Posted: 10/4/2009 3:56:23 PM EDT
| Major misconception with "stainless" guns. I've carried 10+ weapons as duty weapons (8-12 hours a day/close to the body/sweat, sometimes in the rain) in Houston heat. Have found that Blued/parkerized/matte blued/melonite/bruniton, etc. fares better than stainless. Stainless simply won't hold oil like these others. I only buy stainless weapons now if they're "blackened" so that they will better "hold" oil. |
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That's pretty bad. I have the same SS gun, but in 9mm and a manufacture date of 04. It is my carry piece and I also use an MTAC. The only place with the slightest showing of rust is in the logo after the serial number on the chamber. What is it, an eagle?
And I haven't given the gun a lick of oil in coming up on a year. Which reminds me, time to clean it. |
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Major misconception with "stainless" guns. I've carried 10+ weapons as duty weapons (8-12 hours a day/close to the body/sweat, sometimes in the rain) in Houston heat. Have found that Blued/parkerized/matte blued/melonite/bruniton, etc. fares better than stainless. Stainless simply won't hold oil like these others. I only buy stainless weapons now if they're "blackened" so that they will better "hold" oil. What about the hammer, extractor and the mainspring pin though? |
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This is the relationship with salt water (sweat) and steel. I got my USP .45 C stainless back in 2000 and carried it for years in a cheap nylon IWB holster, it was literally soaked with sweat at the end of everyday. I wiped the gun down with CLP each day. There were a several times I didn`t have access to any oil for a few days and rust like in your pics showed up on two spots. The slide stop and main spring pin. A tooth brush, clp and 15 seconds took it off.
The brown coloration on your extractor is common with H&Ks, mine was like that new and it isn`t rust. May be on yours but it just looks like the normal antique looking brown on them all. |
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There were a several times I didn`t have access to any oil for a few days and rust like in your pics showed up on two spots. The slide stop and main spring pin. A tooth brush, clp and 15 seconds took it off. CLP will not remove rust...it's not a rust remover. And if it did what you say it did the metal you have now exposed will rust again and it will be pitted. So there is no way to get back to square one unless you start with new parts. |
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How would you combat against this before it happens? Im about to start iwb ccw my hk. I don't see how there is a way to be honest. I baby all my firearms and it happened to me. I believe either the quality of metal being used or the bluing is not sufficient, and the SS slide is another story in itself. If HK is not willing to help me then I will just go the NP3 route through Robar and get the entire friggin pistol coated in it. |
I talked to CS this morning and of course the shipping of my handgun is on me since they are the importer not the manufacturer....God how this reminds me of ATI in regards to the GSG
Anyhow, they will call me when they receive it and look it over. If they deem the slide is an issue, which if they don't I am gonna be pissed....they will replace it with a blued slide since they don't make stainless USPC .45's anymore. So this is a bit weak IMHO because I bought the fucking pistol because it had the SS slide and was different from my other 3 HK's. Other than that we will see how far they want to take their CS. I have high hopes, but at the same time I am not gonna get complacent. |
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I plated my slide with Metalife SS Chromium M, has the same appearance of SS but is stronger and prevents rust much better. Mine hasn’t rusted at all and I’ve ccw mine for almost 2 years. Metalife |
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Another misconception about stainless steel, it isn't.
It's much more rust resistant than regular carbon steel, but it's not 100% "stainless". Tthe vanadium, and chromium etc, that are alloyed in insta-oxidize in a fashion similar to the way aluminum does in a hard clear mineral oxide. The microscopic iron/steel grains in the alloy can still corrode in in the traditional red rust fasion. Also, the stronger more tool-quality grades of stainless are less rust-resistant than the softer grades that are optimized for corrosion resistance. However the rust flakes can easily be scrubbed off, because there's more of the rust-proof grain-structure in the stainless matrix beneath it. A little scrubbing with a red pencil eraser will usually do the trick. Then, as others mentioned, I'd treat the slide with a wax, such as rennisance wax, or Birchwood Casey's "Sheath". The hammer and grip-frame pins are other types of steel, and just need oiling and upkeep. |
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There is a huge misconception that stainless will not rust. It will, it has always rusted, and it always will. It won't rust as fast as standard untreated (no super finish like HE) but it will rust. I know you don't want to hear it but it rusted because you did not take care of it. Throwing it in a safe with a dehumidifier (and golden rods are not really dehumidifiers, they heat the air to make it move so condensation does not form, they do not remove humidity). Stainless needs to be wiped down from time to time just like steel pistols. HK will tell you it is cosmetic only and they will do nothing under warranty nor should they. You dropped the ball in taking care of it; it is not HK's fault or a fault of the pistol. They can buff it for you and remove the the blemish but you will most likely pay for it. I have a a lot of stainless pistols and rifles and have had them for over 30 years, but you cannot put them in a safe and forget about them. They need to be taken out and oiled every few months or use a preservative like CLP Collector if you don't want to care for them more often. My carry pistol is a USPC .45 stainless and it gets wiped down every day when I carry it or once a week if it has been sitting for a while. You must take care of the things no matter what the finish. The extractor is not rusted. That is the look they take on usually after a few years of use.
