[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Help... I screwed up badly (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/12/2015 11:35:44 AM EDT
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Quoted:
http://new3.fjcdn.com/comments/No+idea+what+the+meme+is+called+but+here+s+the+_1f2aff3c107306ab19036fe45f5929e7.jpg I need to see a pic of this so I can share it with the internet. I'd rather not be that guy... I guess it'll depend whether I can get it apart myself without breaking anything or not. |
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I'd rather not be that guy... I guess it'll depend whether I can get it apart myself without breaking anything or not. Quoted:
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http://new3.fjcdn.com/comments/No+idea+what+the+meme+is+called+but+here+s+the+_1f2aff3c107306ab19036fe45f5929e7.jpg I need to see a pic of this so I can share it with the internet. I'd rather not be that guy... I guess it'll depend whether I can get it apart myself without breaking anything or not. I gotta ask, were you trying to make one of those blindfolded strip/assemble videos for Youtube? |
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What you are probably going to have to do is remove the striker while the slide is to the rear. I'm guessing it won't completely go into battery so you can't strike it out normally. If you can get it to slide lock hold it there and remove the striker cover plate and striker. My $.02
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Quoted:
What you are probably going to have to do is remove the striker while the slide is to the rear. I'm guessing it won't completely go into battery so you can't strike it out normally. If you can get it to slide lock hold it there and remove the striker cover plate and striker. My $.02 ![]() Could he even get it to slide lock? The ejector will catch the barrel and the locking lug will still be sticking out of the ejection port... |
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Quoted: Could he even get it to slide lock? The ejector will catch the barrel and the locking lug will still be sticking out of the ejection port... Quoted: Quoted: What you are probably going to have to do is remove the striker while the slide is to the rear. I'm guessing it won't completely go into battery so you can't strike it out normally. If you can get it to slide lock hold it there and remove the striker cover plate and striker. My $.02 ![]() Could he even get it to slide lock? The ejector will catch the barrel and the locking lug will still be sticking out of the ejection port... |
| I saw pictures of a S&W (think it was a Shield) that was reassembled this way. Guy brought it into a local shop (ADCO) to ask why it wouldn't load. I guess he had no idea as to what he did. Crazy, but it does happen. I don't remember if, or how they got it apart. |
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Is the chamber loaded, or empty?
Where's the magazine? (It should be out of the pistol.) Is the trigger in its full forward position, or to the rear? If you depress the trigger will the striker lug slip off the TB's sear tab? (Because that's what usually prevents the slide from moving forward and letting go ....... Unless the back of the RSA is jammed up against the barrel; and THAT is what's locking everything together.) Usually this type of Glock snafu can be made to let go by gently holding the trigger to the rear; and, then, simply whacking the back of the slide (right on top of the cover plate) with the open palm of your hand. One or two good smacks should get the slide to release from the frame. If, for some reason, this doesn't work, AND the slide cannot be withdrawn far enough to the rear in order to allow you to depress the striker's spacer sleeve - and, thus, remove the striker and break the connection between it and the TB - then you're going to have to get really clever, and do something unorthodox. You will need to be able to withdraw the slide far enough to get the bottom of the slide cover to clear the top edge of the frame. Then, in the top right-hand corner of the slide plate cover you'll see a small, 'U' shaped, lever spring sitting inside of a small hole. Take a small (jeweler's) screwdriver and depress this spring by pushing against it from right to left. Use your support thumb to push down forcefully on the slide cover while you do this. The cover plate should, now, come off the slide. Once the striker is freed up, you should be able to easily separate the slide from the frame. Neither of the two slide cover plates I've seen removed this way appeared to suffer any damage; and I know, for a fact, that one of those Glocks fired several thousand rounds before the owner got a new (fancy) slide cover plate. Still, to insure absolute 100% reliability I think I'd install a new slide cover plate as a last step in this procedure. (It's a, 'nickel and dime' part.) Before you try anything else - IF THE CHAMBER ISN'T LOADED - try applying gentle pressure to the trigger, and whacking the back of the slide off the pistol by using the open palm of your hand. If the chamber IS LOADED don't screw around with it; take the pistol to a real honest-to-goodness gunsmith, instead; and let him do the job for you. |
The magazine was nowhere near the pistol during this snafu (I always make sure mags are far away when I'm cleaning, swapping parts or installing barrels upside down )
Trigger is to the rear, I'm thinking the RSA is hanging everything up. I'll try fiddling with things and remove the cover plate if things don't come apart first. |
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The magazine was nowhere near the pistol during this snafu (I always make sure mags are far away when I'm cleaning, swapping parts or installing barrels upside down )
Trigger is to the rear, I'm thinking the RSA is hanging everything up. I'll try fiddling with things and remove the cover plate if things don't come apart first. Then the trigger never had a chance to reset; and the trigger bar is still in its lower position! Do what I said and whack the back of the slide towards the front of the pistol. Nothing else should be necessary. I think you're, 'home free' on this one! |
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Quoted: Then the trigger never had a chance to reset; and the trigger bar is still in its lower position! Do what I said and whack the back of the slide towards the front of the pistol. Nothing else should be necessary. I think you're, 'home free' on this one! Quoted: Quoted: The magazine was nowhere near the pistol during this snafu (I always make sure mags are far away when I'm cleaning, swapping parts or installing barrels upside down )Trigger is to the rear, I'm thinking the RSA is hanging everything up. I'll try fiddling with things and remove the cover plate if things don't come apart first. Then the trigger never had a chance to reset; and the trigger bar is still in its lower position! Do what I said and whack the back of the slide towards the front of the pistol. Nothing else should be necessary. I think you're, 'home free' on this one! |
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lol... Turns out the RSA was binding everything up. I could see it was angled down while looking in the slide lock hole in the slide. I gently pushed it up with a fine screwdriver and everything came apart.
I'll post a pic later once I scrub the exif data from the iPotato picture. |
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lol... Turns out the RSA was binding everything up. I could see it was angled down while looking in the slide lock hole in the slide. I gently pushed it up with a fine screwdriver and everything came apart. I'll post a pic later once I scrub the exif data from the iPotato picture. Nobody cares about your exif data, you are not that interesting to the NSA, just post the pic |
Now just for clarity before you head to the range....pointy end goes forward....little circle thingy goes toward the back when you load your magazines.
That's an amazing feat, I never would have thought it was possible.....it's still somewhat hard to wrap your head around. I can honestly say I've never seen anything like that before...thanks for the lesson so I don't have to do it myself later. |
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Somehow when I quickly reassembled my G43 last night, I put the barrel in upside down and slapped it on the lower frame before sticking it back in the safe. I noticed it this morning and only had a minute to mess with it but it didn't want to come back apart. I didn't get a chance to take a picture, but the feed ramp, locking lugs, etc are sticking straight up out the ejection port The RSA is installed as well so I'm guessing that's part of what's binding things up and holding things together.
Suggestions other than switching to a sharp pointy stick? ETA: RSA was at an angle holding everything hostage. I gently pushed it up with a thin screwdriver and everything came apart. http://i.imgur.com/3oStJEs.jpg D'OH
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The RSA is installed as well so I'm guessing that's part of what's binding things up and holding things together.




