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Posted: 1/23/2023 2:36:42 PM EST
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm just a hack with a file that likes to tinker. And prefers to work on my own guns (with-in reason). As a lefty, knowing how to fit an ambi is a must. But I'll wait for the new Staccato ambi I ordered and see how that fits. It's not worth tinkering with the SA ambi. Same here and I had the same issue eventually with my ambi-safety. It was somewhere around the 1500 round mark when it started loosening up, but I had taken the gun completely apart multiple times replacing things 1-2 items at a time. Like a dummy I attempted to tighten the groove in the ambi-side without the tongue of the left side safety and mine snapped. I put in a Wilson Bullet Proof High-Ride and like it. The best best would be an EGW HD with an extended STI/2011 width hammer pin that locks into a recess on the right side to ensure it can't wiggle free.  https://www.egwguns.com/hd-ambi-thumb-safety-blue $145 for an ambi-safety is a little steep though. I paid less than $50 for the Wilson. |
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Posted: 1/23/2023 2:50:01 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Same here and I had the same issue eventually with my ambi-safety. It was somewhere around the 1500 round mark when it started loosening up, but I had taken the gun completely apart multiple times replacing things 1-2 items at a time. Like a dummy I attempted to tighten the groove in the ambi-side without the tongue of the left side safety and mine snapped. I put in a Wilson Bullet Proof High-Ride and like it. The best best would be an EGW HD with an extended STI/2011 width hammer pin that locks into a recess on the right side to ensure it can't wiggle free. https://www.egwguns.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/74c1057f7991b4edb2bc7bdaa94de933/_/1/_1_1_11323_15_205.jpg https://www.egwguns.com/hd-ambi-thumb-safety-blue $145 for an ambi-safety is a little steep though. I paid less than $50 for the Wilson. Thanks. That's the kind I usually run in my single stacks. I'm cheap and usually buy the Kimbers. I wasn't sure if the 2011's use a regular 1911 safety (why I ordered the Staccato). |
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Posted: 1/23/2023 2:53:56 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I ordered a sheet from Talon Grip and just cut a piece to fit that area. Did one on my C2 also. I'm not real sure why that's a popular place to leave smooth? It would seem on a draw that's the first place your hand would hit? Anyway, the Talon tape isn't too rough but sticks to your skin fairly well. It's the granulate. TALON GRIPS DIY 5" x 7" Material Sheets $10.99 C2 (not as clean looking) https://i.imgur.com/qnziZQo.jpg I'm just a hack with a file that likes to tinker. And prefers to work on my own guns (with-in reason). As a lefty, knowing how to fit an ambi is a must. But I'll wait for the new Staccato ambi I ordered and see how that fits. It's not worth tinkering with the SA ambi. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Is that Grip Tape right under the trigger Guard? That looks good. How did you make it look so clean cut? I ordered a sheet from Talon Grip and just cut a piece to fit that area. Did one on my C2 also. I'm not real sure why that's a popular place to leave smooth? It would seem on a draw that's the first place your hand would hit? Anyway, the Talon tape isn't too rough but sticks to your skin fairly well. It's the granulate. TALON GRIPS DIY 5" x 7" Material Sheets $10.99 C2 (not as clean looking) https://i.imgur.com/qnziZQo.jpg Quoted: IDK anything about the safety but since you have fitted a nice trigger on yours I bet you know the fix. Mine is a 4.25" also. I'm just a hack with a file that likes to tinker. And prefers to work on my own guns (with-in reason). As a lefty, knowing how to fit an ambi is a must. But I'll wait for the new Staccato ambi I ordered and see how that fits. It's not worth tinkering with the SA ambi. |
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Posted: 1/23/2023 3:37:52 PM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. That's the kind I usually run in my single stacks. I'm cheap and usually buy the Kimbers. I wasn't sure if the 2011's use a regular 1911 safety (why I ordered the Staccato). Well, they do. BUT, if you want to be able to use the captured design you'll need the longer EGW pin for 2011/wide-body frames. They sell the pin separately, so the Kimber pinned version may work. I've never seen one in hand before but it may work so long as the portion of the STI hammer pin that protrudes from the right side of the frame will fit into the recess in the right/ambi side of the Kimber safety. Considering it has to be small enough to fit through the frame, you'd think they'd either be the same or close enough that you could make it work. |