Remember, no matter what the steel, sweat/water/salt water + steel + time = rust. There is no way around it. Even the HE and other super finishes will rust if neglected long enough. |
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There is a huge misconception that stainless will not rust. It will, it has always rusted, and it always will. It won't rust as fast as standard untreated (no super finish like HE) but it will rust. I know you don't want to hear it but it rusted because you did not take care of it. Throwing it in a safe with a dehumidifier (and golden rods are not really dehumidifiers, they heat the air to make it move so condensation does not form, they do not remove humidity). Stainless needs to be wiped down from time to time just like steel pistols. HK will tell you it is cosmetic only and they will do nothing under warranty nor should they. You dropped the ball in taking care of it; it is not HK's fault or a fault of the pistol. They can buff it for you and remove the the blemish but you will most likely pay for it. I have a a lot of stainless pistols and rifles and have had them for over 30 years, but you cannot put them in a safe and forget about them. They need to be taken out and oiled every few months or use a preservative like CLP Collector if you don't want to care for them more often. My carry pistol is a USPC .45 stainless and it gets wiped down every day when I carry it or once a week if it has been sitting for a while. You must take care of the things no matter what the finish. The extractor is not rusted. That is the look they take on usually after a few years of use. Remember, no matter what the steel, sweat/water/salt water + steel + time = rust. There is no way around it. Even the HE and other super finishes will rust if neglected long enough. I think his post is saying he didnt have issues until carrying it. Plus what about the other parts that rusted that are not part of the SS slide? Is halflife to remove is mainspring just to clean a pin so it wont rust? |
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Alright lets get down to business here....
To tell me I have not taken care of my handgun is pure bullshit, here....now...tomorrow it don't matter. That focking pistol has been lubed up after every shooting and when in the safe it has always been lubed with CLP. It's not like it sat in the safe for years and was left unattended, I mean comon how focking stupid do I look I collect firearms, not destroy them.
If everything is gonna rust then tell me why my POS G19 didn't rust anywhere after carrying it for 5 months I think you guys are missing the simple fact that if you remove rust with whatever, it leaves untreated metal below it. There will be pitting underneath the rust and it will rust all over again if not treated with a sealant. So to use an eraser gets me where Bottom line is the pile of HK has rusted, it is not my fault. If it's my fault then ask HK why they say the coating on the entire pistol is a "Hostile Environment" finish and should not rust at all, because this is what they said to me. If you call carrying it for 2 months in an M-Tac in Portland, OR a hostile environment then I would hate to see this same pistol down south
Now that we have covered the rust, what about the finish wearing off the slide? I suppose this is my fault too because I wanted to carry it right I mean comon....if it can't be carried and it can't be a safe queen then what fucking good is it I will be straight up honest, if HK does not come out and do right by me on this then I will sell it and never buy and HK product again. They may not give a shit, but you can take that to the bank... |
| its a fucking carry gun man. its not going to look great. if you carry a gun everyday sweat on it, bang it on shit, and walk around in the rain and humidity with it then shit is going to happen. throw some fucking oil on that sumbitch and shoot it!!!!!!!!!!! does it function properly??? because imho thats all that matters. just my .02 cent |
