Posted: 8/3/2004 8:27:21 PM EDT
|
This is my first time posting here, but I've been a member for a while. Generally I can get the hang of mechanics pretty well, but my Series 80 has got me frustrated. How do I remove the Hammer strut pin (#20) ? I recently got some Wilson Combat parts to modify my pistol with. I've popped pin after pin out of this gun, but I can't get the hammer strut pin (#20) free. This is critical because I'm going to replace both the hammer (#18) and the beavertail safety (#22), and I want to use the stock hammer strut (#19) and hammer strut pin (#20). So, I need to just pop out this pin, switch hammers, and pop the pin back in. Is there a secret to this? I've tried to use a small punch to pop it out, just like I did with the other pins, but it didn't budge. http://helix.gatech.edu/Classes/ME4192/1998Q3/webs/Bulletproof2/gun1911part.gif (Hammer strut pin is part #20 in the diagram) If anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreaciated. Teflon_Tip |
|
If you lay it over something hard but not marring with a hole in it...for the pin to exit, it should come out. It may be just a tight fit, I'm not sure if it's peened on both sides, hindering it's removal. If it's peened, you have to overcome the displaced metal...a bigger hammer, tapping harder in increments. |
|
Anothergene- Thanks for the idea about something solid with a hole. I had been using a folded up bath towel, worked like a charm on the other pins, and had some give to it. I don't have my new beavertail safety yet, so I'm gonna wait till my dealer gets that before I take my baby back apart, but then I'll give that a try. If not, a couple of 1911 buffs work with my dealer, I'll take the part strait to them. Voodoo- Oh yeah, I should have been more specific. This baby was torn all the way down. Bare bones. I've used an Ed Brown Bench reference guide to take my .45 apart, so I know that there is nothing else in my way. The way the piece looks when I get it apart is like this. http://www.sightm1911.com/images/Tool03.jpg It's the curved piece on the far right, as you can see, nothing is impeding it's movement. But thanks for the help, I really do appreaciate you responses. Teflon_Tip P.S. When baby is well again, You'll have to look at the 1911 pics, I'll throw in some befores and a couple afters, as well as some mauled targets! |
| Sorry, but it has been awhile since I took mine down for the same reason as you. Used a book from the NRA and everything came apart with very little resistance. Course an AMT Hardballer probably has plenty less quality than your piece. Oh, good luck with the gun. |
| When I builtm 1911 clone I had to use a hammer/punch to instal that pin. Mine was an interference fit. I thnk your best bet was already mentioned, the hard surface with a hole. If you have an old hockey puck around (or even a new one) drill a hole in it and use that. |
Kiss your mother with that mouth, do ya??? 
|
|
Brownell's sells a Gunsmith's Block made out of a Nylon material. Inexpensive, durable, and you can beat the pins on it without marring any surface. There are holes drilled in the block so you can punch the pin out and find it underneath when you pick it up. For $20 it's worth it to have. |
|
Great news everybody! Got the pin out! I just had the pistol apart again yesterday (Finally got my beavertail safety in!!!) and I put the hammer W/strut on a vise covered in an old tee-shirt. Pop goes the pin. Used a small punch, something like a 1/16th inch and a tack hammer. Put the new hammer and strut together, and re-assembled the pistol. IT IS DONE. Thanks again for all the help guys, expect pics very, very soon. Teflon_Tip |