Printed a y-splitter to manage a non-AMS spool.


Also threw together a bucket, dowel, and extra temp/humidity gauge on the bucket to monitor active drying whilst printing.


That's a Nesco brand dehydrator top set to 160 degrees. The hygrometer shows a consistent 98deg/10%hum after sitting for a couple hours. Appears to actively dry Bambu Nylon filament well enough to print. I had to add extra pressure release holes-and popping the pivot dowel loose helped too-so the dehydrator wouldn't overheat and turn itself off.

Did one last iteration of a portable vertical antenna loading coil to see how it would come out.  Just went for the maximum amount of potential inductance with a reasonable form factor.
This one is about 3" in diameter & a foot long  (75mm x 315mm).  It has the same clamp on tripod & thumb screw contact ring for adjustment as the earlier version(s).  Most of the winding core is hollow to save material & print time.

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It uses a bit over 62' of 16 awg tinned copper buss wire, wrapped 80 times on 255mm of the grooved form.  There is a 3/8-24 thread extension on the top and a SO239 UHF connector on the bottom.

Source & files on printables:   https://www.printables.com/model/881007-portable-vertical-antenna-loading-coil-123-uh

You should find that with each setting of the coil it will give you a wider bandwidth per setting. Meaning you will have to move the wiper less as you move up and down the band on the same band. Some of the best mobile screwdriver antennas have 5 or 6 inch diameter coils.

Thanks for the insight.  I'm thinking of pulling the screwdriver build apart & doing a gear drive for the M6 screw, moving a sliding contact rather than the coil. It would be shorter & more stable.

Look up egg beater capacitance hat to shorten element.

Designed and printed 16 feet for our deck furniture. The legs would fall into the gaps between the boards.

Printed in black Numakers PETG, on an X1C.

Started printing the 4th one of these.



It was created by a member here he posted a picture of a 1/4 cutout shotgun shell that I can't wait until it gets posted.

Here are all the current files.

https://www.thingiverse.com/minerburns/designs

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Been printing parts for an automated case sorter.

It's gonna be awhile before it's done with this single ender clone.  

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Storage tray for my cheap HF metric tap set. It’s better than the blister pack they came in but I’m annoyed at how inefficient the design is. I’m not willing to waste more filament on rev A though

epic!!!i wantd one for so long then they came out and i lost interest....  any of these (or remixs) that are not just direct blowback?

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Decided to try the ADE rd pro optics planet had for $99..  short of getting another holosun 507k for $310 its the only cheaper option with a circle dot.  Only one problem tho.  The buttons stick out and during racking are super easy to accidentally push - leading to lots of fun cycling through options to get back.  So i built a hood with a button recess - then i shortened it to just a button recess tray.. which seems to be a good option so far.  

Just the regular AWCY build. It was my grail 3D printed gun. When I saw it was 3D printed that's what got me to dive into 3D printing, and now I have a side gig too.

I stumbled upon a guy at work that had spare parts and got all them for $100. Came with stripped bolt and trigger group and a few other small parts. Had to buy the rest. Still kinda an expensive build, but it's pretty awesome. I'm having ejection issues, but I think it's due to the +125% spring. I bought a new spring I'm hoping isn't +125% to try, but haven't gotten around to punching the roll pin out and replacing the spring yet.

I'm gonna need details on the STLs for this.

It's not my design.  Guy on YouTube SJSeth designed it and made a wonderfully detailed video series.

There's a github page for the whole project as well as a pretty active discord.

Just type in CS 7.1 sorter on YouTube search and you'll find it

I'll start another thread on my build in the reloading forum once I've finished printing parts.

I’m working on this thing. I’ve only had my printer since Friday

https://makerworld.com/en/models/468623#profileId-377799

Fun print in place model.

Picked up my 1st 3D printer 3 weeks ago. I'm still learning but my double stack 1911 frame just got done today.
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Design and 3-D printed a laptop stand for my microscope.

Printables Link

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Edit: Better picture and added link to files.
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I keep on saying to myself - just one more replacement part for my rebuild/upgrade effort on the printer.

I just re-printed in a different color my y-cable connector to match the weave of fiber sleeve.
I understand that there is a set bonus factor if you have the right color combination.  ;)

This should be the last part I need to assemble, and the wrap up is verifying all of the cable runs are
hooked correctly.  Ok, maybe there might be a few parts to assemble; re-assemble during the tuning process.

The cable clips I posted above for the printer worked; but would work better using ASA.

I have the ASA, I just need to "build" a box to hold the printer in while I try my hand at ASA printing.

I just printed my first print off a rebuilt Prusa MK III -> MK IV
It was just the simple Prusa key chain - dog tag found on the
USB stick that came with the upgrade parts.

When I was doing the final checkout and had the Calibration fail.
At that point I remembered to put the built plate on the
printer.  Looks like newer firmware was a bit more picky and could
tell that the thermal mass was off...or the issue could be I did install
the hot end sock.