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its a fucking carry gun man. its not going to look great. if you carry a gun everyday sweat on it, bang it on shit, and walk around in the rain and humidity with it then shit is going to happen. throw some fucking oil on that sumbitch and shoot it!!!!!!!!!!! does it function properly??? because imho thats all that matters. just my .02 cent We all have our opinions, I appreciate yours but IMHO I don't carry a main sidearm that is going to fucking rust on me. It is not carried in the rain, the rust happened by my own body sweat that was evaporating around the gun when holstered. And it is not being banged on anything, all that is going wrong with it is purely in the shitty metal being used. And on top of that I didn't buy an HK to watch it rust. If I was gonna watch a handgun rust I would have saved myself some money and bought something cheaper. I just find it funny nobody really wants to be like OMFG, an HK rusted....WTF..... Explain to me how I can carry a G19 in the same holster, same fashion for 3 times as long as the HK and never lubed it...and it never had one spot of rust or wear on it. I am chalking it up to poor quality metal being used on the SS slide and other parts. Shit doesn't rust that fast and easy in a non-harsh environment without there being poor metal quality. |
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I just find it funny nobody really wants to be like OMFG, an HK rusted....WTF..... Explain to me how I can carry a G19 in the same holster, same fashion for 3 times as long as the HK and never lubed it...and it never had one spot of rust or wear on it. Is the G19 you have also SS, if not that would probably be why. SS is much more susceptible to rust than a slide with HE Finish. |
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I will say OMFG that your HK is rusting. Maybe just an OMG, because my experience is only one experience.
But I am truly surprised, because like I said I have the same gun but in 9mm and carry it in the same holster, and have been carrying it for about 20 months. I cleaned it last night (because of this thread), but that was the first time in near a year. No wipe downs, CLP, or anything more than taking a q-tip to the hammer area to get rid of lint. So something is causing your gun to be more susceptible to rust. One might think it could have been a bad metal batch, but I'm betting that's tightly controlled and your gun is not just rusting on the SS slide. Hard to imagine that batches would be bad for blued and SS parts in one gun. Do you need to talk to your doctor about perhaps having the most corrosive sweat in the world? Or is it possible that dehumidifier storage somehow ruined the finishes (even if the carrying is what rusted it)? Or stop using hydrochloric acid as a cleaner? I don't know, but it shouldn't be rusting like that, and if HK says it should never rust it should never rust and they should take care of it. But I'm really curious as to why it's rusting. I didn't even know the SS slide had a finish on it (mine is spotless), so it's not just rust, what's causing that? |
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Your Glock didn`t rust because of the treatment that is done to the steel. Glock is the exception and not common. Before I bought my USP I read about a test on HKs HE finish holding up to a 96 hour salt spray test. Even on a brand new gun with no wear I thought that was a stretch. I don`t put much stock in a companies adverts like that.
I`m not shocked about it because it happened to my USP, and it was my fault. It did fine with daily wipe downs, but I knew if I went a couple days of sweating on it and didn`t wipe it down that would likely happen. But, like I said it came off with a couple strokes with a tooth brush. Take a look at the face of your hammer, the finish is being worn off and that is bare metal. Even though this HE finish is probably a good one, it means nothing if it isn`t there. It will wear off with use, and if there isn`t a barrier of oil etc.. when sweat drops on it, well, you know what happens next. |
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I will say OMFG that your HK is rusting. Maybe just an OMG, because my experience is only one experience. But I am truly surprised, because like I said I have the same gun but in 9mm and carry it in the same holster, and have been carrying it for about 20 months. I cleaned it last night (because of this thread), but that was the first time in near a year. No wipe downs, CLP, or anything more than taking a q-tip to the hammer area to get rid of lint. So something is causing your gun to be more susceptible to rust. One might think it could have been a bad metal batch, but I'm betting that's tightly controlled and your gun is not just rusting on the SS slide. Hard to imagine that batches would be bad for blued and SS parts in one gun. Do you need to talk to your doctor about perhaps having the most corrosive sweat in the world? Or is it possible that dehumidifier storage somehow ruined the finishes (even if the carrying is what rusted it)? Or stop using hydrochloric acid as a cleaner? I don't know, but it shouldn't be rusting like that, and if HK says it should never rust it should never rust and they should take care of it. But