Posted: 2/26/2015 12:50:38 PM EDT
| Just purchased the C&S CFS kit for my BHP and installed last night. After multiple tries, I'm unable to get the safety to function - stuck in downward position. I'm looking at the pictures and it appears that I did it right so I installed on another BHP with same outcome. Can someone tell me what I did wrong? Thoughts? |
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Just purchased the C&S CFS kit for my BHP and installed last night. After multiple tries, I'm unable to get the safety to function - stuck in downward position. I'm looking at the pictures and it appears that I did it right so I installed on another BHP with same outcome. Can someone tell me what I did wrong? Thoughts? http://www.cylinder-slide.com/videos.shtml#SFS The CFS "thumb lever" isn't used to make the gun "safe".........you just push the hammer down with your thumb. When ready to fire....you thumb the lever down. The hammer will snap back to full cock. |
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http://www.cylinder-slide.com/videos.shtml#SFS The CFS "thumb lever" isn't used to make the gun "safe".........you just push the hammer down with your thumb. When ready to fire....you thumb the lever down. The hammer will snap back to full cock. Quoted:
Quoted:
Just purchased the C&S CFS kit for my BHP and installed last night. After multiple tries, I'm unable to get the safety to function - stuck in downward position. I'm looking at the pictures and it appears that I did it right so I installed on another BHP with same outcome. Can someone tell me what I did wrong? Thoughts? http://www.cylinder-slide.com/videos.shtml#SFS The CFS "thumb lever" isn't used to make the gun "safe".........you just push the hammer down with your thumb. When ready to fire....you thumb the lever down. The hammer will snap back to full cock. Gotcha! Thanks. |
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It's a curious thread.
I bought a new SFS Hi Power and liked it so much I converted my FEG P9M (1st model) to the SFS configuration. Most people who go the SFS route like the ability to press the hammer forward to activate the safety. It allows Condition 1 carry without the hammer being obvious that it is cocked, it eliminates the potent for the hammer to snag on clothing, etc, and it eliminates hammer bite for those folks afflicted with that problem on the Hi Power. It also eliminates the risk of the hammer shearing the sear and firing the weapon if the hammer is struck. While carrying it concealed , you can also verify it is indeed on safe, by feeling the hammer position, and if it is not safe you can just press the hammer forward to see the weapon. That will never happen though as if you place your thumb over the hammer while holstering it, you can't miss having it on safe during the entire process. In any event, most people understand how the hammer and safety work before buying an SFS kit. My question then is what made you decide to get an SFS kit? 
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Slight side-track, so when the SFS is installed the standard thumb safety no longer works? All the thumb safety lever does in the SFS is release the hammer so it can spring back to the cocked position. The lever operates in one direction: down. Safety on: push hammer forward Safety off: push thumb safety lever down |
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It's a curious thread. I bought a new SFS Hi Power and liked it so much I converted my FEG P9M (1st model) to the SFS configuration. Most people who go the SFS route like the ability to press the hammer forward to activate the safety. It allows Condition 1 carry without the hammer being obvious that it is cocked, it eliminates the potent for the hammer to snag on clothing, etc, and it eliminates hammer bite for those folks afflicted with that problem on the Hi Power. It also eliminates the risk of the hammer shearing the sear and firing the weapon if the hammer is struck. While carrying it concealed , you can also verify it is indeed on safe, by feeling the hammer position, and if it is not safe you can just press the hammer forward to see the weapon. That will never happen though as if you place your thumb over the hammer while holstering it, you can't miss having it on safe during the entire process. In any event, most people understand how the hammer and safety work before buying an SFS kit. My question then is what made you decide to get an SFS kit? http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/AA0CB034-DE4F-4AC0-B9AE-33041FAA5607_zpsluqxt0ka.jpg For the ability you stated. I just didn't go the entire route by cocking, then pushing the hammer down with my thumb. It's an unusual approach the first time, like the concept of open bolt firearms. I'll just have to remember which BHP I'm shooting and work on muscle memory drills. |
