Posted: 2/13/2012 6:22:44 PM EDT
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If this is the Incorrect Place for Asking My Apologies
I just Recently picked up a Colt Python. It is in Wonderful Shape. However the previous owner only used Wadcutters and Never Cleaned or UnFouled the Barrel I tired the usual Hoppes #9 and Wipe Out in the Barrel (2 Hours) . Much Improvement There has to be Something more Effective out there Please Advise |
| Couple of different approaches. One is chemical as you've been trying. It can take awhile. I've sometimes left a bore wet overnight before to give the solvent time to work its way under the lead. A faster approach is mechanical. A little bit of copper 'chore-boy' scrubbing pad wrapped around a bore brush will eat lead right out. Worth a try and does no harm. |
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As above, be smart and buy a Lewis Lead Remover Kit from Brownell's.
The Lewis kit has been used by revolver shooters and many lead bullet auto shooters for a LONG time. It's the only way to really get the forcing cone cleaned of leading or carbon and copper fouling. The kit uses a rubber and brass plug device over which a brass mesh screen is mounted. The nut on the plug is backed off until it isn't quite touching the rubber plug and the T-handle rod is put down the bore. The plug device is screwed tightly on the rod and the rod is pulled out of the barrel. This pulls the leading out with it. Flick the leading off the brass screen and repeat. As the leading is removed, you can tighten the nut on the plug JUST a little to expand the rubber plug slightly. Over tighten and the rubber plug is ruined. After a few passes the leading is out, and you can use a standard bronze bore brush and solvent to remove any traces left in the corners of the rifling. The forcing cone is a critical area of a revolver and failing to get it clean can cause cracked forcing cones. The Lewis kit has an aluminum cone-shaped head that also has a brass screen stretched over it. The T-rod is inserted down the bore, the cone-shaped head is screwed tightly to the rod and the rod is pulled and rotated. This cuts all the leading and copper or carbon fouling off the forcing cone leaving it totally clean. When using either head, use the small round "wrench" to tighten the head on the T-rod. This prevents the brass screen from tearing out and makes them last much longer. For cylinders, you can use the Lewis kit, but I find that the job is much faster if you use bronze chamber brushes from Brownell's. These special brushes are much stiffer than bore brushes and usually one or two passes will clean even bad lead or copper fouling from a chamber. To use, insert into a chamber until part of the brush sticks out the front of the cylinder, then rotate the brush a couple of turns. Push the rest of the way through, then pull back out. This is usually enough to remove all fouling. The best part of the Lewis kit and bronze chamber brushes is that there's no chance of damaging an expensive and irreplaceable Python barrel or cylinder. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS-LEAD-REMOVER Note: On the page is a video demonstrating the Lewis kit. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1287/Product/BRONZE-RIFLE-PISTOL-CHAMBER-BRUSHES Expedient methods often work, but you don't want to take ANY chances with a Colt Python. These are out of production, barrels and cylinders are no longer available, and they just cost too much money to risk. |