INGLIS is back!!!!! (Page 4 of 5)
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Originally Posted By Colt653: ARFCOM costing me money again. I added a DAWSON skinny fiber front sight, Cylinder & slide thumb safety, and some cheap G10 grips. I have to say, I'm a 1911 snob, and I'm impressed with the build quality of this gun. I see no MIM parts, everything is nicely machined and finished. I've put about 300 rounds of handloads through it, It feeds XTP and GOLD DOT "like butter". 100% reliable. Grips feel great, but I think this classic design needs something checkered. I like the LOK grips @BPR posted above. Thumb safety feels 1000 times better, took several disassemble/reassemble/check fit to get it. Slow and careful. Really neat to see how John Moses Browning and Dieudonné Saive desinged it without stealing the 1911 patent ( which was sold to Colt)  https://i.imgur.com/Ta0ZA2m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2hnqMcb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Jmt0CAw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ENnxIcv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OZrnI0s.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MIz3qFB.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eKYRlSe.jpg Im digging that manual safety. How easy was the install? |
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Originally Posted By NCPatrolAR: Im digging that manual safety. How easy was the install? @NCPatrolAR I used this video to detail strip it. I could see where to carefully remove the part of the safety that blocks the sear. It's similar ( but different) to fitting a 1911 safety, slow and careful, because if you remove too much, the gun will fire with the safety on, and you've ruined it. I took it apart and back together several times. I'd never done a BHP, so I went very slow and careful. I also used a zip tie to hold the hammer back while assembling it, trying to line up the ejector, sear, etc while under spring tension is a challenge. 19:50min on the video it was worth it  How to FULLY disassemble AND reassemble a Browning Hi Power (Hi-Power disassembly) |
Well, I’ve run into an issue with my Inglis. If I keep the trigger depressed after dropping the hammer and cycle the slide, the trigger will not trip the sear for the hammer on a subsequent shot. The hammer becomes dead until I cycle the slide again or push up from the bottom of the dust cover on the slide. Does anyone else have an issue on their Inglis guns? Just emailed the manufacturer, lets see how the warranty process is. 
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Originally Posted By Landsat8: Well, I’ve run into an issue with my Inglis. If I keep the trigger depressed after dropping the hammer and cycle the slide, the trigger will not trip the sear for the hammer on a subsequent shot. The hammer becomes dead until I cycle the slide again or push up from the bottom of the dust cover on the slide. Does anyone else have an issue on their Inglis guns? Just emailed the manufacturer, lets see how the warranty process is. Are you dropping the slide or riding it forward? Sounds like a disconnector issue. |
Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
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When I change out or rebuild firing components on a Hi Power, I sometimes run into this exact issue. What has worked for me is taking a little file and breaking the back corner of the trigger lever. Make it slope slightly towards the back of the gun. Go slow and put it back together and try it each time. Of course, your milage may vary. I do find that this is usually a non issue when actually firing the gun. And like Ohio mentioned, don't ride the slide back. |
I don't know how this works, but I nominate Joker and Fluffy for arfcom sainthood.
