Posted: 5/3/2014 4:17:49 PM EDT
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Hey guys, Here's my Fusion 1911 kit that I finally completed and got to shoot. Here's a parts list for anyone that's curious: -Fusion Firearms 45 5inch kit (w/ blued slide stop, end cap, barrel bushing, and recoil spring guide) (Novak sight cuts) -Fusion ejector and plunger tube -Ed Brown snakeskin MSH -Ed Brown memory groove beavertail and ambi thumb safety -Ed Brown heavy duty firing pin and Hardcore sear spring -Duragrips peanut grips -Wilson ultralight match trigger, tactical mag release, Bulletproof firing pin stop, Bulletproof extractor, -Novak fiber optic sights front and rear -Wilson 47CB 7 round mag -Cylinder & Slide MARSOC trigger pull kit and hammer strut -EGW pin set and mag catch lock My opinion of the Fusion kit is rather split after this gun. I have never felt a 1911 that was tighter than this gun, and none of the parts required much fitting. The trigger channel only needed a little filing, and somehow the hammer and sear holes were perfect and meant that the sear did not need to be filed for proper function. All pins fit perfectly, except the hammer pin into the hammer, which was quick to fix. But my opinion of Fusion dropped slightly after being told that the pistol would take 5 weeks to complete, and it finally showed up 10 weeks later (5 weeks late), and I was charged for 2 parts (ejector and plunger tube) to be installed even though I had never asked for them. I decided to just keep the pistol since those parts only cost $45 to get installed by Fusion. As for the finish, it is Cerakote burnt bronze for the frame, hammer strut, ejector, and plunger tube. The MSH, both safeties, slide, barrel, barrel bushing, hammer, slide stop, end cap, recoil spring guide, trigger, magazine catch, and the grip screws were Cerakote graphite black. The coating and safety fitting was done by American Arms Engineering in Michigan. To anyone looking for a gunsmith north of metro Detroit, I would highly recommend these guys. They answered emails, calls, and texts any time of the day, and the work was superb. Lastly, after taking it out and shooting it, there's only one issue I have with it. The slide stop will not engage after the last shot, and I'm thinking this is due to how tight the slide stop is fitted to the frame. I don't thing the magazine spring has enough power to push the slide stop up because of how tight it is. Anyone able to give me a pointer on how to correct this issue? Other than that, my only complaint is the thumb safety. I took the cheap route here, and it shows. The Ed Brown ambi safety is loose and doesn't seem very sturdy. I may upgrade to the Wilson Bulletproof safety eventually, but this one will work for now. |
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Quoted: http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa257/casexx6383/1911s/fusions-1.png slide To frame Fit Is What impressed Me most At First. Accuracy Is great To |
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Yea, these things really are TIGHT. Did you ever happen to have issues with the slide stop? Mine is do darn tight that the magazine follower won't engage it Quoted:
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http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa257/casexx6383/1911s/fusions-1.png slide To frame Fit Is What impressed Me most At First. Accuracy Is great To I actually read that in the post and was trying to remember. I put Wilson extended slide release on both and I know mine do not lock 100% but it is on my list of things to study. |
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Quoted: A really good looking pistol. Like the color and the MSH. Give us a report as to how she shoots.  So far I've only put 50 rounds through her. Haven't shot for groups on paper yet, only shot some wooden blocks and pop cans to make sure she functioned. Next box of ammo will probably be to see just how accurate it is.