I'm really curious as to why it's rusting. I didn't even know the SS slide had a finish on it (mine is spotless), so it's not just rust, what's causing that? I would like to know how it is rusting that easy and that fast too. Especially when it is lubed properly and stored properly. This is why I am questioning the whole "Anti-Hostile Environment" finish they claim to use, because if it is not suppose to rust than that sounds like it falls under the limited lifetime warranty. Even if you look past the rust issue they should be replacing the slide because the finish is wearing off. If that doesn't fall under a limited lifetime warranty I will be baffled. No matter how much you lube the slide that won't help at all in the process of the finish peeling off. They stopped making the SS slide in my model for a reason....I think I just found out
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I will say OMFG that your HK is rusting. Maybe just an OMG, because my experience is only one experience. But I am truly surprised, because like I said I have the same gun but in 9mm and carry it in the same holster, and have been carrying it for about 20 months. I cleaned it last night (because of this thread), but that was the first time in near a year. No wipe downs, CLP, or anything more than taking a q-tip to the hammer area to get rid of lint. So something is causing your gun to be more susceptible to rust. One might think it could have been a bad metal batch, but I'm betting that's tightly controlled and your gun is not just rusting on the SS slide. Hard to imagine that batches would be bad for blued and SS parts in one gun. Do you need to talk to your doctor about perhaps having the most corrosive sweat in the world? Or is it possible that dehumidifier storage somehow ruined the finishes (even if the carrying is what rusted it)? Or stop using hydrochloric acid as a cleaner? I don't know, but it shouldn't be rusting like that, and if HK says it should never rust it should never rust and they should take care of it. But I'm really curious as to why it's rusting. I didn't even know the SS slide had a finish on it (mine is spotless), so it's not just rust, what's causing that? Im going with this
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics.
I think you're making WAAAY too big a deal out of it. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. Where do you actually have rust? in the crevices of letters and a roll pin in the grip. Out of the way nooks and crannies that you didn't get oiled and they started to rust.You are carrying the gun and sweating on it. You didn't wipe it down enough and now you have rust. Alert the press. Sounds to me like instead of taking all the pictures, that time should have been better spent on PM. And for the guy who thinks HK should replace the slide because its "finish" is wearing off?!?!!? Come on, it is merely some holster wear. On a stainless gun you can easily buff it out. Pistols are hunks of steal with a purpose. If you use them they will show wear. If you neglect them they will rust. If you want them always pristine, don't carry or shoot them. |
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I would like to know how it is rusting that easy and that fast too. Especially when it is lubed properly and stored properly. This is why I am questioning the whole "Anti-Hostile Environment" finish they claim to use, because if it is not suppose to rust than that sounds like it falls under the limited lifetime warranty. Even if you look past the rust issue they should be replacing the slide because the finish is wearing off. If that doesn't fall under a limited lifetime warranty I will be baffled. No matter how much you lube the slide that won't help at all in the process of the finish peeling off. They stopped making the SS slide in my model for a reason....I think I just found out ![]() Do you have a link about the finish on the SS slide, because I had originally thought the SS slides were just bare SS? Which could make it easy to repair with just some simple blasting. And they didn't exactly stop making them, they just recently imported a new run of SS USP and USPc in .40 and .45. This is supposed to be the last batch, but they said that last time too. |
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. WOW, how you are wrong. My pistol was shipped back to me yesterday and Sam the head of repairs said it was rust and replaced it along with the lanyard loop pin and extractor. So how much rust have you actually dealt with in your lifetime Sounds to me like instead of taking all the pictures, that time should have been better spent on PM. Lame.......
