Posted: 6/1/2004 5:15:08 PM EDT
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I am filling out my paperwork for a CMP Garand. Which is better Springfield Armory or Harrington & Richardson? What is the differance? One more thing. Who do I make my check out to for team membership here? It's time I join. thanks for all the help. Davidlf |
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go over to this forum those guys will be able to tell you the ins and outs of Garands and CMP THE ARMORY --> M1 & M1A M1 & M1A |
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Get the H&R as they are not as plentiful as Springfields. I've got an International Harvester and a Springfield, I like them both. The IHC has been reparked, the Springfield has a nice worn battlefield finish. Garands are special guns, no gun collection should be without two or three. When the Korean imports hit the country in the late 80's I picked up a nice Springfield from the local gun store for $250. That was my first Garand. The wife got pissed and sold it on me when I was overseas. The two I have now I acquired in the last year or so. Get the H&R; you can always pick up a Springfield down the road.  Panzer Out  |
Springs were the original and have WW2 and post WW2 production. H&R were post WW2 production. As noted both will be rebuilds anyway so it won't make a huge difference. |
Wouldn't that depend on weather or not he gets a collector grade rifle or not? |
Collector grades are based more upon condition of rifle and not on matching original parts. |
I'd rather have a Garand that may have played a part in the "big" war, even if my 1943 Springfield is a rebuild and has Blue Sky Armory stamped on the barrel. Oh well, for $250 it was a hell of a deal even 12 years ago. As was my Blue Sky stamped 1943 Inland M1 Carbine I picked up for $179.99 way back when. The 1943 US&S M1911A1 is all original, however.  
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actually the opposite is true....collector grades are based on originality, not condition and they can't be classified as a "collector" grade unless they are in fact original. go to www.odcmp.com and read the descriptions in the rifle sales section. |
It was my understanding that anything even close to an original Garand is long gone and most are made with Danish parts. |
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Negative SA, they don't build any rifles, only inspect and repair as needed. The Danish rifles can be a mix of US and foreign parts. The US and Greek-returns are billed as all USGI except the stocks on the Greeks can be US or Greek. Just to get ya droolin....the Greek returns included some new, still-in-VCI-wrap rifles that are going to be auctioned off supposedly later this year. 
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Speaking of Garands... Does anyone have any tips on how to do a short inspection of a Garand? Every now and then I see a great priced Garand at a gun show but I'm not sure of what things to look for. I'm not talking about a authentic collector piece but rather a functional Garand that won't blow up when I fire it. Also is there a quick way to gauge the conditioin of the barrel? Thanks! |
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The Greek M1s they just got were apparently in poor shape, but the rack grade ones are going for just $250 (or was it $275? I just remember a "2" in there, somewhere). You can also hunt up ROK ball ammo on stripper clips for a reasonable price, though the bandoliers are just as likely to be restamped M193 bandoliers as anything else; the M1 is still in active service with ROK Army Reserve units, so they are still making M2 Ball for military use. |
Should be a rebuild date electropenciled on the foward right reciever leg. Along with the date should be a code to denote which arsenal did the rebuild. |
You can get genuine LC 69 M2 from the CMP. 920 rounds in boxes of 20 $192+ shipping. They have something like 20 million rounds that was delinked MG ammo(no difference) and the army has no more in their inventory, meaning this is the last of it... forever! |
is this in bandoleers and is it reloadable (boxer primed)? |
Not in bandoleers but excellent reloading brass(boxer primed). |
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couple brief inspection tips for Garands, more can be found at Battlerifles.com's M1 forum Check the receiver for repair / remanf welds - drop the hammer, remove the trigger assembly by pulling the rear of the trigger guard rearward and away from the stock, pull the stock off the action, and look at the inside of the reciever for such evidence. Remove the mainspring from the action, then raise and lower the action - the bolt / operating rod should freely move Open and Closed. Look for evidence of pitting and other corrosion on the bbl under the foregrips. Some can be found, just a good indicator of how sorely abused or restored a piece might be. Get a barrel / throat erosion gauge, learn how to use it. And a good understanding of the various stock and metal manf proof marks would help, especially when a dealer starts making extravagant claims re value. |