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Slight side-track, so when the SFS is installed the standard thumb safety no longer works? Pull the hammer back into a locked position, then push the hammer down which locks the slide. Only way to work the slide or fire the gun is to push the thumb safety down which readies the gun to fire. It's not like any other firearm I've shot. |
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Pull the hammer back into a locked position, then push the hammer down which locks the slide. Only way to work the slide or fire the gun is to push the thumb safety down which readies the gun to fire. It's not like any other firearm I've shot. Quoted:
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Slight side-track, so when the SFS is installed the standard thumb safety no longer works? Pull the hammer back into a locked position, then push the hammer down which locks the slide. Only way to work the slide or fire the gun is to push the thumb safety down which readies the gun to fire. It's not like any other firearm I've shot. It is also just like a Hi Power or a 1911 in that the manual safety when it is on "safe" also locks the slide. No difference what so ever. Just like a standard Hi Power or a 1911, when you want to ready the weapon to fire you press the manual safety down to the "fire" position. That action causes the hammer to pop back to the full cock position, but it's seamless from a user interface perspective. The only difference is that you apply the safety by pressing the hammer forward, which cases the safety to snap up into the "safe" position. ---- The first few times I shot my SFS Hi Power in practical pistol matches, I had range officers ask me if I really wanted to start in Condition 2. A couple of them were ok with it, but I had to argue with one of them that "Yes, I really do want to start with the hammer down, because it means the safety is on". I had to unload it and then show him how it actually worked. Then he argued about whether it was legal in the stock class as he was not aware that it was a factory option on the Hi Power. That's the only problem I've ever had with mine. |
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In the picture from my post above, the SFS Hi Power is in the "fired", uncocked position with the hammer all the way forward and past the hammer block and the safety in the down position:
In the picture below my SFS Hi Power and SFS converted FEG P9 are in the Condition 1 cocked and locked position, with the hammer slightly raised as it is sitting on the hammer block and the safety in the raised (safe) position. One advantage of the SFS conversion is that you get an ambidextrous safety lever with it: 
The FEG conversion is straight forward, but you have to reprofile the slide release slightly to fit the smaller cut in the FEG slide (which mirrors the Pre-Mk II Hi Power, rather than the Mk III Hi Power), and you have to reduce the pin on the safety lever by the few thousandths to get it to fit in the slightly smaller hole in the FEG frame. 
Cylinder and Slide also sells an SFS kit for the 1911. I have one installed on my Kimber Ultra Carry and it is in Condition 1 in the picture below: 
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Interesting thread. For those that have done it: How hard was the installation of the SFS system? I'm mechanically inclined, but have never detail stripped a HP. Would love to install this in my FEG. Thanks in advance, Chris Easy to install. Trick is wrapping your mind around new functionality. Slide will not lock back so you nee to hold back for disassembly. When slide is cycled, hammer is in firing position which you then push forward with thumb. This locks the slide and pushing up on safety springs hammer back to firing position. Either you like it or hate it so I recommend trying one out before spending $$$. |
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Still on hijack, so if the hammer is back, it's cocked and ready to fire, by pushing the hammer forward, you activate the safety, and the gun will NOT fire, even if you pull the trigger, until you push the safety lever down, which causes the hammer to snap back to the fully cocked position?
So the safety lever no longer moves upward at all, So if the hammer is back, it means there is no safety on, but in a modern high-power, you would still have the firing pin block? |
Got it, finally. 
