Posted: 5/25/2007 8:05:28 PM EDT
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I checked the tacked threads and didn't see anything. How hard is it? I've done an FAL, an AK and several AR's. Am I equipped to handle it? I received an e-mail from these guys today with cosmetically blemished frames and such: www.fosterind.com/ |
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They are not hard to assemble but unlike ARs and most FALs there can be quite a few parts that need hand fitting. If you are going for an ultra accurate one then the learning curve could be steep since fitting the barrel and bushing to the slide requires some work. Like anything it depends on how deeply you want to get into it. Do you want to lean how to checker the frame? Install a beavertail safety? Do machine work on the frame and slide? Or maybe a basic build with minimal fitting? You may need to buy or make a few special tools such as a plunger tube staking tool. I am just finishing my first ground up stripped frame build and will be taking it to the range tuesday for it's first time to test fire. If everything goes as planned after the test fire I will strip it back down so I can finish all the parts. I have played with 1911 and added parts to them for awhile now but learned a lot on this one. Building mine was lots of fun and I got pretty creative with it compared to the typical snap together AR build. This site was a big help for me along with the 1911 book by Jerry kuhnausen www.blindhogg.com/index.html www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=13815&title=JERRY+KUHNHAUSEN+THE+U.S.+M1911%2fM1911A1+PISTOLS+A+SHOP+MANUAL |
I've built pretty much the same and have been eyeballing the cheap kits at sarco And inexpensive frames from sarco  and considering just building to tinker with a .45... I've only totally dissassembled my Llama mini max and tinkered with it thus far... I guess I'd want confirmation that I could do a build with hand files, a dremmel, and stones for fine fitting... |
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I believe the SARCO frames and slides are made by ARMSCOR of the PI, It is the basis for Rock Island pistols. I have a Rock Island Tactical, and I think the build quality is top notch for the price. I dont know about the rest of the parts (used, I assume), but the frame and slide ought to be ok. |
Short of the mill I used to do some fancy stuff on my build all that was needed were everything you listed plus a punch set and a vice with soft jaws and different grades oof sand paper. The saftey and trigger required some fitting but really even those didn't take long. The ejector took the longest to fit just because I wanted to make sure it would be tight against the frame so I would file a couple of strokes then check the fit. |
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I didnt know Foster was still around., I got a Foster frame in a trade a whiel back and built a damn nice pistol on it. Granted "nice" is relative, mine are blaster grade parts guns not finely tuned competion pistols or anything. A word of warning however to anyone considering using PI made slides/frames, it's been my experience that the metal is SOFT. I traded into one that was missing the front sight and bought a replacement sight. The dovetail was a lil different but no worries I thought just hit the slide with a center punch and draw up a lil metal for a friction fit. I dented the slide down instead of making a neat lil prick with some metal poking up, using a center punch and a light tap with a 16oz. hammer. Flipped the slide over and gave it a whack with a BRASS punch and drove it back up where it belonged. That was the last time I owned anything made in PI, I'm a huge fan of properly treated steel slides. As for American frames the best I could find retail was DoubleStar frames throughCenterfire systems in KY, $95 ea or so stripped. The only specialty tool I have for 1911s is a cheapie plunger tube staking tool from Brownells that ran me $25 or so. Everything else is standard punches and a gunsmith screw drive set. The only problem Ive had using stripped frames and drop in style parts was a grip screw bushing hole in the frame had some flash in it and I ruined at least 3 bushing before I took it to a gunsmith who ran a tap through it and cleaned it out for me at no charge. My next 1911 build will include buying a tap for the bushing hole. MMD IM inbound |
Which would you reccommend? The Foster or the DoubleStar? I looked at their websites and the Foster looks to be better. But what the hell do I know.  |
Well I traded into my Foster and I paid actual cash for the Doublestar. According tothe flyer the stainless Foster/Caspian frames are $150 IIRC, and I dont believe they are cut for the para/clark ramp at that price however I'm not 100%, and for an additional $40+- IIRC you cna have it cut. The Doublestars run $95-$100 and are not cut for a ramped barrel and there is no option to buy one cut. So if ya need a cut frame , then the Foster is the better choice OR if ya need a stainless frame, Foster again. If its strictly about price, the Doublestar wins etc etc. Foster is offering for $450 a "Sig GSR" frame and slide combo(made by Caspian obviously) for $450 which included the proprietary extractor(still needs fire control/barrel/sights small parts). Damn tempting, since a GSR is $800+. Hope this helps. |
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forster is just blemished caspians, your better off just to order a caspian and get it the way you like or if you want it now you can order them from brownells. I have heard good reports about the blemished frames being minor cosmetics etc most were hardly noticeable or buffed right out. . I got a Recon frame and love it. Have fit the slide myself, and the bevertail myself. I didnt buy a bag of used parts though, I picked up a tired old Colt and am using most of the parts off of it, was going to use a springer mil-spec but noticed the colt and got it instead. BTW going this route if I would have used every part off of the colt since I sold the frame for the recon frame I would just have $475 in it. not a heck of a lot of money. |
Can anyone tell me if Volume 1 is recommended as well as Volume 2? I mean do you recommend buying both, or is #2 just an updated #1? Here's the link: Volume 1 |