Posted: 7/20/2009 8:33:58 AM EDT
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In taking some Mother's metal polish, a rag and maybe some q-tips and gently hand polishing the slide and frame rails on a stainless 1911? What about the part of the slide that the disconnector slides on? I have noticed that by lightly greasing where the disconnector rides, the gun hand cycles smoother. Would I be hurting anything by hand polishing that area with a rag? 
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Quoted:
In taking some Mother's metal polish, a rag and maybe some q-tips and gently hand polishing the slide and frame rails on a stainless 1911? What about the part of the slide that the disconnector slides on? I have noticed that by lightly greasing where the disconnector rides, the gun hand cycles smoother. Would I be hurting anything by hand polishing that area with a rag? http://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/05100-05101.jpg Hey it's works great on motorcycle aluminum & cars also....lol |
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Polishing isn't going to hurt anything as long as you stay off the hammer hooks and the sear nose. When I do my action jobs, I run the trigger bow against the high polish wheel on both sides and the rear. I don't get crazy and take all the sub polish scratches out, but I give her a few seconds on each side and the back. I also high polish the bottom of the disconnector on both sides, but again, I don't polish so long as the geometry starts to change or round off. I'll high polish the head, again only to polish, not to remove significant material. I'll high polish the sear feet and the tips of the sear spring too.
Then I start stoning the sear and hammer hooks for a nice action job. Take care, hope that helps. Bob |
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Quoted:
Polishing isn't going to hurt anything as long as you stay off the hammer hooks and the sear nose. When I do my action jobs, I run the trigger bow against the high polish wheel on both sides and the rear. I don't get crazy and take all the sub polish scratches out, but I give her a few seconds on each side and the back. I also high polish the bottom of the disconnector on both sides, but again, I don't polish so long as the geometry starts to change or round off. I'll high polish the head, again only to polish, not to remove significant material. I'll high polish the sear feet and the tips of the sear spring too. Then I start stoning the sear and hammer hooks for a nice action job. Take care, hope that helps. Bob Thanks Bob! And thanks to everyone else for the input. 
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| I have a polish box with a can of Mothers, Dremel, jewlers rouge and Dremel polish tip kit. Also keep 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit wet\dry sandpaper, QTips, and 3M polish cloths. I don't have the shop set up that Bob has but do the same thing he does with Dremel and the felt cone tip found in Dremel polish set using rouge. Easy does it.... You can polish with wet\dry too. Either way I finish using the Mother's and 3M polish cloth. |
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Slide and frame rails? I can't see it accomplishing much except to loosen your frame/slide fit by a miniscule amount. If you want the gun to "feel" smoother as you hand cycle it, install a full length guide rod. Even while shooting my LW Commander (with factory full length guide rod) is nowhere near as smooth as my Government Models. I know I can't polish the anodized frame, but the slide.. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Slide and frame rails? I can't see it accomplishing much except to loosen your frame/slide fit by a miniscule amount. If you want the gun to "feel" smoother as you hand cycle it, install a full length guide rod. Even while shooting my LW Commander (with factory full length guide rod) is nowhere near as smooth as my Government Models. I know I can't polish the anodized frame, but the slide.. Well, I'd make sure it was the frame / slide fit causing the perceived roughness before I stared polishing anything. |