Posted: 8/25/2015 12:28:27 AM EDT
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Hello all, been thinking of doing this to my glock for a while but haven't found any youtube or dyi posts on it yet. Can any one post a video or detailed how to on the subject?
Here was a post with pics of the cut but not super detailed on how to. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_13/159878_I_got_brave_last_night___Glock_19_frame_mods.html |
I have a work in Progress thread going right now and I was thinking about doing these cuts. After hearing about how usefull they are vs just stippling I will go back and add the "accelerator" cuts. Maybe tonight or tomorow night. I will post the "how to" in my thread. 
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| I have put them on all my glocks. Used a dremel, some painters tape, different grades of sand paper, and steady hands. One tip I suggest is to not go any deeper than the frame walls. You have the bulge of material that you can remove, but at some point you will reach the level of the frame's wall, that is where I stop. Dremel to ge the majority of the material off, then finish with different grades of sand paper. |
| Yes, Just a sanding drum. Depending on how comfortable you are with a dremel, you could use one that has been worn a little bit at the fastest speed, or use a fresh one at the fastest speed. Either one will get you to the same result, just one is faster than the other. Be sure to take out your takedown bar, as it i will get in the way. To keep the frame from moving I do not suggest clamping it down in a vice, as you may risk warping your frame. I used gorilla tape to tape down my frame to a fixed flat surface. The painters tape to create the line you will follow to cut out the aggressor cut. |
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I love the cut on my 19, but the gun that needs it the most is my G43.
However, there's really not much if any of an indent there. I noticed Agency's G43s don't seem to have an accelerator cut (maybe it's just really shallow). Oddly, I think they still charge the same whether it's a small 43 or a 17. |
I dunno... I saw it here a few days ago and thought what a frakkin' great idea because I have big hands and liked the idea of a place to put my thumb. So I googled accelerator cut, looked at a bunch of pics and started in. First I stripped everything out of the frame then figured out a "reference" and made a line from the bottom of the trigger pin to the inside of the flat corner of the nose where the bulge meets that little ridge on the top. That way I could make it the same on both sides. Used a 1/2' rough drum on my Dremel and started removing material. When I got it to about where it was level with the little ridge to the front I used some small files, then sandpaper from 220 to 1000. Then I taped a bottom edge and started in with my soldering iron and made a patch of tiny stipples that are almost like skateboard tape. Took less than three hours to do both sides. Gonna see how it works tomorrow...
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Quoted:
I dunno... I saw it here a few days ago and thought what a frakkin' great idea because I have big hands and liked the idea of a place to put my thumb. So I googled accelerator cut, looked at a bunch of pics and started in. First I stripped everything out of the frame then figured out a "reference" and made a line from the bottom of the trigger pin to the inside of the flat corner of the nose where the bulge meets that little ridge on the top. That way I could make it the same on both sides. Used a 1/2' rough drum on my Dremel and started removing material. When I got it to about where it was level with the little ridge to the front I used some small files, then sandpaper from 220 to 1000. Then I taped a bottom edge and started in with my soldering iron and made a patch of tiny stipples that are almost like skateboard tape. Took less than three hours to do both sides. Gonna see how it works tomorrow... http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww215/skylane5sp/unnamed.jpg Looks clean. |
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Quoted:
Really simple to do using a dremel with the sanding attachment. It does make a big difference too. This. It is very simple to do. Can kinda see mine in this picture. I need to have my buddy refresh the stippling in that area. I hit it real quick but he is the one who done the rest of my stipple so I want it to match.  p2 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr
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I just did mine. Make sure you have really good light, such as a lamp right above the gun. It took some trial and error but these were my steps -
1) Remove the slide and slide lock. 2) Mark the line with a strait edge and razor blade cut. 3) Covered any part that I did not want to accidentally touch in duct tape. 4) Used a dremel to take off the majority of the stuff, but it leaves the surface uneven and the diagonal line cut not very square. 5) Level the surface and square the diagonal line with a medium file, then a very fine file. 6) Sand with emery cloth of various grits going from course to fine and then eventually 800 grit sand paper (the finest I could find at lowes). A one thing I would do differently would be to put the dremel at the lowest speed and hold it very steady. At the top of the diagonal cut you can see that the corner is more rounded than it should be because it slipped. 
Next I might move on to stippling it. |