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5/29/2014 5:37:38 PM EDT
so i'm doing my fence soon and i have two obvious options. i can either buy the pre-built 8ft panels from lowes/home depot or buy all the material myself and do each individual slat.






it's about 40ft of fence or so with (7) 4x4 posts looks like this:
















i like the idea of doing each slat individually because that way if the ground takes a drop i can leave some slats long, because i notice a lot of people who buy the pre-built fences have some pretty big gaps under them when the ground takes a bit of a drop.







the pre built portions i think are $42 for an 8ft section so its pretty cheap, how much more expensive would it be for doing it individually?










thanks for the help!
5/29/2014 5:47:04 PM EDT
[#1]
IIRC, the last time I checked, you can get the pre-made panels for the same cost as the materials to make it yourself.



The benefit to making it yourself, is that you can fit to the fencing to your location.
5/29/2014 5:47:12 PM EDT
[#2]
Build it yourself and use good materials. That way you get the fence you want instead of the fence they sell you. Also use cedar for the pickets, pine warps too easily. When you do your bottom board to nail the pickets to, use 2x6 instead of 2x4's. All your wood should be treated, cedar doesn't need to be.
5/29/2014 5:49:51 PM EDT
[#3]

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Quoted:


Build it yourself and use good materials. That way you get the fence you want instead of the fence they sell you. Also use cedar for the pickets, pine warps too easily. When you do your bottom board to nail the pickets to, use 2x6 instead of 2x4's. All your wood should be treated, cedar doesn't need to be.

View Quote
i would like cedar instead of using what i was planning (just some pressure treated slats), but the fence literally needs to be the same design as in the picture and i didn't see any cedar pickets that looked like that.. heck i don't know if i saw any at all at lowes or home depot.

 









any idea how much a fencing company would charge vs doing it myself?
5/29/2014 5:49:54 PM EDT
[#4]
I can't imagine for that price that this section of fence would last very long.  I built my on at my old house about ten years ago, and at the time, not including the price of the nails, was $76 per 20 feet.  This was treated lumber, using 2x4's for stringers and cypress dogears.  I say if you plan on keeping that home for any length of time, spend the money and use good materials.  I'd also suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, as well.
5/29/2014 5:54:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Damnit, I was hoping this was a saber vs. epee thread.
5/29/2014 5:56:32 PM EDT
[#6]

Quote History
Quoted:


I can't imagine for that price that this section of fence would last very long.  I built my on at my old house about ten years ago, and at the time, not including the price of the nails, was $76 per 20 feet.  This was treated lumber, using 2x4's for stringers and cypress dogears.  I say if you plan on keeping that home for any length of time, spend the money and use good materials.  I'd also suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, as well.
View Quote
it's built somewhat well. you can tell its "economical". the strings instead of 2x4's are 2x3's. it's all pressure treated lumber and would come out to like $90 or so for 20ft.

 



this is my first home, a somewhat small townhouse. i will be here for a bit but once me and the gf move on to getting married and one day have a kid we might want an actual house.
5/29/2014 5:56:56 PM EDT
[#7]

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Quoted:


Damnit, I was hoping this was a saber vs. epee thread.
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saber's are much cooler.

 
5/29/2014 6:12:15 PM EDT
[#8]
it's hard to tell from your photo but they look like what Lowe's carries. Look for 6' - 1x6's", cedar. Not sure about where you live but usually you can figure the amount of someone else doing it by seeing how much the material cost and then doubling that.
5/29/2014 6:12:22 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:
it's built somewhat well. you can tell its "economical". the strings instead of 2x4's are 2x3's. it's all pressure treated lumber and would come out to like $90 or so for 20ft.    

this is my first home, a somewhat small townhouse. i will be here for a bit but once me and the gf move on to getting married and one day have a kid we might want an actual house.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I can't imagine for that price that this section of fence would last very long.  I built my on at my old house about ten years ago, and at the time, not including the price of the nails, was $76 per 20 feet.  This was treated lumber, using 2x4's for stringers and cypress dogears.  I say if you plan on keeping that home for any length of time, spend the money and use good materials.  I'd also suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, as well.
it's built somewhat well. you can tell its "economical". the strings instead of 2x4's are 2x3's. it's all pressure treated lumber and would come out to like $90 or so for 20ft.    

this is my first home, a somewhat small townhouse. i will be here for a bit but once me and the gf move on to getting married and one day have a kid we might want an actual house.

If it's treated and you think you'll be out of there in five or so years, the prebuilt may be okay.  It's probably fastened together with nail guns, and as a result you'll have some popping out from time to time when the sun starts hitting the fence.  You can always replace these with screws as they start popping out, though.  I'd still run the numbers on materials to hand build it, though, especially since you have a relatively small area to fence.  The hand built fence, especially if you do a good job building it and stain it afterwards, could at to the resale when you do decide to sell.
5/29/2014 6:14:53 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
it's built somewhat well. you can tell its "economical". the strings instead of 2x4's are 2x3's. it's all pressure treated lumber and would come out to like $90 or so for 20ft.    

this is my first home, a somewhat small townhouse. i will be here for a bit but once me and the gf move on to getting married and one day have a kid we might want an actual house.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I can't imagine for that price that this section of fence would last very long.  I built my on at my old house about ten years ago, and at the time, not including the price of the nails, was $76 per 20 feet.  This was treated lumber, using 2x4's for stringers and cypress dogears.  I say if you plan on keeping that home for any length of time, spend the money and use good materials.  I'd also suggest using galvanized screws instead of nails, as well.
it's built somewhat well. you can tell its "economical". the strings instead of 2x4's are 2x3's. it's all pressure treated lumber and would come out to like $90 or so for 20ft.    

this is my first home, a somewhat small townhouse. i will be here for a bit but once me and the gf move on to getting married and one day have a kid we might want an actual house.


