Posted: 2/9/2009 6:02:31 AM EDT
| Hey, I just built a 1911 but I have a problem. It seems that the barrel is very sticky in the slide but only when I apply some rearward pressure to the muzzle of the barrel and work the slide. This is preventing it from cycling. It cycles fine by hand, but I think when it cycles during firing the slide exerts rearward pressure during case extraction and it won't cycle. Any ideas ? |
|
Sounds like when the barrel cams down it's rubbing the lower portion of the barrel channel in the slide. Put some blue sharpie (Dychem) on the bottom of the barrel, left and right of the lower lugs and check it.
Could be a lot of things really. Could even be the opposite of the above scenario, that the barrel isn't camming down far enough. Dychem the top, the radial lugs, too and check. |
|
Quoted:
Sounds like when the barrel cams down it's rubbing the lower portion of the barrel channel in the slide. Put some blue sharpie (Dychem) on the bottom of the barrel, left and right of the lower lugs and check it. Could be a lot of things really. Could even be the opposite of the above scenario, that the barrel isn't camming down far enough. Dychem the top, the radial lugs, too and check. Roger that. Thanks. ETA, I see that the area at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock on the barrel (chamber area) is rubbing on the slide as the barrel sits flush on the frame, causing it to bind up. So, should I cut a relief on the barrel ? |
|
The "proper" way is the relieve the area in the slide. This is not an easy place to do that. I made a tool to reach down in the slide. Aluminum rod with a slit in it to hold emery cloth. If you have a round cobalt dremel bit you can relieve the area then go over with paper to smooth it out.
I've worked the barrel also. If it doesn't need much, you can remove a little from the barrel in the offending areas. Double check that this in fact the problem before removing metal. Probably just needs about .001-.002 removed. |