Posted: 5/24/2006 1:26:47 PM EDT
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OK, I have a slight problem and hopefuly you guys can help me fix it! One of my 1911's is a Kimber CDP (with the dreaded EE). I just put in a variable power 18# Wolff recoil spring and started shooting. Here is the problem: When I do mag changes and hit the slide release, the gun will not go into battery. It will slide forwad about 30% of the way, but the first round will not load properly. If I hand cycle it, no problems. Only when I try to use the slide stop/release does it jam. One thought that I had is to switch to a 22# RS, but Im not sure if the problem will ifx that easy... Most of my shooting is done with 230 grain FMJ's from HSM. I picked up 3000 rounds from HSM at the last gun show and they are awesome! |
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I'm no expert but just a thought... In my CCW class that I recently took the instructor said that the recoil springs will have the most "spring back" power when they are fully compressed. That is to say that there is exponentially more power gained by pulling the slide back just that tiny bit more from the slide stop position to fully compressed. So according to him the behavior you describe is exactly what to expect. However I must say that my GLOCK 23 has so far always been able to go into battery from the slide stop position and so has my new Kimber Compact (with the stock spring) the few times that I did it during its first trip to the range. |
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If you have a friend that has a 1911 in 10 mil,try and rack the slide(hammer back)to the slide stop! Hardly anyone useing a .45acp can do it,because the spring is just that much stronger to account for the 10 mil's recoil! Too much spring will shorten the trip back,and if that is not your problem then remember that the locked back slide doesn't compress the spring fully! By pulling the slide back you will get full compresion! It doesn't seem like much but 1/4 or 1/16 or such means a lot in forward travel! Bob 
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You said variable spring, I never used one, but is there a chance you but the thing in backwards? If it makes any difference. Does the 1911 have the right amount of oil, or did it get a brake cleaner wash? On a tight slide 1911 no oil will decrease slide veloicty enough to where it will not load a round from the mag. At least this was my case with new 38 super mags and a dry slide. I fired about 100 rounds before I started getting feeding issues. Rembered that after we machined in the sightes I just assembled it and went to test fire. I put 4 drops on the 1911 one on each slide one on the hood and one where the disco rides on the slide. Fired another 200 rounds without a hitch. |
That's your problem. The variable power spring has more force the more tightly it is sprung. As it expands, the force lessens. So, when it is trying to move the slide forward without having gone all the way back, it just doesn't have enough ooomph to get the slide into battery. Go back to a regular spring and problem solved. |
Thanks! That's what I plan on trying. I was giving the variable power springs a try over the regular ones, since I do shoot some mixed loads (that's what they were made for), but after talking to a few "smiths" the springs are also weaker to handle lighter loads. Unfortunatly I did not have an extra spring with me at the range to swap out, so when I go today, I'll see if it works! Hey ASU1911, why your advice on not switching poundage on springs?? Thanks! |
I understand what you are saying, but I was practicing my "speed loads" for competetion. When I am just shooting for fun I typically do that. CB |
| Hopfully your not putting your hand over the ejecton port when working the slide, bad idea. Check BE fourms for why.www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=35856 |
No it is not. Using the slide stop requires fine motor skills and in a high stress situation you would not have that because your body diverts blood from the extremities to the vital organs. Using the "Tap and rack" method is a gross motor skill. It can be done when the hands are wet, have mud and blood on them etc. It is the same movement for any auto. There is plenty of room between the rear of the slide and the ejection port to accomplish this. If you don't believe me then try it for yourself. The next ten times you shoot a pistol do not use the slide stop on reloads. |
Your exactly correct in not using the slide stop to "assist" in racking the slide. After being on a entry team for the past 5 years, being under stress, and discovering firsthand how fine motor skill detiatiate under those situations I would not recommend using the slide stop to bring the slide back into battery. Consequently, I am a Kimber armour and while attending the school the instructor made it clear that the slide stop is to be used for two things; Holding the slide open and removing the slide from the frame in disassembly. Just my .02 cents.  And in answer to the question...go back to the original # spring, it should eliminate your problem. |