Posted: 7/22/2015 1:01:00 AM EDT
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I bought this PPK a few days ago for $350 with the original box, cleaning rod, manual and test target.
Knowing that its a used gun I would like to know if there something I should replace or look after? Which parts should I lube and not to lube? BTW the manual is very yellowish and some parts are faded which is why I'm asking this questions. Thanks in advance! 
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Lube the slide rails on the frame and slide and the outside of the barrel.
I recommend a good grease for those areas. Apply a thin coat of grease to the recoil spring. When replacing the recoil spring, make SURE the small end goes over the barrel and the wider end faces toward the muzzle. To remove the recoil spring, "Screw" and pull it off. Apply a thin coat of grease or oil to the hammer and sear contact areas, and the contact area of the draw bar to the sear. (Do these points with the grips off). The Walther's "like" to be run a little wetter with lube then many other guns. Unless you know for sure how many rounds have been fired, if it looks like more then a few, just go ahead and replace the recoil spring. Replace it with a FACTORY WEIGHT spring from Wolff Gun Springs. DO NOT use any extra-power springs, and do not use a lighter main spring. Attempting to lighten the trigger pull with a lighter spring almost always causes reliability problems. The way you treat the super heavy DA Walther trigger pull is to build up your trigger finger. not lighten the spring. After a while of getting used to it, you'll no longer notice it until you let someone else shoot it and they complain how heavy it is. You can get an online Walther owner's manual on Steve's Pages. However, it's down right now. |
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Quoted:
Lube the slide rails on the frame and slide and the outside of the barrel. I recommend a good grease for those areas. Apply a thin coat of grease to the recoil spring. When replacing the recoil spring, make SURE the small end goes over the barrel and the wider end faces toward the muzzle. To remove the recoil spring, "Screw" and pull it off. Apply a thin coat of grease or oil to the hammer and sear contact areas, and the contact area of the draw bar to the sear. (Do these points with the grips off). The Walther's "like" to be run a little wetter with lube then many other guns. Unless you know for sure how many rounds have been fired, if it looks like more then a few, just go ahead and replace the recoil spring. Replace it with a FACTORY WEIGHT spring from Wolff Gun Springs. DO NOT use any extra-power springs, and do not use a lighter main spring. Attempting to lighten the trigger pull with a lighter spring almost always causes reliability problems. The way you treat the super heavy DA Walther trigger pull is to build up your trigger finger. not lighten the spring. After a while of getting used to it, you'll no longer notice it until you let someone else shoot it and they complain how heavy it is. You can get an online Walther owner's manual on Steve's Pages. However, it's down right now. Very informational. Thank you. |
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Quoted:
Lube the slide rails on the frame and slide and the outside of the barrel. I recommend a good grease for those areas. Apply a thin coat of grease to the recoil spring. When replacing the recoil spring, make SURE the small end goes over the barrel and the wider end faces toward the muzzle. To remove the recoil spring, "Screw" and pull it off. Apply a thin coat of grease or oil to the hammer and sear contact areas, and the contact area of the draw bar to the sear. (Do these points with the grips off). The Walther's "like" to be run a little wetter with lube then many other guns. Unless you know for sure how many rounds have been fired, if it looks like more then a few, just go ahead and replace the recoil spring. Replace it with a FACTORY WEIGHT spring from Wolff Gun Springs. DO NOT use any extra-power springs, and do not use a lighter main spring. Attempting to lighten the trigger pull with a lighter spring almost always causes reliability problems. The way you treat the super heavy DA Walther trigger pull is to build up your trigger finger. not lighten the spring. After a while of getting used to it, you'll no longer notice it until you let someone else shoot it and they complain how heavy it is. You can get an online Walther owner's manual on Steve's Pages. However, it's down right now. Thanks for the tips! The recoil spring was backwards and now is properly lubed. I hope tomorrow I can test it at the range |
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The ejectors in the Interarms versions are very weak. They are cast aluminum parts, not machined, and they're thin and can break easily.
The .32 PPK/S I had many years ago just ran and ran without a problem. The new-in-box .380 PPK/S I bought earlier this year broke its ejector on the 50th round. Replacement ejectors are VERY hard to find. What's worse, neither the ejectors from the earlier German-made PPK nor the ejectors from the later Smith&Wesson PPK will fit. Start looking for a replacement now, and when you find one, put it away for when you need it. Other than that, they are fun to shoot. The recoiling slide will bite your hand -- but if it didn't, it wouldn't be a genuine Walther. 
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"The ejectors in the Interarms versions are very weak. They are cast aluminum parts, not machined, and they're thin and can break easily".
I've owned 3 Interarms PPK/s models, one early blue and two later stainless and I've worked on a fair number of them. I've never seen one with an aluminum ejector. I don't think aluminum would even work for a PP series ejector since it's not only the ejector it's also the slide stop and is subject to some stress and battering. |
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Quoted:
"The ejectors in the Interarms versions are very weak. They are cast aluminum parts, not machined, and they're thin and can break easily". I've owned 3 Interarms PPK/s models, one early blue and two later stainless and I've worked on a fair number of them. I've never seen one with an aluminum ejector. I don't think aluminum would even work for a PP series ejector since it's not only the ejector it's also the slide stop and is subject to some stress and battering. If it's not aluminum, then it's pot metal. And the one that broke in mine is definitely a cast part. Both it and the replacement for it look cheap, feel cheap, and weigh next to nothing. I've avoided shooting it because I no longer trust it. It's now an expensive safe queen. 
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