Posted: 2/6/2005 9:16:32 PM EDT
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I'm thinking about building a 1911 but I want a black finish I want to start with a caspian reciever and slide, build everything else from there with probably a DPMS parts kit the hard part is, how do I make it black? Ive had a kimber totally stripped so I dont think I will have a problem, I just have no idea whats going on in the world of coating |
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That's a broad topic. There are sprayed on coatings that cure chemically over time, and there are heat cured coatings. I have yet to use Norells, but I have used Lauer DuraCoat. You will need a compressor and airbrush for this. Of the heat cured ones, I've used Brownells baking laquer, Brownells teflon moly, and KG GunKote. They all work well, but I've found it's best to follow the instructions to the letter. Also, a little forethought will help in prep. Having a decent sized oven and the ability to hang your work with wires helps. The single biggest factor for me is degreasing. I bead blast all the guns I do, and then let them soak in acetone. I scrub them down, let them soak again, and I give them a final spray just prior to coating. I would suggest you try Brownells baking laquer first, only because it's cheap, and it has worked great for me. If it turns out bad, at least you did not waste very much money. |
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Duracoat does not need to be baked. The polyurathane is a two part mix, and the second part actavator sets it up without heating. You can heat the coating to force/speed up drying if you want to put the pistol back together short time, But the coating is dry to the touch in 1 hour, and ready for reassembling in 24 hours. |
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Quart of Polane T (two part with thinner), an air brush/prevail sprayer, and a quick trip to a metal shop to blast the parts will keep the project under $40, and you will have paint for Touch up when your done to deal with scratches for generations to come. And if you didn't know, Duracoat is Polane T. |
| Please pardon the hijack, I have a 1911 I am almost ready to color. Has anyone seen a 1911 in desert colors? I am thinking a brown/tan combo. I may paint it with model paint when I go out to test fire it. Hobbs, where are you in AZ? I may ask to recruit your help. Please e-mail if pics are available, I don't want to overtake this thread. Thanks, Lonny. |
| CONTACT HATECA. HE DOES MOLY FINISHING THAT IS TOP NOTCH. YOU CAN CONTACT HIM [email protected] |
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OK, coating is actually the easy part and has been covered pretty well. You have had your Kimber stripped so you don't think you will have a problem...? Do you have any idea what it takes to fit a 1911 from parts? Nothing like an AR or a Glock where you just drop the parts in and go... I'm sure you can do it, but be sure you know what you are getting into first... |
Norrell's is my favorite. I have used it on two 1911s and one Remington 1100 and have been more than satisfied. The only thing I can't say enough about is your prep work. Make sure its clean and wear rubber/latex gloves so you don't transfer your body oils back to the metal. 
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