So the pictures shown of the high-powers in this thread are NOT safety on and ready to shoot, because the safety is in the down position. But the 1911 shown IS in the ready to shoot position, because the hammer is down and the safety is up. Anyone who owns one happen to be in the Fort Worth area? I'd love to check one out in person. |
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Easy to install. Trick is wrapping your mind around new functionality. Slide will not lock back so you nee to hold back for disassembly. When slide is cycled, hammer is in firing position which you then push forward with thumb. This locks the slide and pushing up on safety springs hammer back to firing position. Either you like it or hate it so I recommend trying one out before spending $$$. Quoted:
Quoted:
Interesting thread. For those that have done it: How hard was the installation of the SFS system? I'm mechanically inclined, but have never detail stripped a HP. Would love to install this in my FEG. Thanks in advance, Chris Easy to install. Trick is wrapping your mind around new functionality. Slide will not lock back so you nee to hold back for disassembly. When slide is cycled, hammer is in firing position which you then push forward with thumb. This locks the slide and pushing up on safety springs hammer back to firing position. Either you like it or hate it so I recommend trying one out before spending $$$. Yes, I completely understand the function and operation of the SFS. My question pertains to the dis-assembly and installation of the SFS. Is it a complicated procedure? Are there instructions included? is it something that should be installed by C&S, or can the layman do it? I spoke to C&S, $65.00 for the install. |
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Yes, I completely understand the function and operation of the SFS. My question pertains to the dis-assembly and installation of the SFS. Is it a complicated procedure? Are there instructions included? is it something that should be installed by C&S, or can the layman do it? I spoke to C&S, $65.00 for the install. Quoted:
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Quoted:
Interesting thread. For those that have done it: How hard was the installation of the SFS system? I'm mechanically inclined, but have never detail stripped a HP. Would love to install this in my FEG. Thanks in advance, Chris Easy to install. Trick is wrapping your mind around new functionality. Slide will not lock back so you nee to hold back for disassembly. When slide is cycled, hammer is in firing position which you then push forward with thumb. This locks the slide and pushing up on safety springs hammer back to firing position. Either you like it or hate it so I recommend trying one out before spending $$$. Yes, I completely understand the function and operation of the SFS. My question pertains to the dis-assembly and installation of the SFS. Is it a complicated procedure? Are there instructions included? is it something that should be installed by C&S, or can the layman do it? I spoke to C&S, $65.00 for the install. Instructions are very simple, so simple that I thought I was doing something wrong so I reinstalled about a dozen times. If you can install a LPK on an AR15, you should be good. |
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In the picture from my post above, the SFS Hi Power is in the "fired", uncocked position with the hammer all the way forward and past the hammer block and the safety in the down position: http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/AA0CB034-DE4F-4AC0-B9AE-33041FAA5607_zpsluqxt0ka.jpg In the picture below my SFS Hi Power and SFS converted FEG P9 are in the Condition 1 cocked and locked position, with the hammer slightly raised as it is sitting on the hammer block and the safety in the raised (safe) position. One advantage of the SFS conversion is that you get an ambidextrous safety lever with it: http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/75CD1E81-E2F1-410A-8266-6FFA25128276-1427-000003F1A853F32C_zps60fcd653.jpg The FEG conversion is straight forward, but you have to reprofile the slide release slightly to fit the smaller cut in the FEG slide (which mirrors the Pre-Mk II Hi Power, rather than the Mk III Hi Power), and you have to reduce the pin on the safety lever by the few thousandths to get it to fit in the slightly smaller hole in the FEG frame. http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/A873A8E0-AA1D-40CA-80AC-FD2A3FDFDCB1_zpsl50gzsjs.jpg Cylinder and Slide also sells an SFS kit for the 1911. I have one installed on my Kimber Ultra Carry and it is in Condition 1 in the picture below: http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h470/SDBB57/0f1bdbb3.jpg In the picture of the slide release, what part is reprofiled? Can the originall slide release be employed, or must it be changed with the rest of the SFS parts. |
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In the picture of the slide release, what part is reprofiled? Can the originall slide release be employed, or must it be changed with the rest of the SFS parts. The slide release on the bottom is the one that has been reprofiled for use in the 1rst generation FEG P9M. Yes, you can just use the old slide release. |