Posted: 5/2/2008 8:39:15 AM EDT
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I'm finaly fed up with the crappy trigger on my MKII and would like to do something about it. Any suggestions? |
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Remove the mag disconnect. Polish the transfer bar lifter that's attached to the trigger. Polish the groove above the trigger the transfer bar slides in. Polish the sear and hammer. Remove the spring behind the transfer bar (the spring that keeps the firing pin safety engaged.) If you pistol was made before '88, it won't have this spring. Or, send it off for a trigger job. If the pistol hasn't been shot much, put about 2K rounds through it and it will smooth up considerably. |
For some reason I missed that in my studies on this. Do you have something showing how to do that and where it is???? I didn't know about this.!!!!!! This doesn't render it unuseable? |
No Fricken way!!!!!! You got pics on this removal??? |
Here you go: http://230grain.com/showthread.php?t=1521 Its pretty easy. It has made my HP's trigger so much better. It'll get a trigger job soon enough though regardless. All autos should in my humble opinion. |
Have you tried what BPR is talking about? I don't even know what that is 
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No idea bro.... 
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Take the slide off the frame. There is a roll pin that runs horizontally through the slide in the middle of the serrations. Knock this pin out from left to right. The transfer bar will come out. At the front end of the transfer bar is a little spring. Remove this spring and put the transfer bar back in the slide. This is the spring that keeps the firing pin safety engaged until the trigger is pulled. It's unintentional effect is to increase the trigger pull because the lifter must overcome this spring force in addition to the sear spring force. It also forces the trigger to be reset farther because the position of the transfer bar at rest is lower. Again, if your HP is earlier than about '88, it doesn't have a firing pin safety and there is no spring to remove. Is that any clearer?  |
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Gun still has a half cock notch that the hammer will catch if the trigger is not depressed. I just removed the firing pin safety. What a difference it made in my gun! The pull is lighter and crisper and reset is shorter. The problem I have now noticed is when the slide cycles, the trigger moves back about 1/16 or more of an inch. That makes the overtravel and reset feel much longer. I am going to see in my gunsmith can solder a over travel stop on my trigger. I feel I would be satisfied with it's performance then! I'll wait to buy all the C-S parts down the road when I have a lot more money or a lot less projects! |
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Here's what Mr. Camp said on 1911forum about this mod: "Hello. Bryan 45: Some of the Mk II Hi Powers (later production guns though I do not know the dates) did have the internal firing pin safety. Mine did not and I was surprised when shooting a couple of these guns owned by friends and students to notice that they did have the safety. FWIW, not all Mk III pistols have the internal firing pin safety although most do appear to. What we call the Mk III is (at least at one time) called the Mk IIIs, the "s" designating the internal firing pin safety. Removing the spring on the spring-loaded sear lever seems to work better on some examples of the pistol than others. With the "paddle's" extra weight, I would pay particular attention to its possibly hitting the sear hard enough on pistols with light trigger pulls or imperfectly mated sear and hammer notches, falling to half-cock. I have not personally seen this with a Mk III having the sear lever spring removed but mention this as a possibility from something seen in the past. Decades ago, I decided that I wanted a really light trigger pull on a Hi Power. My 'smith accomodated me nicely with this but after shooting perhaps 1500 rounds, the hammer would fall to half-cock now and again. He fixed the problem by "spring-loading" the sear lever with a lightly powered spring, just enough to keep it from touching the sear, or at least retarding its downward push when the slide ran forward. It worked. Thus, I think that it might be a reason via reverse reasoning to watch for possible problems with the heavier sear lever should the spring be removed. Is it disabling a safety device? Well, yes but most of us will never shoot another person. If we intended to (and it was lawful), I don't think that this would be an issue that couldn't be overcome by a competent attorney. If the gun were dropped and managed to discharge and the bullet smacked a bystander, it might very well negatively affect our financial future as the internal firing pin block most likely would have prevented the gun's firing. I have not personally performed this modification. A "Plain Jane" 4 to 5-lb trigger pull that breaks cleanly for me is fine and I am able to meet my perceived performance requirements without removing the sear lever spring. Part of this might be because I am an "old time revolver shooter" as well. The folks that I've primarily seen really wanting lighter trigger pulls with shorter resets are dedicated 1911 shooters who are both really fast and scary accurate. Best." |
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I shot this particular HP in a USPSA match yesterday. It was about 120 rounds, 5 stages. No issues with function, I think the shortened reset helped my splits. Unfortunately, I had to shoot in Limited, so I hope the Minor scoring isn't going to drop me to low. But the gun shot beautifully. Yesterday reminded me why the HP is what I carry concealed. I used my Sparks IWB holster and leather mag carriers, I guess I'll see how I faired against the guys with $2K STIs and race holsters.... |
SWEET!!! |