Posted: 7/28/2011 1:22:58 PM EDT
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Lately I have been considering a 1911 purchase while Im underway. After doing some research it is evident that there are tons of availible options. What are some of the must have options that definately need to be on the purchase to ensure reliability. What are some things to look for when making a purchase? Is there a good option in the 600-800 dollar range? Do Springfield or Colt make a bad entry level gun? Also Taurus seems to have a 1911 with a lot of options, are they any good? And can someone school me on what A1 means and what do non A1s have that others do not or vice versa?
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A1 was just a change in model number in 1924 from the original version. A1 changes to the original design were minor and consisted of a shorter trigger, cutouts in the frame behind the trigger, an arched mainspring housing, a longer grip safety spur (to prevent hammer bite), a wider front sight, a shorter spur on the hammer, and simplified grip checkering by eliminating the "Double Diamond" reliefs. (from wikipedia)
As far as your questions about reliability in the $600-800 range, you'll be limited to a few options. Personally, I'd go with either a Springfield Milspec or loaded, or a used Colt series 70, or maybe one of the new Remingtons. Stay away from Taurus. The Springfields, Colts and Remingtons will have some parts you might want to eventually change out, but they should be great shooters out of the box. If you are trying to go ultra cheap in the 400-500$ range go with a Rock Island. |
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Quoted:
Lately I have been considering a 1911 purchase while Im underway. After doing some research it is evident that there are tons of availible options. What are some of the must have options that definately need to be on the purchase to ensure reliability. What are some things to look for when making a purchase? Is there a good option in the 600-800 dollar range? Do Springfield or Colt make a bad entry level gun? Also Taurus seems to have a 1911 with a lot of options, are they any good? And can someone school me on what A1 means and what do non A1s have that others do not or vice versa? Thank you The A1 designation was given to the post WW1 pistols. A lot of the changes are evident when compared side by side, different cuts in the frame and lowered ejection port, etc. For your price range I would go with a Springfield Loaded model. Accurate enough, solid built, reliable, night sites, good customer service from Springfield. The Range Officer would be equally well if you want the adjustable target sights. Ive got a Loaded and Light Weight Operator, both are solid guns. Ive handled a Taurus, fired about 400 rounds through a friends. Using Wilson mags and the supplied factory mag I had no issues. Hardly a rigorous test of reliablity, but it was comfortable and as accurate as I allowed it to be. The safety seemed a bit loose though, wanted to engage with the slightest of touch. Ive read a lot on this site about similar issues with the Taurus. I have no personal experience with Colt, besides the MKIV my dad bought when I was crawling away from vaccum cleaners. Whatever you get, be sure to get a supply of good mags. Wilson, Chip McCormikc, etc. |
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Quoted:
A1 was just a change in model number in 1924 from the original version. A1 changes to the original design were minor and consisted of a shorter trigger, cutouts in the frame behind the trigger, an arched mainspring housing, a longer grip safety spur (to prevent hammer bite), a wider front sight, a shorter spur on the hammer, and simplified grip checkering by eliminating the "Double Diamond" reliefs. (from wikipedia) As far as your questions about reliability in the $600-800 range, you'll be limited to a few options. Personally, I'd go with either a Springfield Milspec or loaded, or a used Colt series 70, or maybe one of the new Remingtons. Stay away from Taurus. The Springfields, Colts and Remingtons will have some parts you might want to eventually change out, but they should be great shooters out of the box. If you are trying to go ultra cheap in the 400-500$ range go with a Rock Island. This was well put. Colt, Springfield, Remington, all good starter guns. They can be customized later and it won't be like hanging a chandellier in a haunted house. The Taurus, while it's a nice little package for what you get, isn't what I'd consider a good gun. They're decent, don't get me wrong, but they're not going to be a gun you keep until you're an old man. The Colts, Remington's or Springfields might be. |