And for the guy who thinks HK should replace the slide because its "finish" is wearing off?!?!!? Come on, it is merely some holster wear. On a stainless gun you can easily buff it out. That guy would be me....and the slide will not buff out. Again Sam the head of repairs said the only way to get a uniform finish is to glass bead blast it or use a walnut bead blasting to bring the shine down to a more dull effect. Again your knowledge is really lacking here...... |
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So to update with new info:
I dealt with Sam the head of repairs and warranty. He is a hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience and knowledge to share. I spoke with him for over an hour yesterday after he shipped my gun back and this is what he told me was done: 1) Extractor was replaced due to rust on it. 2) Hammer was replaced due to rust on it. 3) Lanyard loop pin was replaced due to rust on it. 4) SS slide was not replaced, the rust on it came off and Sam said the only way to get a uniform finish over the whole slide after wear has occurred is to bead blast the slide with glass beads or walnut shells. He has the capability of doing this at their location, but HK has not authorized him to do this type of work. The SS slide is bare stainless, not coated with anything. This is in contrast with what other CS reps at HK told me. Sam appears to be the only one there who knows what he is talking about. He told me no SS slide has "Anti-Hostile Environment" coating on it. Only blued slides from their inception have had this type of coating on them, never stainless steel. He also told me one of their LEO departments in California who do beech patrol send in at least 2 HK's a month for the same reasons I have stated above that I am having. So I am not the only one with these issues, if it is happening to other LEO's then obviously I am not neglecting my gun like some people wish to think. The main thing Sam could not defend or argue against is the quality of metal being used on the parts rusting. There is a reason they are rusting so fast and that is due to the lack of quality in the metal. Same also said the only true really good finish out there these days that can hold up to daily carry is the tennifer finish on the Glocks.......LOL bet you didn't think you were gonna hear that
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I would like to know how it is rusting that easy and that fast too. Especially when it is lubed properly and stored properly. This is why I am questioning the whole "Anti-Hostile Environment" finish they claim to use, because if it is not suppose to rust than that sounds like it falls under the limited lifetime warranty. Even if you look past the rust issue they should be replacing the slide because the finish is wearing off. If that doesn't fall under a limited lifetime warranty I will be baffled. No matter how much you lube the slide that won't help at all in the process of the finish peeling off. They stopped making the SS slide in my model for a reason....I think I just found out ![]() And they didn't exactly stop making them, they just recently imported a new run of SS USP and USPc in .40 and .45. This is supposed to be the last batch, but they said that last time too. The problem with this is there are no replacement SS slides. If you do have a SS slide that needs replacing then you will only get a blued variant in return. So when I said they stopped making SS slides in my model I should have stated they stopped making SS replacement slides. |
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. WOW, how you are wrong. My pistol was shipped back to me yesterday and Sam the head of repairs said it was rust and replaced it along with the lanyard loop pin and extractor. So how much rust have you actually dealt with in your lifetime Sounds to me like instead of taking all the pictures, that time should have been better spent on PM. Lame.......
And for the guy who thinks HK should replace the slide because its "finish" is wearing off?!?!!? Come on, it is merely some holster wear. On a stainless gun you can easily buff it out. That guy would be me....and the slide will not buff out. Again Sam the head of repairs said the only way to get a uniform finish is to glass bead blast it or use a walnut bead blasting to bring the shine down to a more dull effect. Again your knowledge is really lacking here...... Oh well, guess I was wrong on the hammer and extractor, I must have seen too many posts of people complaining about rust on HK45 slide stops and hammers, when it was just due to the hardness of the parts not taking blue. I have a USP9c hammer with this brown tinge and it is not rust so I assumed it was the same. As for the stainless slide scratches and shine, if you bead blast it and make it uniform it's just going to get shiny/scratched again when you carry it. You can't completely stop holster wear. On another note, let's here it for HK customer service! Seems like they took care of your problem quickly and efficiently. |
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Good stuff. I've never had to test HK's customer service (though I may be testing Marlin's soon), but their response sounds like I can count on them if need ever arises. Good to hear everything was taken care of and quickly. No new slide, but I guess I was right about being able to just blast it and it should be good as new or better. I would just use a little more oil from now on. Oil it up, wipe it down, and then re-oil the trouble spots with a q-tip without a wipe down after that. That way touching your gun isn't a greasy mess, but your trouble spots are extra covered. You could also paint the lettering as many people do. There's a stickied thread on painting them at the HKpro forums. There's also many threads about different finishes, including some that would keep the SS look.
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. WOW, how you are wrong. My pistol was shipped back to me yesterday and Sam the head of repairs said it was rust and replaced it along with the lanyard loop pin and extractor. So how much rust have you actually dealt with in your lifetime Sounds to me like instead of taking all the pictures, that time should have been better spent on PM. Lame.......
