Posted: 8/10/2015 8:07:18 PM EDT
| I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? |
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I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? 1911s don't require break in. |
| Cheap 230 gr FMJ. Aluminum-case Blazer is great for this. To start with, use only the mags that come with it. If it gums up and starts making mistakes after about 100 rounds, field-strip it, spray with some kind of lube, wipe off the excess and push on. 500 rounds is plenty. After this do a detail strip, clean, inspect and lube. Now the pistol should be ready. |
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Cheap 230 gr FMJ. Aluminum-case Blazer is great for this. To start with, use only the mags that come with it. If it gums up and starts making mistakes after about 100 rounds, field-strip it, spray with some kind of lube, wipe off the excess and push on. 500 rounds is plenty. After this do a detail strip, clean, inspect and lube. Now the pistol should be ready. What are you breaking in? Why would shooting more fix a problem? |
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What are you breaking in? Why would shooting more fix a problem? Quoted:
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Cheap 230 gr FMJ. Aluminum-case Blazer is great for this. To start with, use only the mags that come with it. If it gums up and starts making mistakes after about 100 rounds, field-strip it, spray with some kind of lube, wipe off the excess and push on. 500 rounds is plenty. After this do a detail strip, clean, inspect and lube. Now the pistol should be ready. What are you breaking in? Why would shooting more fix a problem? You assume all problems are equal. Poorly fit barrel, wrong feedramp angle, etc. Will not go away. A very tight gun will shoot in. Tight slide and hard fit barrel can hiccup when new but smooth out quickly if built right. |
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You assume all problems are equal. Poorly fit barrel, wrong feedramp angle, etc. Will not go away. A very tight gun will shoot in. Tight slide and hard fit barrel can hiccup when new but smooth out quickly if built right. Quoted:
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Cheap 230 gr FMJ. Aluminum-case Blazer is great for this. To start with, use only the mags that come with it. If it gums up and starts making mistakes after about 100 rounds, field-strip it, spray with some kind of lube, wipe off the excess and push on. 500 rounds is plenty. After this do a detail strip, clean, inspect and lube. Now the pistol should be ready. What are you breaking in? Why would shooting more fix a problem? You assume all problems are equal. Poorly fit barrel, wrong feedramp angle, etc. Will not go away. A very tight gun will shoot in. Tight slide and hard fit barrel can hiccup when new but smooth out quickly if built right. No one said anything about any fitting issues or problems. |
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1911s don't require break in. Quoted:
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I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? 1911s don't require break in. Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. |
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Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. Quoted:
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I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? 1911s don't require break in. Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. I firmly believe that Wilson Combat's break-in procedure is just so that people can disassemble the gun. A hand fitted gun is very difficult to take apart for some people. |
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I firmly believe that Wilson Combat's break-in procedure is just so that people can disassemble the gun. A hand fitted gun is very difficult to take apart for some people. Quoted:
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I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? 1911s don't require break in. Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. I firmly believe that Wilson Combat's break-in procedure is just so that people can disassemble the gun. A hand fitted gun is very difficult to take apart for some people. Has nothing to do with being able to take the gun apart. A bushing wrench might be needed but breaking a gun in isn't likely to change that. |
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Has nothing to do with being able to take the gun apart. A bushing wrench might be needed but breaking a gun in isn't likely to change that. Quoted:
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I am waiting on a Springer RO Lightweight Champion. It comes with a stainless NM barrel with a fully supported ramp. I've read to break in with fmj to protect the ramp (why just for break-in?) or is JHP okay? Reasons for either choice? 1911s don't require break in. Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. I firmly believe that Wilson Combat's break-in procedure is just so that people can disassemble the gun. A hand fitted gun is very difficult to take apart for some people. Has nothing to do with being able to take the gun apart. A bushing wrench might be needed but breaking a gun in isn't likely to change that. I didn't do that for any of my Wilsons. They all seem fine. |
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I didn't do that for any of my Wilsons. They all seem fine. Quoted:
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1911s don't require break in. Some do. more of a wear in, Bear and Wilson come to mind. I firmly believe that Wilson Combat's break-in procedure is just so that people can disassemble the gun. A hand fitted gun is very difficult to take apart for some people. Has nothing to do with being able to take the gun apart. A bushing wrench might be needed but breaking a gun in isn't likely to change that. I didn't do that for any of my Wilsons. They all seem fine. Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. |
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Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. |
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I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. Quoted:
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Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. This post discredits itself. Anyone who has spent any significant time around guns has personally witnessed guns that have a mystery hiccup in the first couple hundred rounds and then run thousands of rounds without issue. |
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This post discredits itself. Anyone who has spent any significant time around guns has personally witnessed guns that have a mystery hiccup in the first couple hundred rounds and then run thousands of rounds without issue. Quoted:
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Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. This post discredits itself. Anyone who has spent any significant time around guns has personally witnessed guns that have a mystery hiccup in the first couple hundred rounds and then run thousands of rounds without issue. No. They either work or not. |
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I went through the Colt AR-15 armorer school. Too bad it wasn't the combined school with 1911s so I'd have better info from the horse's mouth. Their recommendation (more like direct order) was for public safety agencies to put new rifles through a 500-round break-in. I'd venture to guess that they would want the same for their pistols.
