any folks familiar or worked on a 289? (Page 2 of 2)
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Yes, as long as your block is a 6 bolt. AOD swaps are very common. You’re going to need a specialized flex plate balanced for the 28 oz. Imbalance that matches up to the AOD torque converter. If memory serves me correctly, it’s a 351W flex plate. But NPD sells everything for swaps under their Mustang catalog. An AOD, AODE, and 4R70W are the common ford overdrive transmissions that will bolt up to a small block motor. They will all typically require having the driveshaft shortened and modifying the crossmember. In addition to the flexplate diameter, you will need to make sure you get the correct torque converter hole pattern.. The AOD is the simplest swap because it is all mechanical. It uses a throttle valve cable to regulate line pressure and whatnot. AOD is also the shittiest for performance. In stock form, the torque converter is completely locked in 3rd and 4th gear. Meaning you're hauling ass through 1st and 2nd, then when it shifts to 3rd, it loses all its spunk. You can buy a different converter for them that doesn't lock. That gives you more ass hauling, but costs you some drivability on the highway in 4th. The AODE is the electronically controlled version of the AOD, so no TV cable. You will need an aftermarket computer to control this. Or honestly, a couple light switches will let you close the circuits as you wish to get to all the gears. The 4R70W is the next iteration. It had better gear ratios than the AODE. You will want one that is attached to a V6 or a 5.0. The V6 are available in the 3.8L mustangs as well as the 4.2 trucks and work vans. The 5.0 combination was in the 1996 F150 and the explorers and mountaineers till the early 2000s. If you get a truck/van one, it supposedly has extra bands or clutches in it over the mustang one. The tailshaft housing is longer, too. You cannot use one that was attached to a 4.6 or 5.4 mod motor. It is also possible to put the gear sets from the 4R70W into the AOD so you get the better gear ratios without needing all the computers. And learn from my mistake. Even though the V6 transmission will bolt up to the V8 motor, you cannot use the V6 flexplate. It has the correct number of teeth, but that is when ford switched to metric bolts to hold it on the crankshaft. You will want one that uses freedom units for those bolts. There is also the redhedded stepchild E4OD transmission. Thats the one ford stuck behind the 351 in some applications like the lightening truck. It is not as popular and does not have the aftermarket support that the others have. In one of my cars, I have the 4R70W out of a 1998 plumber's work van so it had a real easy life. I'm running a lokar shifter that has the normal PRND21 as well as "sport mode" that lets you hold it in whatever gear you want and bump or paddle shift to a different gear. |
| I'm going to stick with what's in it now. I won't be making any long road trips in it. I have the camaro for that. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Striker: I'm going to stick with what's in it now. I won't be making any long road trips in it. I have the camaro for that. If the rear end is about a 3.00:1 or numerically lower, it'll cruise on the highway around 60-65MPH fine with no overdrive. What you gotta watch out for is somebody stuck a set of 4.11 gears in it cause they heard that was the thing to do.  If you can get the transmission into neutral, you can count the gear ratio without having to crank the motor.
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Originally Posted By mustb123: While I run a roller motor and an AOD, it’s because the transmission was a known good one and it was free. I recommend the 4f70w. It’s similar to the AOD, but stronger and better gear ratios in 1st & 2nd. Anyway, in my 1966 Mustang, I run a 2003 or so roller 302ish motor with a Crane cam and some old 60’s junk bolted to it. The AOD, I pulled out of a 1988 T-Bird. I rebuilt a little with a line mod, hardened input shaft, oversized servos, 3,200 rpm converter and some valve body work. With the 9” rear and 3.89 gears, it moves the 2,800 pound mustang around ok. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/k_lone_engine_004-3825293.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/IMG_0114-3825294.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/tccoa_dragway-3825295.jpg I think I’ve commented on your old Cal-Custom valve covers in a post you made some time back. Those were my very first aftermarket purchase I ever made when I got my Fairlane. I did cut the center of the fins down and mounted a set of Fairlane 289 emblems in them. I recently found them again after our move 5 years ago. Now I just need to find a blank space on my wall so I can hang them back up again. Oh, found a pic of one. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: I think I’ve commented on your old Cal-Custom valve covers in a post you made some time back. Those were my very first aftermarket purchase I ever made when I got my Fairlane. I did cut the center of the fins down and mounted a set of Fairlane 289 emblems in them. I recently found them again after our move 5 years ago. Now I just need to find a blank space on my wall so I can hang them back up again. Oh, found a pic of one. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32016/IMG_5207_jpeg-3825480.JPG Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By mustb123: While I run a roller motor and an AOD, it’s because the transmission was a known good one and it was free. I recommend the 4f70w. It’s similar to the AOD, but stronger and better gear ratios in 1st & 2nd. Anyway, in my 1966 Mustang, I run a 2003 or so roller 302ish motor with a Crane cam and some old 60’s junk bolted to it. The AOD, I pulled out of a 1988 T-Bird. I rebuilt a little with a line mod, hardened input shaft, oversized servos, 3,200 rpm converter and some valve body work. With the 9” rear and 3.89 gears, it moves the 2,800 pound mustang around ok. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/k_lone_engine_004-3825293.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/IMG_0114-3825294.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/126943/tccoa_dragway-3825295.jpg I think I’ve commented on your old Cal-Custom valve covers in a post you made some time back. Those were my very first aftermarket purchase I ever made when I got my Fairlane. I did cut the center of the fins down and mounted a set of Fairlane 289 emblems in them. I recently found them again after our move 5 years ago. Now I just need to find a blank space on my wall so I can hang them back up again. Oh, found a pic of one. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32016/IMG_5207_jpeg-3825480.JPG Yup, those are cool. That’s part of running old cars, you can make it your own. I bought this just to hang on the wall, I doubt I would ever run it. 
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10/22/14 I stand with Canada
| Do you have the space plate that mounts to the back of the engine between the engine and transmission? Also very early 289's are a 5 bolt bellhousing be not the standard 6 bolt Ford small block pattern. Are the alignment dowels installed ? There are 2 balance weights for the flex pate. Yours should be 28.2 ounces aka the early version. Also there are 157 tooth flywheels for C-4 and 164 for a C-6 and later AODs of various flavors. Also the manual trans starter on an old Ford has a longer nose. |
RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA,Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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Originally Posted By whiskerz: Do you have the space plate that mounts to the back of the engine between the engine and transmission? Also very early 289's are a 5 bolt bellhousing be not the standard 6 bolt Ford small block pattern. Are the alignment dowels installed ? There are 2 balance weights for the flex pate. Yours should be 28.2 ounces aka the early version. Also there are 157 tooth flywheels for C-4 and 164 for a C-6 and later AODs of various flavors. Also the manual trans starter on an old Ford has a longer nose. I ordered a 164 tooth flex plate..he was running a 158 and chewing it up. The info regarding which flex plate to use is all over the map. Some sites say 158 for a 289. Other sites say 164.. I have a referb starter and 158 tooth flex plate that came with the car. Someone remind me why I don't like fords.. 
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By giantpune: At least you don't need to shim the starter. And you don't need to worry about the distributor hitting the firewall. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.