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Posted: 1/23/2023 9:19:28 PM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. That's the kind I usually run in my single stacks. I'm cheap and usually buy the Kimbers. I wasn't sure if the 2011's use a regular 1911 safety (why I ordered the Staccato). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Same here and I had the same issue eventually with my ambi-safety. It was somewhere around the 1500 round mark when it started loosening up, but I had taken the gun completely apart multiple times replacing things 1-2 items at a time. Like a dummy I attempted to tighten the groove in the ambi-side without the tongue of the left side safety and mine snapped. I put in a Wilson Bullet Proof High-Ride and like it. The best best would be an EGW HD with an extended STI/2011 width hammer pin that locks into a recess on the right side to ensure it can't wiggle free. https://www.egwguns.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/74c1057f7991b4edb2bc7bdaa94de933/_/1/_1_1_11323_15_205.jpg https://www.egwguns.com/hd-ambi-thumb-safety-blue $145 for an ambi-safety is a little steep though. I paid less than $50 for the Wilson. Thanks. That's the kind I usually run in my single stacks. I'm cheap and usually buy the Kimbers. I wasn't sure if the 2011's use a regular 1911 safety (why I ordered the Staccato). |
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Posted: 1/23/2023 9:27:33 PM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As a lefty, this is something I'll be keeping an eye on. So regular ambi safeties WILL fit? Yes. Several here have installed ambi-safeties and posted them here. Mine is the Wilson Combat High Ride Ambi-Safety. |
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Posted: 1/24/2023 7:16:33 PM EST
[#7]
Anyone have any advice my 4.25 won’t extract all the way some times, kind of like I was limp wristing it. Could the extractor have too much tension to kick them out?
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Posted: 1/24/2023 7:30:17 PM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone have any advice my 4.25 won’t extract all the way some times, kind of like I was limp wristing it. Could the extractor have too much tension to kick them out? Assuming you are not limp wristing it, it’s usually too little extractor tension that caused failures to extract. If the extractor had too much tension it would have issues feeding rounds as they wouldn’t be able to slide up from under the extractor hook. It’s possibly it could be a slightly out of spec chamber as well. Even though a round feeds into the chamber, if it’s a little on the tight end the small amount of case expansion from firing the round could make it stick. If your rounds are feeding into the chamber without issue I would tighten the extractor and test it. If you are still having problems I’d send it to Springfield to have the chamber checked since so many have been out of spec.  Extractor Tuning for Hicap 1911/2011 Style Pistols with Mike Pan |
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Posted: 1/24/2023 7:35:26 PM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anyone have any advice my 4.25 won’t extract all the way some times, kind of like I was limp wristing it. Could the extractor have too much tension to kick them out?  How to Tune a 1911 Extractor by Wilson Combat This was helpful for me. I went through this procedure before the first range trip and never had extraction issues, just a few failures to fully go into battery in the beginning. The post above was a good one too. |
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Posted: 1/24/2023 8:25:30 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Assuming you are not limp wristing it, it’s usually too little extractor tension that caused failures to extract. If the extractor had too much tension it would have issues feeding rounds as they wouldn’t be able to slide up from under the extractor hook. It’s possibly it could be a slightly out of spec chamber as well. Even though a round feeds into the chamber, if it’s a little on the tight end the small amount of case expansion from firing the round could make it stick. If your rounds are feeding into the chamber without issue I would tighten the extractor and test it. If you are still having problems I’d send it to Springfield to have the chamber checked since so many have been out of spec.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COv5BtKxQMIAwesome thank you I’ll mess with it tonight and see what I can find |
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Posted: 1/24/2023 8:26:06 PM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOSmJd7HaDYThis was helpful for me. I went through this procedure before the first range trip and never had extraction issues, just a few failures to fully go into battery in the beginning. The post above was a good one too. I will do what that video says thank you |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 5:07:27 PM EST
[#12]
Looks like I get to do a deep dive in mine. I put a new 19 lb main in mine and went out for a test fire. Got about 25 rounds in and the trigger locked up, hammer cocked. Pulled the MSH/sear spring and was able to get the hammer down but the grip safety is stuck in the Depressed position. I probably did something wrong reassembling after the new MS, but it passed basic function test and worked for a bit.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 5:25:56 PM EST
[#13]
It could be the sear spring if it was installed incorrectly. If you missed the ledge on the sear it could get wedged between the sear/disconnector and grip safety.
 Short of that it could be debris that somehow got in the ignition system area. Or, and hopefully not, something broken on one of the MIM parts. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 5:48:02 PM EST
[#14]
I’ll figure it out tonight. The sear spring seemed to be in correctly, took two tries to get it right.