The re-sell value on the broken MK III (No + or S) - was not that high, and
I figured it would be "effective" to upgrade it to current due to age
of the hardware.

I guess my print farm is growing with 2 MK IV and one MK IIIS+.

I just saw the videos on it.

OMG that thing is awsome. Sorts by headstamp too

I disassembled the earlier screwdriver antenna build & used the components to assemble a motorized contact slider for the base loading coil.  The new build uses gears to connect the 12v gearmotor & screw.   The gears were done in OpenSCAD, imported into Fusion 360 as mesh bodies, then converted & edited.

The contact carrier has an embedded M6 nut that rides up and down on the screw.  The 400mm allthread screw is constrained by 608 bearings at the top & bottom of the guide. A cap on the screw keeps it from passing through the top bearing. The guide was printed in two parts & joined with dowels.  

A tripod base will be attached, but is not in the pictures below.

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The contact is run from the top down & back up a bit. Mute or turn audio down to avoid listening to the motor whine.
 

Put some bypass caps across the motor connection to kill the noise.

This isn't GD. Rat

Oh I have got to make a few of these and especially a shotgun shell.  My sorta adopted son has gotten into trap shooting in a big way competing all over the USA and he would love a shotgun shell like these!

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Detachable corner mount for a cargo tray im building.  

Banana for scale

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That's a spicy banana. If/when I get a printer I want to do that one

Deets on the nanner?!

ETA, never mind, I found it.  And I think I have 2 rolls of yellow pla+

Does anyone have a link to where I can download these?

My Dad would LOVE one.

whats the quickest, simplest, super useful, test  print/starter?  saw a layered glock build, seemed sensible, as you could replace parts when broken or mis printed?

goooooootcha, you post that deal on fosscad reddit?  

my current problem is add and little kids.  cant hardly do anytning, let alone well

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now THAT is how you lawn-dart!

Fin!

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That looks familiar! Are you printing it in PLA or something else? I did mine in a combination of cf-PETG, ASA, and PC.

Today I just printed the parts to build a Galileo 2 extruder for my Trident.

Did you print this using Hueforge?

I wish I could find the original post but I wasn't able to.   Here is the link to his Thingiverse account.   The shotgun shell has not been released.

https://www.thingiverse.com/minerburns/designs

Printed a micro lens housing for my thermal camera. Using a CO2 laser lens and some magnets.

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Decided that since i suck at lego maybe try my hand at Duplo..

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This is just for initial size and fitment verification so i can make the next ver which will have a follower.  Baseplate is on the printer now

Sharing some lessons learned for those looking into building an NT79 or it's variants.

I know there are "stronger" 37mm launchers out there but I won't be using them much and wanted the cool factor above bulletproof strength. Knowing the NT79 has some weaknesses, I built both these launchers using steel plates for reinforcements on the hinges and breach plate (SCS with files that were in the respective packs as noted below). All are sailing and can be searched by whatever I typed in "". I used the Lowe's pipe as recommended in the guide after realizing that the Home Depot pipe of the same diameter, won't work. All other parts were bought from Amazon using the specs on the guide. I did double up the springs on the ejector to help with sticky casings.

I printed the NT-79 ("Are We Cool Yet? Presents: DaFizzlez's NT79 37mm Signaling Device") using the "NT79 Reciver with krrawn scs reinforcements" receiver and stock parts from the "NT79 Reinforced Retro Remix". The stock from the reto remix is a must! I found drilling out the holes for the support tube helped. I used 5 minute epoxy on everything. Overture black PLA+ on a MK3 using the settings on the guide. I painted everything with Rust-Oleum primer and paint. When I went to assemble everything was tight and I need to remove paint at certain locations. I wouldn't paint again next time, prior to assembling. I've shot five commercially purchased "cracklers" and it functioned perfectly with zero FTF or other issues. No cracks anywhere are visible.

The "KRRAWNs MCRN Boarder remix" was printed as the pack comes with white Overture PLA+ on a MK3 using the settings on the guide. The MLOK covers are from Strike Industries. I learned from the previous build NOT to paint before assembling as the tolerances are tight and paint layers will cause issues. I used 5 minute epoxy on everything. This one was painted by hand using acrylic paint and I dyed/wet molded some leather I had on hand for the grip. I've shot two commercially purchased "cracklers" and it functioned perfectly with zero FTF or other issues. No cracks anywhere are visible.

Last but not least, the 37mm rounds I got from exotic ammo in a sampler pack, sucked! Three had the payload pop in the barrel. The crackle rounds in reusable Aluminum hulls worked perfect.

Cool to hear you're having success with it. I started an NT79 build but never finished it due to all the issues people were having with them failing, and then took the trigger out of it for a Hoffman build.

Yea I think the original design was full of flaws.  Once the reinforced receiver and two piece stock came out, the game changed for those not looking to shoot hot loads.

With a spring and follower....are these actually functional or not so much?

Thanks!