And for the guy who thinks HK should replace the slide because its "finish" is wearing off?!?!!? Come on, it is merely some holster wear. On a stainless gun you can easily buff it out. That guy would be me....and the slide will not buff out. Again Sam the head of repairs said the only way to get a uniform finish is to glass bead blast it or use a walnut bead blasting to bring the shine down to a more dull effect. Again your knowledge is really lacking here...... As for the stainless slide scratches and shine, if you bead blast it and make it uniform it's just going to get shiny/scratched again when you carry it. You can't completely stop holster wear. I understand this, I suppose I just didn't expect that much holster wear that fast. Sam was just giving me an idea in case I decided I wanted to put in back in the safe and not carry it, therefore bead blasting it would be really my only choice to get that uniform look without re-coating it in something else. This is not really an option to me since it is my main carry gun and I am not willing to carry anything else but HK at this point in my life. On another note, let's here it for HK customer service! Seems like they took care of your problem quickly and efficiently. I agree completely on this. Their CS from Sam was exceptional and I suppose I could not have asked for more....except maybe a free compact tactical barrel |
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So to update with new info: I dealt with Sam the head of repairs and warranty. He is a hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience and knowledge to share. I spoke with him for over an hour yesterday after he shipped my gun back and this is what he told me was done: 1) Extractor was replaced due to rust on it. 2) Hammer was replaced due to rust on it. 3) Lanyard loop pin was replaced due to rust on it. 4) SS slide was not replaced, the rust on it came off and Sam said the only way to get a uniform finish over the whole slide after wear has occurred is to bead blast the slide with glass beads or walnut shells. He has the capability of doing this at their location, but HK has not authorized him to do this type of work. The SS slide is bare stainless, not coated with anything. This is in contrast with what other CS reps at HK told me. Sam appears to be the only one there who knows what he is talking about. He told me no SS slide has "Anti-Hostile Environment" coating on it. Only blued slides from their inception have had this type of coating on them, never stainless steel. He also told me one of their LEO departments in California who do beech patrol send in at least 2 HK's a month for the same reasons I have stated above that I am having. So I am not the only one with these issues, if it is happening to other LEO's then obviously I am not neglecting my gun like some people wish to think. The main thing Sam could not defend or argue against is the quality of metal being used on the parts rusting. There is a reason they are rusting so fast and that is due to the lack of quality in the metal. Same also said the only true really good finish out there these days that can hold up to daily carry is the tennifer finish on the Glocks.......LOL bet you didn't think you were gonna hear that ![]()
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So to update with new info: I dealt with Sam the head of repairs and warranty. He is a hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience and knowledge to share. I spoke with him for over an hour yesterday after he shipped my gun back and this is what he told me was done: 1) Extractor was replaced due to rust on it. 2) Hammer was replaced due to rust on it. 3) Lanyard loop pin was replaced due to rust on it. 4) SS slide was not replaced, the rust on it came off and Sam said the only way to get a uniform finish over the whole slide after wear has occurred is to bead blast the slide with glass beads or walnut shells. He has the capability of doing this at their location, but HK has not authorized him to do this type of work. The SS slide is bare stainless, not coated with anything. This is in contrast with what other CS reps at HK told me. Sam appears to be the only one there who knows what he is talking about. He told me no SS slide has "Anti-Hostile Environment" coating on it. Only blued slides from their inception have had this type of coating on them, never stainless steel. He also told me one of their LEO departments in California who do beech patrol send in at least 2 HK's a month for the same reasons I have stated above that I am having. So I am not the only one with these issues, if it is happening to other LEO's then obviously I am not neglecting my gun like some people wish to think. The main thing Sam could not defend or argue against is the quality of metal being used on the parts rusting. There is a reason they are rusting so fast and that is due to the lack of quality in the metal. Same also said the only true really good finish out there these days that can hold up to daily carry is the tennifer finish on the Glocks.......LOL bet you didn't think you were gonna hear that ![]()
Your gonna argue that Because I just talked to Sam again this morning and my extractor was not rusted, it just turned a plum color because of the grade of steel it is made of which is extremely hard. If the hammer and loop lanyard pin were made of more quality steel do you think they would be rusting that fast |