In my own experience with my 1911s, they've been totally reliable, so I couldn't say one way or the other if my break-in helped. I think it's wise to make sure any weapon is reliable before depending on it. |
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To each their own, everyone has their own beliefs and opinions. Some people "KNOW" people who "WORK" for such and such company and they told them every gun needs to be broke in. Some people read it "ONLINE" that you need to break your gun in. Some people believe you need to shoot 500 rounds to make sure your gun works correctly.
Everything is really based on your own personal belief and opinion. Like was mentioned on here "It's gonna work or it won't" You may fire 500 rounds thru a gun and say "Ok it's broke in, had no problems with the 500 rounds, it's ready to carry. Guy walks up and tries to rob you, you pull your gun and nothing. Oh look the 501st round malfunctioned." Just because it went 500 rounds problem free doesn't guarantee you the firearm will work forever. Going back to the quote "It's gonna work or it's not gonna work" Almost like buying a car, you go to the dealership test drive a car around the block. The car worked, u pressed the gas and it drove, this car worked I'll buy it. You get it home and a week later something happens and your car isn't working anymore. But hey, you "BROKE IT IN" by test driving it and everything worked. My buddy bought a motorcycle one time and they told him it needs a break in cycle. Not to get it over 60 MPH for like the first so many miles. What did he do? He pulled out of the parking lot, got on the interstate, ran it 130 MPH all the way home. Never had a bit of trouble out of it. But yea, straight to the point. DO WHATEVER MAKES YOU FEEL COMFORTABLE. People will try to tell you what you NEED to do instead of suggesting options or giving you their opinion and letting you do what you believe in. At the end of the day it's your money and your gun. Do what you want. |
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I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. Quoted:
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Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. We buy the guns to shoot, right? So whether you call it a break in period or just a fun afternoon At the range aren't we all doing the same thing?? I don't follow any protocol but I do think guns smooth out and just feel "better" after a few boxes and a follow up clean and lube. I know that's not a quantifiable item so take it for what it's worth... |
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I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. Quoted:
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Didn't do what? Try and follow along here... Some tight guns may need to be shot a bit to wear in. Some may not. Other guns may just have issues because they were not fit properly. Someone asked about breaking in a gun. You comment 1911s don't need that. Fact is some do. Don't ramble in a tech forum about your unfounded opinions. People come here for help not to hear a guy that doesn't know what he is talking about. I've had too many 1911s to count over the past 20 years. Just about every barrel length, every caliber, and every configuration. I have never had any issue with any gun that could be attributed to it not being worn/broken in. Bad extractors, bad feed ramps, poorly reamed chambers, poor barrel to bushing fit, poor bushing to frame fit, poor magazine release, poorly fitted hammer, bad sear spring... none of these things will be fixed by firing the gun mindlessly and wasting precious ammo And it's a mystery why manufacturers or owners even somehow think that shooting 500 rounds in a gun that's perpetually jamming is magically going to fix it. It's a sheer waste of time and money, and not something I'm willing to engage in. Either a 1911 works or it doesn't. Wasting a few hundred dollars worth of ammo was just going to make you poorer. It doesn't make a gun more reliable, accurate, or dependable. I completely agree. My experiences are the same. Even really tight guns will either work, or not work. The culprits for me have always been mistuned or fitted extractors. Granted I am more forgiving with new tight pistols. But if a problem persists very long something isn't right |
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My son's RIA 1911 is still tight after several hundred rounds. It's an amazingly well made pistol, especially for the money he paid for it. The break in period for a GI 1911 would be different from what you'd do with a custom gun. A GI gun should shoot fine out of the box with hardball ammo. A custom gun that has "NM" anywhere near it, not so much. You might need to fire a bunch of rounds to get it broken in properly.
With most guns "just shoot it" is the best break in process, and that usually applies to 1911s. When you start shooting a new 1911, you'll get metal from the bullet jacket smeared on the feed ramp. This "fully supported" feed ramp sounds like it's completely outside the chamber, so that's probably why they want you to break it in with FMJs - they'll smooth the edge on that feed ramp. Use quality ammunition and shoot it a lot. I usually suggest shooting it wet to start, to help overcome the extra friction inherent in newly manufactured parts rubbing against each other. |