Posted: 1/30/2011 4:27:03 PM EDT
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How well does REAL parkerizing hold up? I've got some cheapo matte blued/semi-parkerized finish on a phillipine commander, and i'm going to send it off to get some work done––-and one of the refinish options is zinc-phosphate parkerizing. The parkerizing is substantially cheaper than some of the other finishes, and I'm thinking about it, but don't know how well the "real deal" holds up vs. this cheap stuff. Depending on where I send the gun to get the work done, the other finish options are bluing, or NP3/Roguard. My Kimber's got the NP3 combo, and it's decent stuff, but to get that done to it costs a whole pile more money (and I'm trying to avoid that). And I'm not sure how well bluing would hold up for an EDC/IWB piece, especially in the south. Thoughts? |
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Remington uses parkerizing on their Police guns and some special commercial guns.
They say that parkerizing is 60% more durable and rust resistant then bluing. Parkerizing real benefit is that the rough surface will hold oil better than a smooth surface. Use something like CLP Breakfree to soak the metal, let stand for 20 minutes and wipe off the excess. Every time you handle it, apply a little more to maintain the thin coat. Another option used by salt water duck hunters is to apply a coat of Johnson's Paste Wax and warm the metal with a hair dryer to melt it. The wax impregnates the rough surface and dries. Wipe off the excess and it's pretty water proof. |
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It's better than bluing, but inferior to most everything else.
I had a 98% Remington Rand that turned into a 75% gun with surface pitting when the old man put mine in a toolbox in the garage for 7 years up north in a temperate but dry state. when I performed finish CPR, flitz.took the dull powdery texture leaving a thin shiny sheen. |
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Quoted: I carried a parked 1911 for a short time. even with daily oiling, my sweat would cause it to rust. Park is wear resistant on flat surfaces, but rubs through on edges pretty quickly on guns handled daily. I refinished all of my 1911s by parkerizing first, then spraying with KG GunKote and baking them @ 300 degrees for an hour. While this finish is not as durable as say Tennifer(sp?), it is pretty tough when applied properly. I no long need be concerned with rust and that is good enough for me.How well does REAL parkerizing hold up? I've got some cheapo matte blued/semi-parkerized finish on a phillipine commander, and i'm going to send it off to get some work done––-and one of the refinish options is zinc-phosphate parkerizing. The parkerizing is substantially cheaper than some of the other finishes, and I'm thinking about it, but don't know how well the "real deal" holds up vs. this cheap stuff. Depending on where I send the gun to get the work done, the other finish options are bluing, or NP3/Roguard. My Kimber's got the NP3 combo, and it's decent stuff, but to get that done to it costs a whole pile more money (and I'm trying to avoid that). And I'm not sure how well bluing would hold up for an EDC/IWB piece, especially in the south. Thoughts? |
| I like it, but wish I had a different finish. Have had my Springer MilSpec for over two years now and it's got some holster wear on all the corners, marks/scratches, and it's wearing pretty good on the front strap from acids/oils in my skin. I am impressed with how it holds up and have yet to have any rust issues out of it. Hell, I have an Ithaca that's almost 70 years old and been in the Korean war that still looks amazing. Take care of it, and it will hold up just fine. |
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It's a lot better than bluing, but it's still not a super finish.
This is my GI after approximately 7 months of carry and 1,100rds. This was on my hip all summer while walking 10+ miles a day at work. The high points have been rubbed bare, but it stayed rather rust resistant the whole time (even though sweat was able to coat the entire left side of the pistol all day). Melonite and IonBond would be better (by far) but plain old Park can be pretty decent too. FYI, Springfield advertises their park as being the manganese phosphate variety (in contrast to what Mr. Warner posted above). The manganese is a little darker and is supposedly a little tougher, but I have no experience with the zinc phosphate.  Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Parkerizing works best when you add the modern moly coat epoxy paints to it. It acts like a super primer and holds the moly coat to the surface of the metal VERY well. My Hi Power was redone in 2006 and it is BARELY starting to show a bit of muzzle wear. The rest of the gun is still top notch. 