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So to update with new info: I dealt with Sam the head of repairs and warranty. He is a hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience and knowledge to share. I spoke with him for over an hour yesterday after he shipped my gun back and this is what he told me was done: 1) Extractor was replaced due to rust on it. 2) Hammer was replaced due to rust on it. 3) Lanyard loop pin was replaced due to rust on it. 4) SS slide was not replaced, the rust on it came off and Sam said the only way to get a uniform finish over the whole slide after wear has occurred is to bead blast the slide with glass beads or walnut shells. He has the capability of doing this at their location, but HK has not authorized him to do this type of work. The SS slide is bare stainless, not coated with anything. This is in contrast with what other CS reps at HK told me. Sam appears to be the only one there who knows what he is talking about. He told me no SS slide has "Anti-Hostile Environment" coating on it. Only blued slides from their inception have had this type of coating on them, never stainless steel. He also told me one of their LEO departments in California who do beech patrol send in at least 2 HK's a month for the same reasons I have stated above that I am having. So I am not the only one with these issues, if it is happening to other LEO's then obviously I am not neglecting my gun like some people wish to think. The main thing Sam could not defend or argue against is the quality of metal being used on the parts rusting. There is a reason they are rusting so fast and that is due to the lack of quality in the metal. Same also said the only true really good finish out there these days that can hold up to daily carry is the tennifer finish on the Glocks.......LOL bet you didn't think you were gonna hear that ![]()
Your gonna argue that Because I just talked to Sam again this morning and my extractor was not rusted, it just turned a plum color because of the grade of steel it is made of which is extremely hard. If the hammer and loop lanyard pin were made of more quality steel do you think they would be rusting that fast How the hell did you confuse the plum color the extractor turns with rust Mine has turned the same color and it looks nothing like rust. |
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So to update with new info: I dealt with Sam the head of repairs and warranty. He is a hell of a nice guy and has a lot of experience and knowledge to share. I spoke with him for over an hour yesterday after he shipped my gun back and this is what he told me was done: 1) Extractor was replaced due to rust on it. 2) Hammer was replaced due to rust on it. 3) Lanyard loop pin was replaced due to rust on it. 4) SS slide was not replaced, the rust on it came off and Sam said the only way to get a uniform finish over the whole slide after wear has occurred is to bead blast the slide with glass beads or walnut shells. He has the capability of doing this at their location, but HK has not authorized him to do this type of work. The SS slide is bare stainless, not coated with anything. This is in contrast with what other CS reps at HK told me. Sam appears to be the only one there who knows what he is talking about. He told me no SS slide has "Anti-Hostile Environment" coating on it. Only blued slides from their inception have had this type of coating on them, never stainless steel. He also told me one of their LEO departments in California who do beech patrol send in at least 2 HK's a month for the same reasons I have stated above that I am having. So I am not the only one with these issues, if it is happening to other LEO's then obviously I am not neglecting my gun like some people wish to think. The main thing Sam could not defend or argue against is the quality of metal being used on the parts rusting. There is a reason they are rusting so fast and that is due to the lack of quality in the metal. Same also said the only true really good finish out there these days that can hold up to daily carry is the tennifer finish on the Glocks.......LOL bet you didn't think you were gonna hear that ![]()
Your gonna argue that Because I just talked to Sam again this morning and my extractor was not rusted, it just turned a plum color because of the grade of steel it is made of which is extremely hard. If the hammer and loop lanyard pin were made of more quality steel do you think they would be rusting that fast How the hell did you confuse the plum color the extractor turns with rust Mine has turned the same color and it looks nothing like rust. It looked like rust to me because of the spotting, comon bro everyone's opinion on rust is different....look how many doubted me in the prior posts that there was even rust on the other parts |
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. WOW, how you are wrong. My pistol was shipped back to me yesterday and Sam the head of repairs said it was rust and replaced it along with the lanyard loop pin and extractor. So how much rust have you actually dealt with in your lifetime Looks like maybe I wasn't so far off the mark on the extractor "rust" after all. Apparently I have dealt with some rust in my lifetime. |
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I first read this post at work where I couldn't see the pics. Re-read it again tonight and could see the pics. The brownish tinge on the hammer is not rust. It is because the hardness of the part doesn't allow it to blue very well. Looks the same on the extractor. WOW, how you are wrong. My pistol was shipped back to me yesterday and Sam the head of repairs said it was rust and replaced it along with the lanyard loop pin and extractor. So how much rust have you actually dealt with in your lifetime Looks like maybe I wasn't so far off the mark on the extractor "rust" after all. Apparently I have dealt with some rust in my lifetime. Well you were right on one type of rust forming....but not the others....kudos to you.
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I use a Minotaur M-Tac holster to carry and the slide wear is on the side in which it meets leather and no plastic etc. That's pretty weak