And since I was out there with a bag of ammo and a dead gun, I decided to shoot my carry gun, 365XL. The HSTs were fine, but that damn Mcarbo spring set gave me light strikes on factory ball. Now I get to gut that one out too. I’m putting all the factory springs back in there. I think something broke in the prodigy, odd the grip safe is stuck down with the sear spring removed. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 5:58:03 PM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ll figure it out tonight. The sear spring seemed to be in correctly, took two tries to get it right. And since I was out there with a bag of ammo and a dead gun, I decided to shoot my carry gun, 365XL. The HSTs were fine, but that damn Mcarbo spring set gave me light strikes on factory ball. Now I get to gut that one out too. I’m putting all the factory springs back in there. I think something broke in the prodigy, odd the grip safe is stuck down with the sear spring removed. Pro tip, I use the mainspring housing to keep the sear springs in place while I put the safety and grip safety back in the gun. Just slide it in about halfway, and it won’t budge. Not saying you don’t already know this, but perhaps a 1911 noob like myself might find it useful. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 6:22:33 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pro tip, I use the mainspring housing to keep the sear springs in place while I put the safety and grip safety back in the gun. Just slide it in about halfway, and it won’t budge. Not saying you don’t already know this, but perhaps a 1911 noob like myself might find it useful. Thanks, I did not know that. I was using a rubber band to hold down the GS for reassembly. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 6:38:40 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks, I did not know that. I was using a rubber band to hold down the GS for reassembly. Just another pro tip, the grip safety is cut to where it can be removed/installed with the mainspring housing in place. So you can install the mainspring housing and then the grip safety. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 6:40:55 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I’ll figure it out tonight. The sear spring seemed to be in correctly, took two tries to get it right. And since I was out there with a bag of ammo and a dead gun, I decided to shoot my carry gun, 365XL. The HSTs were fine, but that damn Mcarbo spring set gave me light strikes on factory ball. Now I get to gut that one out too. I’m putting all the factory springs back in there. I think something broke in the prodigy, odd the grip safe is stuck down with the sear spring removed. Did you swap out the trigger? I had to refit my grip safety after I added the Vario trigger. SA uses a funky design with a gradual ledge, vs a squared cut. If you lock the slide back or take it off, you can see how the trigger bar and grip safety interact. Your trigger bar may have gotten stuck on the grip safety engagement some how? |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:02:44 PM EST
[#19]
 Attached FileThat’s the factory trigger in there. Nothing looks broken. Grip S still would not swing out, so I pulled the safety’s. I’m no gun plumber but nothing looks wrong. I’ll re assemble tomorrow and check it again. I do wonder if the trigger over travel set screw came out of adjustment. I’ve not touched it, and can’t till I get the proper hex key. First problem at the range was the hammer wouldn’t drop with a trigger pull. Anyone know what size that set screw is? |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:13:05 PM EST
[#20]
Got my light, got my RMR, got my optic plate, and. . . RMR screws are too long! What size screws do I need???
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:15:47 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got my light, got my RMR, got my optic plate, and. . . RMR screws are too long! What size screws do I need??? You can use the OEM RMR screws. Got my RMR mounted up tonight, ended up having to take .100" off of each screw and it fit perfectly. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:41:55 PM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can use the OEM RMR screws. Got my RMR mounted up tonight, ended up having to take .100" off of each screw and it fit perfectly. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Got my light, got my RMR, got my optic plate, and. . . RMR screws are too long! What size screws do I need??? You can use the OEM RMR screws. Got my RMR mounted up tonight, ended up having to take .100" off of each screw and it fit perfectly. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 8:51:20 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'd rather get ones that are properly sized and save the OEM ones just in case. Mine seem quite a bit longer than needed. Mine were too. I was willing to mess around with it though since they're a standard thread pitch so I could buy new ones if I screwed up. FYI, thread pitch is 6/32 |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 9:51:28 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/857/D8A582E5-A5C9-4EF6-9627-D3204EA12ACF_jpe-2685402.JPG That’s the factory trigger in there. Nothing looks broken. Grip S still would not swing out, so I pulled the safety’s. I’m no gun plumber but nothing looks wrong. I’ll re assemble tomorrow and check it again. I do wonder if the trigger over travel set screw came out of adjustment. I’ve not touched it, and can’t till I get the proper hex key. First problem at the range was the hammer wouldn’t drop with a trigger pull. Anyone know what size that set screw is? Is that a marred portion on the hammer strut? If so, it looks like it was binding on the grip safety. That could have happened if you didn’t get the strut centered in the cup/recess in the mainspring housing cap. |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 10:35:19 PM EST
[#25]
I ended up putting a new extractor into it and did as the videos said to check it last night. I ran around 150 rounds through it today with no issues. Thank you for all the help everyone
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Posted: 1/25/2023 11:20:25 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I ended up putting a new extractor into it and did as the videos said to check it last night. I ran around 150 rounds through it today with no issues. Thank you for all the help everyone You did that EGW one? |
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Posted: 1/25/2023 11:28:05 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is that a marred portion on the hammer strut? If so, it looks like it was binding on the grip safety. That could have happened if you didn’t get the strut centered in the cup/recess in the mainspring housing cap. Probably. My issue had to be from my botched reassembly, I bet I didn’t get the sear spring in that retention notch. It will go together much easier the ways suggested. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 10:43:24 AM EST
[#28]
Question?