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Quoted:
Parkerizing works best when you add the modern moly coat epoxy paints to it. It acts like a super primer and holds the moly coat to the surface of the metal VERY well. My Hi Power was redone in 2006 and it is BARELY starting to show a bit of muzzle wear. The rest of the gun is still top notch. http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=786 How often are they drawn from a holster. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Parkerizing works best when you add the modern moly coat epoxy paints to it. It acts like a super primer and holds the moly coat to the surface of the metal VERY well. My Hi Power was redone in 2006 and it is BARELY starting to show a bit of muzzle wear. The rest of the gun is still top notch. http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=786 How often are they drawn from a holster. Excellent question: Both weapons are ONLY drawn from the holster when shooting or for cleaning. That is it. When they go in the safe, they stay in the leather. I only handle defensive weapons when practicing, shooting or for unloading and cleaning. I clean my carry guns about once every tow weeks OR more when I carrying a lot. The muzzle wear on the HP ( and it is strictly the edges ) is more from rubbing on my clothes ( I wear jeans and heavy duty shirts 90 percent of the time ) than anything else. The more direct answer to your question is that they are only drawn from the holser on average about once every two weeks. The wear is from clothes because I wear my weapons fairly tight to my body and the muzzle of the HP is exposed to my jeans and shirts when carried, unlike my 1911 which is fully covered by leather. |
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Quoted: So, after a calculable 104 draws from the holster, it's showing muzzle wear?Quoted: Quoted: Parkerizing works best when you add the modern moly coat epoxy paints to it. It acts like a super primer and holds the moly coat to the surface of the metal VERY well. My Hi Power was redone in 2006 and it is BARELY starting to show a bit of muzzle wear. The rest of the gun is still top notch. http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=786 How often are they drawn from a holster. Excellent question: Both weapons are ONLY drawn from the holster when shooting or for cleaning. That is it. When they go in the safe, they stay in the leather. I only handle defensive weapons when practicing, shooting or for unloading and cleaning. I clean my carry guns about once every tow weeks OR more when I carrying a lot. The muzzle wear on the HP ( and it is strictly the edges ) is more from rubbing on my clothes ( I wear jeans and heavy duty shirts 90 percent of the time ) than anything else. The more direct answer to your question is that they are only drawn from the holser on average about once every two weeks. The wear is from clothes because I wear my weapons fairly tight to my body and the muzzle of the HP is exposed to my jeans and shirts when carried, unlike my 1911 which is fully covered by leather. |
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Quoted: Quoted: So, after a calculable 104 draws from the holster, it's showing muzzle wear?Quoted: Quoted: Parkerizing works best when you add the modern moly coat epoxy paints to it. It acts like a super primer and holds the moly coat to the surface of the metal VERY well. My Hi Power was redone in 2006 and it is BARELY starting to show a bit of muzzle wear. The rest of the gun is still top notch. http://media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=786 How often are they drawn from a holster. Excellent question: Both weapons are ONLY drawn from the holster when shooting or for cleaning. That is it. When they go in the safe, they stay in the leather. I only handle defensive weapons when practicing, shooting or for unloading and cleaning. I clean my carry guns about once every tow weeks OR more when I carrying a lot. The muzzle wear on the HP ( and it is strictly the edges ) is more from rubbing on my clothes ( I wear jeans and heavy duty shirts 90 percent of the time ) than anything else. The more direct answer to your question is that they are only drawn from the holser on average about once every two weeks. The wear is from clothes because I wear my weapons fairly tight to my body and the muzzle of the HP is exposed to my jeans and shirts when carried, unlike my 1911 which is fully covered by leather. LOL..you should read my post more carefully. Read the part after where you hi-lited in read. It isn't the drawing. |