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Originally Posted By hollowhandle: When I change out or rebuild firing components on a Hi Power, I sometimes run into this exact issue. What has worked for me is taking a little file and breaking the back corner of the trigger lever. Make it slope slightly towards the back of the gun. Go slow and put it back together and try it each time. Of course, your milage may vary. I do find that this is usually a non issue when actually firing the gun. And like Ohio mentioned, don't ride the slide back. I believe you are on the right track, the trigger lever is too long and isn't resetting until he lifts the slide a bit. Fitting that should be a few minutes with a fine file, then polish. |
Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
SDS customer service got back to me and are sending a label to send it back. I’ve attached a video of the issue. Ignore the cinematography skills. I had to try and record the video by putting my phone in my shirt pocket.  Youtube Link |
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Originally Posted By Landsat8: SDS customer service got back to me and are sending a label to send it back. I’ve attached a video of the issue. Ignore the cinematography skills. I had to try and record the video by putting my phone in my shirt pocket. Youtube Link FYI You likely won’t receive an email telling you what was wrong. Just a return shipping notice The repair details will be detailed on paperwork with the gun |
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I recently purchased an Inglis P35 and had to send it back to SDS for inspection/repair. The issue is that the pistol would fail the click test. When I cocked the hammer, engaged the safety, and then pulled the trigger, I would hear a click and see the sear move upwards. When I disengaged the safety and then pulled the hammer back I would hear a click and see the sear move downwards. When I contacted SDS, which was a process in and of itself, they agreed that I should send it in. The only good news here is that they did provide a shipping label. I just received the pistol back today. Interestingly, they did not notify me by email ahead of time and it just showed up unannounced - fortunately I was home. Anyway, they didn't fix it - it still fails the click test. On the document they sent back with the pistol, they just said the following: "The firearm was inspected and it was found that all the ignition and safety components are within the manufacturers specs." So, what do you think? Can a Hi Power pistol be in spec and still fail the click test? Is it safe to shoot as is? |
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Over 1000 rounds now 100% reliable VERY HAPPY the gun feels wonderful Attached File Attached File Somebody asked about the made in turkey it’s bottom of dustcover Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Steve961: I recently purchased an Inglis P35 and had to send it back to SDS for inspection/repair. The issue is that the pistol would fail the click test. When I cocked the hammer, engaged the safety, and then pulled the trigger, I would hear a click and see the sear move upwards. When I disengaged the safety and then pulled the hammer back I would hear a click and see the sear move downwards. When I contacted SDS, which was a process in and of itself, they agreed that I should send it in. The only good news here is that they did provide a shipping label. I just received the pistol back today. Interestingly, they did not notify me by email ahead of time and it just showed up unannounced - fortunately I was home. Anyway, they didn't fix it - it still fails the click test. On the document they sent back with the pistol, they just said the following: "The firearm was inspected and it was found that all the ignition and safety components are within the manufacturers specs." So, what do you think? Can a Hi Power pistol be in spec and still fail the click test? Is it safe to shoot as is? I have read about the click test. I have Hi Powers that "pass" it, and Hi Powers that "fail" it. I don't think this test alone is a reasonable determination of the safe operation of the sear, safety, and hammer. Post 1 and 3 here cover it better than I can- https://highpowercollectors.proboards.com/thread/614/lieu-click-test-browning-powers I don't put a lot of faith in the simple "do you hear a click". I think this is an overblown issue. |
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Originally Posted By Steve961: I recently purchased an Inglis P35 and had to send it back to SDS for inspection/repair. The issue is that the pistol would fail the click test. When I cocked the hammer, engaged the safety, and then pulled the trigger, I would hear a click and see the sear move upwards. When I disengaged the safety and then pulled the hammer back I would hear a click and see the sear move downwards. When I contacted SDS, which was a process in and of itself, they agreed that I should send it in. The only good news here is that they did provide a shipping label. I just received the pistol back today. Interestingly, they did not notify me by email ahead of time and it just showed up unannounced - fortunately I was home. Anyway, they didn't fix it - it still fails the click test. On the document they sent back with the pistol, they just said the following: "The firearm was inspected and it was found that all the ignition and safety components are within the manufacturers specs." So, what do you think? Can a Hi Power pistol be in spec and still fail the click test? Is it safe to shoot as is? I’ve read that many hi powers fail that test and will still be safe. |
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Originally Posted By BPR: I don't put a lot of faith in the simple "do you hear a click". I think this is an overblown issue. Originally Posted By BPR: I don't put a lot of faith in the simple "do you hear a click". I think this is an overblown issue. Originally Posted By Ivan1: I’ve read that many hi powers fail that test and will still be safe. This is reassuring. Thanks. |
My L9A1. Fit and finish is excellent, however there were two issues out of the box. The trigger pull was scary light, average 3lbs. I replaced the sear spring with a factory spring, and it's around 7 now. I'll probably try a B&H sear spring when they come back in stock. And the extractor tension was horrible. It wouldn't hold onto a loaded round, with the slide off the pistol. I replaced the factory extractor, with C&S part. I had to widen the extractor channel in the slide, to get it too fit, and I had to remove some metal from the extractor stop "lug" surface to et the proper travel, but it function checks fine now. The grips are FN USA, from midwest gun works.