Are the rounds supposed to sound "loose" in the 17 rd mags? I was loading them up for a quick range trip at lunch time and the rounds rattle around in the 17rd mags, not so much in the 1 20 rd I have. With only 170rds down range, I haven't had an issue yet. Hoping to put another 100 or so through it today. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:14:41 AM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Question? Are the rounds supposed to sound "loose" in the 17 rd mags? I was loading them up for a quick range trip at lunch time and the rounds rattle around in the 17rd mags, not so much in the 1 20 rd I have. With only 170rds down range, I haven't had an issue yet. Hoping to put another 100 or so through it today. My staccato mags do the same thing I thing it’s normal |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:15:22 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You did that EGW one? Yep, I ground the part that was getting stuck down and then fit it like everyone said and it’s worked great so far |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:20:00 AM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My staccato mags do the same thing I thing it's normal Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Question? Are the rounds supposed to sound "loose" in the 17 rd mags? I was loading them up for a quick range trip at lunch time and the rounds rattle around in the 17rd mags, not so much in the 1 20 rd I have. With only 170rds down range, I haven't had an issue yet. Hoping to put another 100 or so through it today. My staccato mags do the same thing I thing it's normal Thanks. I mean with only 170 rds (which is nothing) they all fed fine, but just seemed weird as my M&P, normal 1911's, and beretta mags don't rattle like that. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:22:42 AM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Question? Are the rounds supposed to sound "loose" in the 17 rd mags? I was loading them up for a quick range trip at lunch time and the rounds rattle around in the 17rd mags, not so much in the 1 20 rd I have. With only 170rds down range, I haven't had an issue yet. Hoping to put another 100 or so through it today. My Prodigy mags do that and my hicap Glock magazines. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:24:40 AM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My Prodigy mags do that and my hicap Glock magazines. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Question? Are the rounds supposed to sound "loose" in the 17 rd mags? I was loading them up for a quick range trip at lunch time and the rounds rattle around in the 17rd mags, not so much in the 1 20 rd I have. With only 170rds down range, I haven't had an issue yet. Hoping to put another 100 or so through it today. My Prodigy mags do that and my hicap Glock magazines. Same here. Not a problem. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:37:01 AM EST
[#34]
Thanks.
LGS that I bought the Prodigy from has 2 17rd mags for $46.99 +tax. Seems like a decent price and tempting. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 12:02:00 PM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. LGS that I bought the Prodigy from has 2 17rd mags for $46.99 +tax. Seems like a decent price and tempting. If you mean both together for that price, that’s the lowest I’ve seen or heard of. So far the lowest I’ve seen online is low $30’s per mag. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 1:09:27 PM EST
[#36]
No that is a piece. Best online I've seen was like $42.99 + shipping and tax.
Another 162 rounds down range with no issues. The S&B brass is slightly more accurate than the Blazer aluminum I was shooting today. 
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Posted: 1/26/2023 1:25:22 PM EST
[#37]
Does anyone know what models of safariland Als holsters can be used, or expediently modified to work with a prodigy 4.25? I had heard tale of m&p 2.0 holsters being used to make prodigy holsters. Of course, that means I went ahead and bought one.
