Posted: 12/8/2008 10:53:30 AM EDT
| If I want to get a crisper trigger pull on my springer mil-spec, would replacing the hammer and sear be the way to go. Maybe a Les Baer hammer and sear kit??? or should I take it to a smith or something. Or...is there a bill springfield of 1911s that I can send it to? |
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If this is a pistol that you are attached to, then the best way to go is to buy the internals of your choice (hammer, sear, disconnector) and send it out to a reputable smith for a good trigger job. I prefer 3.5 pounds +/- .25 for a CCW, others like a 4-4.5# pull.
It won't be cheap to do it right, but it will be worth it if this is a pistol you use often. Some people have had luck with some drop-in pack. I have the misfortune of being spoiled by a "real" professional 3.5# trigger job, and my luck with DIY has kept me away from these chancy endeavours. |
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Quoted:
If this is a pistol that you are attached to, then the best way to go is to buy the internals of your choice (hammer, sear, disconnector) and send it out to a reputable smith for a good trigger job. I prefer 3.5 pounds +/- .25 for a CCW, others like a 4-4.5# pull. It won't be cheap to do it right, but it will be worth it if this is a pistol you use often. Some people have had luck with some drop-in pack. I have the misfortune of being spoiled by a "real" professional 3.5# trigger job, and my luck with DIY has kept me away from these chancy endeavours. Thanks, Who are some good smiths to send the parts to? my price range is 125 and under (preferably). |
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It's usually easy to get a substantially crisper and lighter trigger using the supplied Springfield parts. My Loaded had no secondary sear angle at all, and it was the creepiest trigger I've felt in a long time.
If you don't want to invest ~ $50 for the Ed Brown sear jig and a couple of stones, the next best option IMO would be to send it to the Springfield custom shop and tell them what you want. |
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Quoted:
It's usually easy to get a substantially crisper and lighter trigger using the supplied Springfield parts. My Loaded had no secondary sear angle at all, and it was the creepiest trigger I've felt in a long time. If you don't want to invest ~ $50 for the Ed Brown sear jig and a couple of stones, the next best option IMO would be to send it to the Springfield custom shop and tell them what you want. The advantage of DIY is saving the money and gaining tools and experience. The drawbacks are loosing money on ruined parts, tools you will never use again after fubaring something, and the cost to re-do it. The advantage of getting your own parts and sending it off to a good smith is that you will have the best quality parts and service that your money allows you to buy, but the cons are cost (and new parts alone will be your budget limit). Calling Springfield may be win-win, since you don't pay for parts, the factory warranty on those parts won't be voided, and it will enhance resale. The other problem with very reputable smiths is that they are jammed up with full house orders and a trigger job may be something they don't want to get their hands dirty with. I would definitely call Springfield first and see what they offer. You may also want to save a few more bucks and get a reliability job done so that shipping for both services is covered. |
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I'd have the smiff select and supply any necessary parts.
There are 'trigger jobs' and there are 'trigger jobs. I've heard of smiffs offering 'while you wait' 1911 trigger jobs at gun shows with 6 guys in line! I've experienced very poor, but light, trigger jobs that the owner thought was superb. The 'Catch 22' is that the guys doing the best work, are overbooked. I'd suggest the Springfield Custom Shop as the best compromise and value for the dollar. |
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Quoted:
The advantage of DIY is saving the money and gaining tools and experience. The drawbacks are loosing money on ruined parts, tools you will never use again after fubaring something, and the cost to re-do it. Yes. But chances are the gunsmith will shitcan the internals anyway (notwithstanding those "awesome Springfield MIM parts that are just as good as tool steel"), so you're not really out much there. Not really advocating DIY, just bringing it up as an option. |
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Your budget is almost enough to buy some really good drop in parts, that "should" be OK drop in. I like Extreme Engineering hammers, sears and disconnects. Very good finish on them. Tweak the spring a bit and your at 3 pounds or less, easy. Then again, it might skip on you thus requiring a 'smith anyway.
Or, you can pay the same money ($125ish) and have a smith tune your existing parts. That is, if he will. Some will not work on parts that are known to not last very long. Buy the best parts you can afford and never look back. |
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Try replacing the trigger itself.
The GI triggers are the worst I've ever seen! I put a Kings trigger in mine and just taking out the up and down slop that the OEM one had changed my trigger pull like night and day. Getting all the up and down slop out, puts all the pressure from your finger in ONE direction where it belongs. You will not believe the difference and all it costs is 20 bucks and 20 minutes! |
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Quoted:
Cylinder & Slide 1911 Style True Drop In Trigger Pull Sets 5 Piece Cylinder & Slide 1911 Style 3 Piece Drop In Sets I KNEW those would come up, and for good reason... The Baer kit would be fine too. Properly installed, any of the nicer packages will beat the snot of the stock unit. |
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Quoted:
I'd have the smiff select and supply any necessary parts. There are 'trigger jobs' and there are 'trigger jobs. I've heard of smiffs offering 'while you wait' 1911 trigger jobs at gun shows with 6 guys in line! I've experienced very poor, but light, trigger jobs that the owner thought was superb. The 'Catch 22' is that the guys doing the best work, are overbooked. I'd suggest the Springfield Custom Shop as the best compromise and value for the dollar. |