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Picked up the P-35N yesterday. First impressions are high, it looks good, has a very consistent 5.5 Lb. trigger pull, and passes the "click test". Sights are a nice FO front (though I'd like a slightly thinner blade) with blacked out U-notch in the rear.
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Originally Posted By D_Man: Picked up the P-35N yesterday. First impressions are high, it looks good, has a very consistent 5.5 Lb. trigger pull, and passes the "click test". Sights are a nice FO front (though I'd like a slightly thinner blade) with blacked out U-notch in the rear. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/157876/2356jh3jh-3371305.jpg @D_man how much was it? |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I got it at PSA for $399 +tax/etc. I linked it in this thread last week. Sort of curious about why they lowered the price on the nickel version and kept it higher on the black finished standard version? Did the nickel version come with wood or Black plastic grips? |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Sort of curious about why they lowered the price on the nickel version and kept it higher on the black finished standard version? Did the nickel version come with wood or Black plastic grips? I'd guess the nickel one might be a slower mover so the put it on sale to turn inventory. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: I got MecGars from Greg Cote, he had the nickel finish 15rd ones to match the pimptastic look. Originally Posted By D_Man: Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy: Thanks for the heads up on the PSA Inglis PSA has them for $379 right now, had to buy at that price. Best place for mags? This is the way. He is my first stop for magazines. |
Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy: Thanks for the heads up on the PSA Inglis—PSA has them for $379 right now, had to buy at that price. Best place for mags? I got Mec-Gar 13rd and 15rd mags for mine. https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440067 https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440050 https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440289 |
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Originally Posted By NCPatrolAR: FYI You likely won’t receive an email telling you what was wrong. Just a return shipping notice The repair details will be detailed on paperwork with the gun Originally Posted By NCPatrolAR: Originally Posted By Landsat8: SDS customer service got back to me and are sending a label to send it back. I’ve attached a video of the issue. Ignore the cinematography skills. I had to try and record the video by putting my phone in my shirt pocket. Youtube Link FYI You likely won’t receive an email telling you what was wrong. Just a return shipping notice The repair details will be detailed on paperwork with the gun I received the gun back from SDS a few weeks ago (three weeks turnaround, but I was out of the country). SDS replaced the slide and it works great now. Good customer service. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I like Lanbo's Armory and their cheap shipping. They also did me right when Fedex once lost a package from them. I got Mec-Gar 13rd and 15rd mags for mine. https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440067 https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440050 https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/765595440289 I like Cote and Lanbos. I ordered some nickel ones last Thursday night and they were delivered on Friday. Regular, cheap, shipping price. |
I don't know how this works, but I nominate Joker and Fluffy for arfcom sainthood.
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Picked mine up, looked it over, unboxed the mags I ordered and grabbed two boxes of 115 grain and hit the range over lunch. Shoots great, good trigger. I had ONE FTfeed on the first factory (blued) mag all others were problem free. Did I mention I didn't clean or wipe off excess oil from the gun or mags?  I was surprised how fun it was to shoot for a retro gun. Good purchase, don't hesitate to buy. |
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Originally Posted By BPR: Posted in the handgun forum- Finally took some pics of my Inglis. I had to relieve the LOK grips for the lanyard ring. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/44835/IMG_2072_jpeg-3306461.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/44835/IMG_2073_jpeg-3306463.JPG @BPR How thick are the LOK grips ? thanks |
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Originally Posted By Colt653: @BPR How thick are the LOK grips ? thanks I'll try to get a side by side picture with another Hi Power today. I got the palm swell because I had an amazon gift card and that's what were available. I'd get the thin if I was ordering direct from LOK. They feel great in the hand, but they are a little round. The checkering is pretty sharp- again, nice for shooting it, but you really need a t-shirt underneath to carry IWB. Here's a sxs comparison from their website- 
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Here’s a side by side of the lok palmswell and vz thin. Attached File |
