Posted: 12/13/2014 12:38:42 PM EDT
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I dont know if this is the proper place for this, so please let me know if I need to move it.
Down to business. I am soon going to be buying an M&P40 and already have a APEX DCAEK kit to install in it. I know it says that you can do it yourself, but it is recommended that a gunsmith do it for you. I just wanted feedback from people who did it themselves on how hard it was, tools needed, and performance compared to spending time and money to have a gunsmith do it for me. Edit: I am a college student and have limited access to gunsmiths tools; and for the foreseeable future the punches and blocks would be a one time use, which I dont see as a valid use of my limited finances. |
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The armorer's block from Apex to hold the frame is a great thing to have. Reliable punches and a hammer would also be useful.
For removing the sights, I recommend soaking the area in CLP for a few hours. A sight pusher is extremely useful if you do not have the proper hammer and flat punch for the sights. Lubricate the sight pusher threads well before you begin (make sure to remove the little hex screw in the rear sight). M&P sights are in really tight so if you can secure the slide in a vise that would be ideal. It's a lot of fun working on your own gun. You get to see the guts and get a better understanding of how it works. It's very rewarding when you put it all back together and it functions! 
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If you can change sights, you can put the kit in. Changing the trigger spring is a PITA, when I did the Apex install, I just left the stock trigger spring with the DCAEK and got a 4.5lb trigger with a sweet break.
The sear you can do with a block of wood, hammer and roll pin punch, the striker block needs the rear sight removed. |
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I installed the forward set sear and trigger kit on my M&P40 yesterday without any trouble and my "gunsmithing" skills are mediocre at best. The installation videos explain everything pretty well and I called APEX before I started for advice. Their tech support is great.
Like others have said, getting the rear sight off may be the most difficult part unless you have a CORE. I enjoyed doing the install myself because I could learn a bit more about the operation of the handgun. Ultimately it is up to you whether you want to mess with it yourself or pay a gunsmith, but I'm glad I did it myself. |
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Watch the APEX video three times, then go put it in. pay attention to the video, pretend you are about to be tested in school.
It is pretty easy, have the correct punches and do not be afraid to watch thee video a fourth time and hit pause, as you go through the steps. |
| Dawson Precision makes a nice set of sight punches that are great to have if you find out you have a rather stubborn rear (or front for that matter) sight. They're cheap too. Pick up those, and the APEX armorers block, and you'll be set. That is, provided you have a vise and a couple of soft wooden blocks. |
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No offense but have you actually shot a stock M&P trigger before you decided to replace it on a gun you haven't even purchased yet? It just seems like you have a solution and are now looking for a problem. None of my business but having been a poor college student myself, I would give the stock trigger a try before you decide it needs a $100+ upgrade.
INVEST in a QUALITY set of punches. You can have a top notch set of everything you need for about $100 and it will last you a lifetime. Avoid the temptation to use a cheap set of punches. They won't last and the damage they can do will far exceed any "savings". Not a flame, just a thought
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I owned both of my M&P's for almost a year before installing the DCAEK and RAM.
I shot them just fine. Hit the stuff I was trying to hit. I'm NOT anywhere close to an 'operator', and truthfully, hadn't shot handguns much. Then, after reading all these APEX testimonials, I installed the above mentioned parts and discovered the testimonials were accurate. The install went just fine for both the full size and compact. For the first install, I used a buddy's vise and a wooden square block ( cut to the correct width to fit the dove tail ) to remove the rear sight. On the second, I used the same wooden block, placed the slide on a roll of duct tape, and hammered the sight out without any issues or marring of surfaces. The sight removal is the most difficult part. The rest of the install is really straight forward and the videos show you everything you need to know. Just take your time, cut back on the caffeine - so your hands are steady ( if that effects you ), and use an empty egg carton to sort and secure your parts. Get the correct size punch and a small needle nosed pliers. |
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As others have already said, the hardest part is the rear with removal of you don't have the proper tools. I bought te MGW sight tool, but you can accomplish the same thing with punches, a vise and hammer.
My first m&p's (2009 or 2010 production date) rear sight came out relatively easy with punches in a vise. My second one (2014 production date) was jammed in there tight. Couldn't get it with a hammer and punch so I bought the MGW tool and it was still hard to get out. All of the trigger assembly/sear block work is a cake walk if you just follow along with the apex YouTube video. |
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Quoted:
No offense but have you actually shot a stock M&P trigger before you decided to replace it on a gun you haven't even purchased yet? It just seems like you have a solution and are now looking for a problem. None of my business but having been a poor college student myself, I would give the stock trigger a try before you decide it needs a $100+ upgrade. INVEST in a QUALITY set of punches. You can have a top notch set of everything you need for about $100 and it will last you a lifetime. Avoid the temptation to use a cheap set of punches. They won't last and the damage they can do will far exceed any "savings". Not a flame, just a thought I plan on buying an MP 9 fullsize soon....The only reason I dont have one yet is because I think the M&P pistols have the most god awful trigger/reset of any pistol ive ever shot (fullsize)...  The APEX has me wanting to pick one up now, but it still sucks I have to replace the trigger to really want the gun.....And no im not used to "great" competition triggers or anything...Just my honest opinion....great gun otherwise it seems.
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This is a forum named after a gun which most everyone modifies to their liking and no one has a problem with that.
The 1911 pistol is also customized and upgraded all the time without question. I don't understand why folk balk at upgrading triggers on the M&P line. Is it the fanboi's of other brands who plant those illogical barriers ? |
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I did it twice, a FSS and RAM to a M&P 9 and a DCAK/Trigger upgrade kit to a /.40 Shield.
I found the Shield more of a PITA than the 9, especially having difficulty installing to the shield AFTER the 9 and having some idea what to expect. That said, I managed to do the 9 without incident and I managed the shield frame. I got the rear sight of the shield and installed the Apex parts, then buggered the shit out of the rear site on reinstall (75% my fault/frustration), so I went to the LGS and bought a well-needed set of night sights that they dropped in for free. The rear sights are the iffy prospect on these guns. Some slide out without incident, and some may seize catastrophically, requiring warranty work/smithing with plenty of outcomes in between. I ended up getting an extra Shield kit for free and have no gun to drop that into, so I may get another Shield for the hell of it and PITA notwithstanding, I would attempt install on my own again. Punches are a requirement. A good set preferably one that won't fuck up your rear sight (if you are not in a position to replace it should it get buggered) is necessary. I had some cheap ass $8 punches and they sufficed, but now I need to replace one that bent from the process. I also used a 1911 armorer's block I had for $12 and a harbor freight vice. IF YOU ARE POOR AND CANNOT REPLACE A BUGGERED REAR SIGHT: cheap punches and no vice is a recipe for disaster should you not have a loose rear sight. If you want maximum return for minimal investment (and perhaps doubt your skills) find a store that will drop a rear sight/sight set of choice in for free as a service for your purchase of their sites. Do the frame install with a wood block, book, etc. and a nail or drill bits you don't mind hammering to oblivion and install the frame parts. Then bring in the gun with the slide parts and have the gunsmith drop in the apex parts as he is replacing the sights. |