When I moved into my house 13 years ago, I had a fence installed on the cheap.  I sprung for metal posts and hardware, so to get the price down, they used 2x3 non treated stringers and non treated pine pickets.  After 13 years, most of the stringers are rotten and about 1/4 of the pickets are rotten in places.  Now, i live in TX where it's fairly dry and I did treat the fence every few years.   My point is that even the cheapest wood fence can last quite a while.   Plus, since I had them install metal posts, it's pretty easy to replace myself.

As for prefab panels verses nail up, either is fine, but pre-made panels work best  if your land is level.  If not, it's better to nail it up yourself so you can follow the contour of the land.   If you plan on leaving within 8 years, go cheap and seal it every few years.  Over 8 years, spring for pressure treated or cedar.






5/29/2014 6:42:26 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
saber's are much cooler.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Damnit, I was hoping this was a saber vs. epee thread.
saber's are much cooler.  


This. But I thought he was selling stolen property.
5/29/2014 6:48:22 PM EDT
[#12]
Do it yourself. Square head screws and don't forget the extra bits.
5/29/2014 6:51:47 PM EDT
[#13]
Tear that fencing off and don't replace it.. At least not with what was there, must be really dark in that "yard" and in the adjacent rooms. Let there be light.
5/29/2014 6:51:50 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
i would like cedar instead of using what i was planning (just some pressure treated slats), but the fence literally needs to be the same design as in the picture and i didn't see any cedar pickets that looked like that.. heck i don't know if i saw any at all at lowes or home depot.    



any idea how much a fencing company would charge vs doing it myself?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Build it yourself and use good materials. That way you get the fence you want instead of the fence they sell you. Also use cedar for the pickets, pine warps too easily. When you do your bottom board to nail the pickets to, use 2x6 instead of 2x4's. All your wood should be treated, cedar doesn't need to be.
i would like cedar instead of using what i was planning (just some pressure treated slats), but the fence literally needs to be the same design as in the picture and i didn't see any cedar pickets that looked like that.. heck i don't know if i saw any at all at lowes or home depot.    



any idea how much a fencing company would charge vs doing it myself?


Around here quality fence companies are charging around $15 per linear foot
5/29/2014 7:09:42 PM EDT
[#15]

Quote History
Quoted:


Tear that fencing off and don't replace it.. At least not with what was there, must be really dark in that "yard" and in the adjacent rooms. Let there be light.
View Quote
HOA would shit a brick. has to go back up the same as it was. they have a specific stain for it and everything. it's not even a yard its a courtyard.

 



we have a nice grill out there some plants and a nice table and umbrella.
5/29/2014 7:20:24 PM EDT
[#16]
The slat-by-slat method looks a lot better. Put up the posts first, nail metal hanger brackets to the posts, and then nail the 2x4 horizontals to the brackets (between the posts). Then nail the 1x6 boards to the horizontals, trimming each board to follow the slope of the ground. Finally, put a 1x4 cap board along the top (I notice your picture doesn't have this). I fenced my back yard this way 12 years ago and it still looks good.
5/29/2014 7:38:46 PM EDT
[#17]
free advice- use galvanized screws
5/29/2014 7:46:03 PM EDT
[#18]

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Quoted:


free advice- use galvanized screws
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if i used screws i was planning stainless.

 
5/29/2014 7:56:52 PM EDT
[#19]
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free advice- use galvanized screws nails
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Also,

Slats from lowes or HD will cost you around $1.80 ea 40 ft of fence is between 80-100 slats. ($144-180)

You'll need a 4x post every 7 or so feet @ 9 bucks each. 8 posts in all if it was just 40 straight feet. ($72)

You'll need 2 8'treated 2x4 per span at $5 ea 14 total. ($70)

You'll also heed some hardware. (4 brackets per span at $2 ea 24 brackets = ($48) Nails roughly $30)

A bag of concrete per post. 2-3 ea, so $16-24

Bottom line is it cost roughly $10-12per foot to build, but if you know what you're doing, it'll look way better than a prefab section.

Thats if you do it yourself, have all the tools, and don't charge yourself for time.

Hire someone and it'll cost you a grand or so.
5/29/2014 8:00:34 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:
if i used screws i was planning stainless.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
free advice- use galvanized screws
if i used screws i was planning stainless.  



Do this an you can quadruple your cost on hardware and you may be picking up slats off the ground in a couple years.

better to go with galvys...
5/29/2014 8:02:18 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote History
Quoted:


Around here quality fence companies are charging around $15 per linear foot
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Build it yourself and use good materials. That way you get the fence you want instead of the fence they sell you. Also use cedar for the pickets, pine warps too easily. When you do your bottom board to nail the pickets to, use 2x6 instead of 2x4's. All your wood should be treated, cedar doesn't need to be.
i would like cedar instead of using what i was planning (just some pressure treated slats), but the fence literally needs to be the same design as in the picture and i didn't see any cedar pickets that looked like that.. heck i don't know if i saw any at all at lowes or home depot.    



any idea how much a fencing company would charge vs doing it myself?


Around here quality fence companies are charging around $15 per linear foot


How can they do this?

Are materials that much cheaper over there?


5/29/2014 8:09:51 PM EDT
[#22]

Quote History
Quoted:
Do this an you can quadruple your cost on hardware and you may be picking up slats off the ground in a couple years.



better to go with galvys...
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Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

free advice- use galvanized screws
if i used screws i was planning stainless.  






Do this an you can quadruple your cost on hardware and you may be picking up slats off the ground in a couple years.



better to go with galvys...
i was gonna use them because i have a cheap supplier, i.e my boss

 
5/29/2014 8:17:50 PM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
Damnit, I was hoping this was a saber vs. epee thread.
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i know right!