| That case hardened one looks really neat. I have already owned a couple of Browning hi-powers though and eventually got rid of both of them because I didn't like the trigger reset. Now that I'm older I may be more willing to put up with the reset, especially for a case hardened version. |
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I ended up buying a P35 (black paint, wood grips, green fiber optic sight) and like it quite a bit. It really is a nice handling gun. I replaced the slide catch with one from a FEG since my left thumb was riding the dust cover and causing it to lock back on a not-empty magazine. I also bought a C&S safety which is much nicer than stock. I filed the sharp frame edge near the thumb safety. I couldn't do that to a $700 SA-35. This was digging into my thumb. I'm VERY happy with it! |
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Originally Posted By Colt653: ARFCOM costing me money again. I added a DAWSON skinny fiber front sight, Cylinder & slide thumb safety, and some cheap G10 grips. I have to say, I'm a 1911 snob, and I'm impressed with the build quality of this gun. I see no MIM parts, everything is nicely machined and finished. I've put about 300 rounds of handloads through it, It feeds XTP and GOLD DOT "like butter". 100% reliable. Grips feel great, but I think this classic design needs something checkered. I like the LOK grips @BPR posted above. Thumb safety feels 1000 times better, took several disassemble/reassemble/check fit to get it. Slow and careful. Really neat to see how John Moses Browning and Dieudonné Saive desinged it without stealing the 1911 patent ( which was sold to Colt) https://i.imgur.com/Ta0ZA2m.jpg https://i.imgur.com/2hnqMcb.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Jmt0CAw.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ENnxIcv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/OZrnI0s.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MIz3qFB.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eKYRlSe.jpg What size Dawson did you go with to match up with the factory rear? |
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Originally Posted By Rotundra: What size Dawson did you go with to match up with the factory rear? @Rotundra I measured the factory front sight, and ordered the same. .150" tall / .100" wide ( I like them skinny) copy/paste from order back in sept. 1 × Sight, for Browning® Hi-Power Mark III Pistols, Fiber Optic Front, by Dawson Precision® Sight Height & Width: .150" Tall x .100" Wide Ramped Serrated |
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Originally Posted By Colt653: @Rotundra I measured the factory front sight, and ordered the same. .150" tall / .100" wide ( I like them skinny) copy/paste from order back in sept. 1 × Sight, for Browning® Hi-Power Mark III Pistols, Fiber Optic Front, by Dawson Precision® Sight Height & Width: .150" Tall x .100" Wide Ramped Serrated I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but how is the point of impact, and what hold are you using? |
Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
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Originally Posted By Ohio: I hate to keep beating a dead horse, but how is the point of impact, and what hold are you using? When you replace a .150" tall sight with another .150" tall sight,.....it's the same. no trouble clanging the steel plates across the creek 
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Picked up one the Inglis P35 clones in brushed nickel a few months ago and finally got it out. Trigger a bit gritty , but overall good. Shot well other than it hates tula steel and magtec steel. Choked ever round. Multiple types of brass no issues. Ah well , fun to shoot the P35 BHP and keep the real one as a safe queen. |
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Your lanyard loop fell off. So did mine. 
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Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line?
--Swindle1984
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I'm tempted by the Inglis even though I've been burned twice by Turkish Hi Power clones. My first was a Girsan. It functioned perfectly with all ammo I tried, but it grouped at 15 yds. like an 18" 12 ga. with 00 buck. Besides, it had that goofy front sight. Next was my Springer SA35. It won't cycle a full mag with any brands, bullet wts. or mags that I tied. I replaced the extractor, extractor spring and recoil spring from C&S. No improvement, in fact, it seems to be getting worse. Hi Powers have always been my favorite going back to the '60's. I've owned a half dozen Brownings over that period of time and I don't recall one ever having a failure. Being 18 yrs. retired, I can't justify the cost of a decent used Browning. Some of you seem to have some of the same issues with the Inglis that I've had with the SA35 and I'm literally sick of dealing with extraction issues. I just want a Hi Power that is functionally reliable and reasonably accurate without having to screw with it or sending it back for repairs. Is the 3rd time the charm? Should I risk it with an Inglis? |