I've worked on in the past. AVR seems to be missing. What is connected at the white plug in your photo? That's usually where the AVR plugs into. Where do the wire of that plug lead to? |
|
Searching with AI, that model doesn't use an AVR. It use a capacitor to initiate electricity. If the AI is to be believed, search for a capacitor under a metal cover. Ive replaced a capacitor on a generator in the past. You'll need a meter that measures in pico ferrets to determine if the capacitor is good or not. Grainger sells capacitors for under $20 if that's the issue. |
|
Originally Posted By TargetTime: Searching with AI, that model doesn't use an AVR. It use a capacitor to initiate electricity. If the AI is to be believed, search for a capacitor under a metal cover. Ive replaced a capacitor on a generator in the past. You'll need a meter that measures in pico ferrets to determine if the capacitor is good or not. Grainger sells capacitors for under $20 if that's the issue. |
|
Originally Posted By zeekh: What is an AVR? I think I know what's going on. Apparently, this particular model came with either an AVR or a capacitor, depending on the unit run. I had to laugh when I read that. I didn't think generators of a 2019 vintage were still using caps. You can see that it has a place for an AVR on the head even though there's nothing there. An AVR, if so equipped, would mount at the 6:00 to 9:00 position. But you can tell this one is not wired for one. Normally, the cap would be inside of the head cover. I believe this unit uses a 22-26uf cap. However, I suspect it's located behind the outlet panel. I didn't have a chance to pull the panel this evening to check. I'll try to make a run at it when I get home from work tomorrow. I'll snap some pics in case someone else has an issue with a cap that's not mounted inside of the head and has to go hunting for it. I don't know much about the history of this unit but what might have happened was that it was overloaded when it was new which would have burned out or damaged the capacitor. Either that, or the cap was bad from the start. I'll be able to tell when I see it and put a meter on it. The unit seems like a nice generator and my colleague was planning to put it on the curb. I told him to let me look at it first and see if I could get it working. It doesn't have many hours on it and is, otherwise, in pretty good shape. It needs a few odds and ends, like a carb cleaning and fresh oil. Everything else looks good. It even has an electric start, although the battery looks like it's ready for the recycle bin. We'll see what I find when I disassemble the outlet panel. |
|
Originally Posted By TargetTime: In your photo you'll also notice a mounting location for brushes in the 12 o'clock position yet there are no brushes. If it has a capacitor you'll find it near the outlets. |
|
Have you tried using a corded drill plugged in to excite the windings? Also other methods listed in this thread. https://opeforum.com/threads/generator-issue.6937/ |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
|
Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Have you tried using a corded drill plugged in to excite the windings? Also other methods listed in this thread. https://opeforum.com/threads/generator-issue.6937/ I did find the cap, by the way. It was on the inside of the outlet panel. I removed it and put it on a DMM. It is rated at 24uf. It read at 23.5uf. That was unexpected. Question: If a cap reads at or near it's rated uf, can it still be bad? As in, could it still sag under load? Anyone know if that's possible? I don't want to order a new one if the one that's in there is good. That will mean it's something else causing the voltage sag. And that makes things a bit more complicated. |
 Electricity Generator Brushless Alternator Testing - Generator with a capacitor. |
| Based on what I have read, I still think the problem is with the capacitor. From what the owner told me, the generator will output power, at least for a short time, after it is started. However, the voltage will begin to sag as everything heats up. A cap that is failing, but not yet completely failed, will act that way from what I understand. If the generator was producing no power at all, it would be more obvious. A completely failed cap would also give a much lower uf reading on a DMM. A failing cap would be less obvious using a DMM. I ordered a new cap to test out at least to rule it out as part of the problem, if nothing else. But I'm confident the cap is probably where the issue is. |
|
Originally Posted By SpankMonkey: I had a old unit without a AVR. The brushes would hang up and not ride on the rotor correctly. I took the brushes off and cleaned out the brush channels and never had a problem again. I also replaced the brushes for good measure. They were dirt cheap. |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I've not been able to get the engine started. It's not making spark. I've tested with a known, good plug. The crankcase is full of oil, so unless the oil sensor is bad, it shouldn't be that. It has an electric start but also a pull start. It may need a battery to be able to start and I don't have one in it now. If nothing works, I will probably have to replace the ignition coil. The generator is not that old and looks like it's been stored properly, so the coil should be good. But you never know. It's probably a kill switch somewhere that's not allowing spark. I'm hoping it's not too difficult to sus out. You probably already know this but….. if you unplug the kill side of the coil it will bypass any safety switches to allow testing to see if the coil is good or not. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
|
Originally Posted By ColtRifle: You probably already know this but .. if you unplug the kill side of the coil it will bypass any safety switches to allow testing to see if the coil is good or not. |
|
Okay, I replaced the ignition coil. I now have spark. However, the engine still will not start. I am wondering if I have a carb issue. I was unable to remove the emulsion tube for inspection. I was stuck in the housing. If you know Honda carbs, the emulsion tube has those tiny holes on the sides. I now wonder if I have some obstructions there. I guess it could cause enough of a blockage that the engine would not start? This project has given me some fits. I feel like I'm close to having it done if I could just figure out why it won't start. |
|
Give it a half second shot of starting fluid. See if the engine will pop. You spray it in through the carb. If the engine starts and dies replace the carb. They are 20 bucks on amazon. A good shot of starting fluid should get it to run for a few seconds. Plug a light in before you check. If the light comes on you have power. |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Okay, I replaced the ignition coil. I now have spark. However, the engine still will not start. I am wondering if I have a carb issue. I was unable to remove the emulsion tube for inspection. I was stuck in the housing. If you know Honda carbs, the emulsion tube has those tiny holes on the sides. I now wonder if I have some obstructions there. I guess it could cause enough of a blockage that the engine would not start? This project has given me some fits. I feel like I'm close to having it done if I could just figure out why it won't start. I can guarantee it's the carb. Honda carbs MUST be drained even when run dry. [most have a small drain screw at the bottom side of the bowl to do so] |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...