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Posted: 1/26/2023 2:00:31 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone know what models of safariland Als holsters can be used, or expediently modified to work with a prodigy 4.25? I had heard tale of m&p 2.0 holsters being used to make prodigy holsters. Of course, that means I went ahead and bought one. There are 10+ options for the 4.25” but you have to select an optic and light option regardless of whether you’ll use an optic because only rds with light options are available right now. Use their holster finder on their website and select the SA 4.25” Prodigy, Trijicon RMR, and Surefire X300U and you’ll see what’s available. The M&P mod was more for the 5” Prodigy because there aren’t any options from Safariland for that model. RDR Gear makes modded holsters but they are expensive. You are paying full MSRP for the holster plus the cost they add in for the mod work. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 2:49:41 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: There are 10+ options for the 4.25” but you have to select an optic and light option regardless of whether you’ll use an optic because only rds with light options are available right now. Use their holster finder on their website and select the SA 4.25” Prodigy, Trijicon RMR, and Surefire X300U and you’ll see what’s available. The M&P mod was more for the 5” Prodigy because there aren’t any options from Safariland for that model. RDR Gear makes modded holsters but they are expensive. You are paying full MSRP for the holster plus the cost they add in for the mod work. Do you know what the mod was to make it work? This holster was a pattern that I wanted when they came out, but it was limited run, and I missed the boat. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 3:26:00 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do you know what the mod was to make it work? This holster was a pattern that I wanted when they came out, but it was limited run, and I missed the boat. I’m not certain, but I believe in the case of RDR Gear, they find a holster model that is close and use a heat gun to reshape the holster to fit whatever they are modifying it for. So in your case, you’d find the M&P holster that is the same overall length as the Prodigy 4.25” or a hair longer and then use a heat gun to soften the holster and then holster your gun to form fit it. You can’t use the heat gun for too long or you risk damaging the holster. So it’s a little heat and then attempt to holster. Repeat the process until the gun fits and then leave it there for a few minutes for the holster to completely harden back up. In the case of ALS holsters, RDR Gear may remove the ALS locking mechanism during the heating/remolding process to keep from damaging it. Since you have a 4.25” holster I would just buy one of the holsters Safariland says will fit. Unless you have a Safariland holster already that you are willing to attempt to mod. |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 3:48:33 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have a question for everyone that installed an optic on their Prodigy. Today I installed an RMR and torque the plate to 18 inch pound. The manual state not to exceed 25 inch pound. How much torque are you guys using for this screws? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/394016/ProdigyRMR_jpg-2666413.JPG @kevinRR What pistol bag is this? |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 3:56:37 PM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does anyone know what models of safariland Als holsters can be used, or expediently modified to work with a prodigy 4.25? I had heard tale of m&p 2.0 holsters being used to make prodigy holsters. Of course, that means I went ahead and bought one. It uses 4.1” Staccato holsters. I used the holster finder and put in my Prodigy and this is what I received. Fits perfectly, but it’s just a Staccato holster. 
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Posted: 1/26/2023 10:44:00 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got my light, got my RMR, got my optic plate, and. . . RMR screws are too long! What size screws do I need??? I posted the thread pitch and length in an earlier thread. Pitch is 6/32 and length is .390" |
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Posted: 1/26/2023 11:13:48 PM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @kevinRR What pistol bag is this? It's a Maxpedition soft case. |
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Posted: 1/27/2023 12:29:22 AM EST
[#45]
Is there anything else you would all recommend to replace more as a quality of life not really a need? Also does it take the same grip as staccato? I’ve seen it’s a little different but would they work?
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Posted: 1/27/2023 12:54:05 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there anything else you would all recommend to replace more as a quality of life not really a need? Also does it take the same grip as staccato? I’ve seen it’s a little different but would they work? Polish, lube, shoot. Grip is mostly the same as gen1 STI. |
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Posted: 1/27/2023 9:15:41 AM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Is there anything else you would all recommend to replace more as a quality of life not really a need? Also does it take the same grip as staccato? I’ve seen it’s a little different but would they work? As posted above this, only original/Gen1 STI patterned frames will work. There are several options available but they are expensive at around $300 for polymer and $500 for aluminum. The parts that make using the Prodigy more convenient for me are a tool-less guide rod, a slide stop with a better/bigger lobe protrusion (STI or 10-8), and a trigger that fits you better if the stock isn’t the best for your hand size and/or trigger finger length. |
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Posted: 1/27/2023 9:38:31 AM EST
[#48]
Thank you everyone
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Posted: 1/27/2023 9:52:47 AM EST
[#49]
Another must have for 2011’s:
Arredondo Mag Brush for 2011’s https://dawsonprecision.com/mag-brush-for-all-hi-cap-cleaning-brush-by-arredondo/ |
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Posted: 1/27/2023 10:16:27 AM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's a Maxpedition soft case. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: @kevinRR What pistol bag is this? It's a Maxpedition soft case. |
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