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AR15.COM
1/18/2007 8:25:04 AM EDT
Hey All I have a Springfield 1911 A1 Loaded .45 acp.  This is my first 1911 and I am having a hard time cleaning the carbon build up off of the feed ramps and the breech of the barrel.  Is there a trick or a better solvent?  I am currently using Remington Aeresol cleaner and a nylon brush.  

Thanks for any help!

Tim
1/18/2007 8:41:32 AM EDT
[#1]
I've always used a stainless steel wire brush.
1/18/2007 11:45:47 AM EDT
[#2]
mine come off using gun oil (fp-10) and a nylon brush.

Mpro 7 and a brush works as well.  Slowly I an getting rid of all the solvents and just using this stuff anymore.
1/18/2007 12:13:59 PM EDT
[#3]
1/18/2007 12:47:43 PM EDT
[#4]
I've never had any problems making my feed ramp crystal clean. Might be you need a bit stiffer brush? You're not using your wife's toothbrush are ya?????    
1/18/2007 1:11:21 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
www.precisionreloading.com/images/Hphop.jpg


+1

I've never needed more than some good cotton patches, Q-tips, a bore brush, and a healthy dose of Hoppes #9 to detail-clean a 1911..

1/18/2007 1:33:53 PM EDT
[#6]
There are two ways to remove dirt:  chemical and mechanical.  For feed ramp and breech face, there should be no need for mechanical cleaning (brushing, scraping).  Chemicals should do it.  If solvent is not removing the grunge, just give it more time to work.  If you have to leave the solvent on for 10 minutes, or an hour, or overnight, so be it.  Give the solvent time to solve.

Gun-Scrubber is a very harsh product.  Basically carbon tetrachloride, I think.  Same stuff as Gunk-Out (carburetor cleaner).  Hella strong stuff if you are in a hurry.  Just be sure not to get any on you, or on anything else you don't want to blast.  Take it outside, wear old clothes, and use tons of newspaper to catch the runoff.

If you absolutely must scrub, try to use the softest scraper that works.  Old toothbrush with nylon bristles.  Bronze brush.  I'm afraid to use stainless brushes; I worry about using something harder than what I am trying to clean.
1/18/2007 6:25:39 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
There are two ways to remove dirt:  chemical and mechanical.  For feed ramp and breech face, there should be no need for mechanical cleaning (brushing, scraping).  Chemicals should do it.  If solvent is not removing the grunge, just give it more time to work.


Why not just scrub the shit of with 3 seconds worth of effort and forget the god damned chemical mess?

I mean... of course I use my Hoppes to get the bore, but why fiddle fuck around with crap you can make short work of with a very little effort?
1/18/2007 8:17:06 PM EDT
[#8]
I use gun scrubber on all my other I plan tfirearms, then lube with CLP & Kellube.  I plan to do the same with my 1911 when I clean it. (just got my kimber on Tuesday)
1/18/2007 11:22:24 PM EDT
[#9]
Use a nylon brush for most tasks, with a solvent (Hoppes 9).  

If that doesn't work, use a bronze or brass bristle brush as they are still softer than steel.

Stainless steel is much too hard to recommend as a cleaning brush or for a bore brush.

Gunscrubber, carb cleaner, brake cleaner all dry out the metal (removes oil) and you have to apply an oil to prevent corrosion.  Hoppes 9 does not dry out the metal.
1/19/2007 2:53:50 AM EDT
[#10]

Quoted:

Quoted:
There are two ways to remove dirt:  chemical and mechanical.  For feed ramp and breech face, there should be no need for mechanical cleaning (brushing, scraping).  Chemicals should do it.  If solvent is not removing the grunge, just give it more time to work.


Why not just scrub the shit of with 3 seconds worth of effort and forget the god damned chemical mess?

I mean... of course I use my Hoppes to get the bore, but why fiddle fuck around with crap you can make short work of with a very little effort?


Nylon brush and fp-10 carbon comes right off. I never had the need to use any material harder than nylon to clean up a 1911 frame. Well once I used a 1,500 psi pressure washer on a used commander I just picked up, now that was short work.
1/19/2007 4:47:10 AM EDT
[#11]
Ecellent!  Thanks guys I thought I might not be using the right cleaner.  I don't think that Remy crap is a solvent at all.  It works well on my M9 but I always use Winchester white box ammo through it and that stuff shoots very clean.  I was a little worried about using a S.S. brush too but whatever floats your boat I guess.  I will have to pick up some Hoppes and FP10 see what works best for me.  I can always count on you guys to help a guy out!

Thanks
Tim
1/19/2007 9:06:58 AM EDT
[#12]

Quoted:

Quoted:
www.precisionreloading.com/images/Hphop.jpg
+1
I've never needed more than some good cotton patches, Q-tips, a bore brush, and a healthy dose of Hoppes #9 to detail-clean a 1911..
+2
1/19/2007 4:28:49 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:

Gun-Scrubber is a very harsh product.  Basically carbon tetrachloride, I think.  Same stuff as Gunk-Out (carburetor cleaner).  



Uhm, no.

Carb cleaner WILL eat any type of polymer in a gun, including the frame. However, Gun Scrub IS similiar to brake cleaner. Regardless, Gun Scrub will not harm a gun, its finish nor polymer frames.  
1/19/2007 7:03:53 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Ecellent!  Thanks guys I thought I might not be using the right cleaner.  I don't think that Remy crap is a solvent at all.  It works well on my M9 but I always use Winchester white box ammo through it and that stuff shoots very clean.  I was a little worried about using a S.S. brush too but whatever floats your boat I guess.  I will have to pick up some Hoppes and FP10 see what works best for me.  I can always count on you guys to help a guy out!

Thanks
Tim


Hoppes will work better than fp-10. fp-10 is just an oil. Hoppes no. 9 is a solvent.

I just fp-10 for my normall cleanings, kind of like  Break Free CLP.
1/19/2007 9:03:17 PM EDT
[#15]
Hoppes on a rag should get it. I only  use a brush to get to the small places. I  have a nylon brush(either by Kleenbore or Otis) that has a small end on it, works great for getting those edges.
1/28/2007 6:10:06 AM EDT
[#16]
Thank you everyone!!  I used Hoppes 9 Powder Solvent and no scrubbing was even necessary it just wiped right off.  There were some places that needed to sit for awhile but then they just wiped clean too.  That Remington Bright Bore sucks.  Thanks again!

Tim