As for the MSH, it was kind of just an impulse decision to get the snakeskin one instead of normal checkering to match the front strap, but I'm really happy with it. It is real grippy, but not too sharp that it hurts |
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How tight does the slide lock fit through the frame and the link? Does the follower engagement protrusion on the slide lock engage the follower correctly? It should have a nice bed of contact. Are you using an extra strength Wolff slide lock and safety spring? These are the first questions that I'd ask myself. Next, i noticed that you have Cerakoted parts...my P38 was a bit of a bitch and didn't lock back until the Cerakote started smoothing out. I'd work that slide lock like a mad monkey until it starts to break in against the CeraKote. Gorgeous gun, you go tthere!!! Here is the 10mm I built....to say it is accurate would be like saying a Ferrari is fast....a bit redundant:  This is the P38 that also had slide lock issues "post Cerakote"...now that it's broken in...it rocks.... '  Ya know...now that I think about it...this Fusion 10 was a bit stiff across the board until we broke it in.....we used Buffalo Bore 10mm ammo.....WHEW!!! |
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Quoted: How tight does the slide lock fit through the frame and the link? Does the follower engagement protrusion on the slide lock engage the follower correctly? It should have a nice bed of contact. Are you using an extra strength Wolff slide lock and safety spring? These are the first questions that I'd ask myself. Next, i noticed that you have Cerakoted parts...my P38 was a bit of a bitch and didn't lock back until the Cerakote started smoothing out. I'd work that slide lock like a mad monkey until it starts to break in against the CeraKote. Gorgeous gun, you go tthere!!! Here is the 10mm I built....to say it is accurate would be like saying a Ferrari is fast....a bit redundant: http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=51364 This is the P38 that also had slide lock issues "post Cerakote"...now that it's broken in...it rocks.... 'http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=55098 Ya know...now that I think about it...this Fusion 10 was a bit stiff across the board until we broke it in.....we used Buffalo Bore 10mm ammo.....WHEW!!! As for the plunger tube spring, I am indeed using a Wolff spring, but I think it was only a standard strength spring. That Fusion 10 is pretty slick looking. Has reliability been good for it so far? The P38 is absolutely beautiful! Looks brand spanking new
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Quoted: The slide lock fits rather nicely in the barrel link, not too tight and not too loose. The follower correctly contacts the protrusion from the slide lock. The slide lock will lock back if I line up the slide correctly and give the magazine a good smack on the bottom. This tells me that either the magazine spring is too weak to push the slide lock up (its a decent mag, Wilson 47CB), or the slide lock is just causing too much friction whether its with the frame or the plunger inside the plunger tube. As for the plunger tube spring, I am indeed using a Wolff spring, but I think it was only a standard strength spring. Quoted: Quoted: How tight does the slide lock fit through the frame and the link? Does the follower engagement protrusion on the slide lock engage the follower correctly? It should have a nice bed of contact. Are you using an extra strength Wolff slide lock and safety spring? These are the first questions that I'd ask myself. Next, i noticed that you have Cerakoted parts...my P38 was a bit of a bitch and didn't lock back until the Cerakote started smoothing out. I'd work that slide lock like a mad monkey until it starts to break in against the CeraKote. Gorgeous gun, you go tthere!!! Here is the 10mm I built....to say it is accurate would be like saying a Ferrari is fast....a bit redundant: http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=51364 This is the P38 that also had slide lock issues "post Cerakote"...now that it's broken in...it rocks.... 'http://www.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=55098 Ya know...now that I think about it...this Fusion 10 was a bit stiff across the board until we broke it in.....we used Buffalo Bore 10mm ammo.....WHEW!!! As for the plunger tube spring, I am indeed using a Wolff spring, but I think it was only a standard strength spring. That Fusion 10 is pretty slick looking. Has reliability been good for it so far? The P38 is absolutely beautiful! Looks brand spanking new One things I've learned is that 10mm pistols and mags are strange bedfellows. Interestingly, on a Colt 1911 in 45 ACP, the first thing I do is toss the Colt factory mags and run straight Wilson 47s...on a Delta Elite, I run nothing BUT Colt factory 10mm mags. One of those weird things, i guess. I love that P38 almost as much as I love a good 1911. If I'd known 25 or 30 years ago that I'd love the P38 ass much as I do...I'd have a slew of 'em. On your gun....beside time and breaking in, the only suggestion I have is to take some 1000 or 1500 grit automotive paper and a bit of oil and polish the face of the slide stop where it contacts the detent. CeraKote is insanely tough so you'll just be polishing it. You may also want to polish the body of the slide stop where it contacts the frame. Inn each case, the polishing you do wont be visible from the assembled point of view. I did this on my P38 and it worked VERY well. |