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So what upgrades/features are essential in durability and fuctionality? What are some of the first upgrades usually done to cheaper entry model 1911s. What is the verdict on sig 1911s? Can't say I have first hand experience with the SIgs, and if I don't have it first hand, I try to not comment. As far a reliability upgrades, any MIM (injection molded) parts are always good to replace. Things like safeties, slide stops, etc. Replace them with good forged parts machined from barstock like Wilson's bulletproof stuff. Some other things like lowered/flared ejection ports, polished feed ramps, trigger jobs and things like that can improve reliability when installed/smithed correctly. |
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Sorry for the continuation of Noob questions but can you school me on the difference in single/double and single only trigger pulls? Does that mean sigle actions only have the same trgger pull? Are 1911s known for smooth trigger pulls? A single action should have a consistent trigger pull. 1911 trigger pulls will probably vary with manufacturer, but a smooth trigger on a quality built gun will probably be transparent to anyone that doesnt shoot regularly. I suppose the same could be said of a nasty trigger pull, aside from obvious hang ups due to metal fouling or improper parts fitting. Double action is going to be a heavier and longer pull, heavier because its lifting the weight of a dropped hammer. Due to the increased effort, more movement will be imparted on the pistol. As a result a double action shot will most likely be less accurate unless the shooter has taken some time to practice this method. In most double action guns, all subsequent shots will be fired in the single action mode courtesy of the slide action keeping the hammer in the cocked position. |
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Lately I have been considering a 1911 purchase while Im underway. After doing some research it is evident that there are tons of availible options. What are some of the must have options that definately need to be on the purchase to ensure reliability. What are some things to look for when making a purchase? Is there a good option in the 600-800 dollar range? Do Springfield or Colt make a bad entry level gun? Also Taurus seems to have a 1911 with a lot of options, are they any good? And can someone school me on what A1 means and what do non A1s have that others do not or vice versa? Thank you The A1 designation was given to the post WW1 pistols. A lot of the changes are evident when compared side by side, different cuts in the frame and lowered ejection port, etc. For your price range I would go with a Springfield Loaded model. Accurate enough, solid built, reliable, night sites, good customer service from Springfield. The Range Officer would be equally well if you want the adjustable target sights. Ive got a Loaded and Light Weight Operator, both are solid guns. Ive handled a Taurus, fired about 400 rounds through a friends. Using Wilson mags and the supplied factory mag I had no issues. Hardly a rigorous test of reliablity, but it was comfortable and as accurate as I allowed it to be. The safety seemed a bit loose though, wanted to engage with the slightest of touch. Ive read a lot on this site about similar issues with the Taurus. I have no personal experience with Colt, besides the MKIV my dad bought when I was crawling away from vaccum cleaners. Whatever you get, be sure to get a supply of good mags. Wilson, Chip McCormikc, etc. This is good advice. Bad mags will make your 1911 run like crap. As far as which 1911, the suggestions in this thread are solid. Springfield is a good choice. |
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SiG's 1911s are true 1911s...very well built and thought of...they DO have the external extractor and the older one's were only available with a squarish SiG type slide...other than that...1911 pattern pistol...
Don't discount the Taurus...bargain prices for a forged slide and framed pistol built entirely in house and mine (PT1911AL) has been fine so far...they might not be as beautiful as the more expensive 1911 pattern pistols but at about half the price and a lifetime warranty...their 1911s at least are pretty nice... Lots to choose from...good luck with your choice. Bill |
I really have no serious complaints about my Taurus PT1911, it has performed flawlessly and for the price i paid I find it to be a solid value. The stainless finish is actually nice, not super shiny. Not loving the rollmark, but not hating it enought to do anything about it. And the stock grips are pretty lame.That being said, I would trade it for a new Ruger SR1911 in a heartbeat.
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The Colt Rail Guns, XSE, and Special Gov 1911's are a good safe place to start with 1911's.
The Colt 100yr GI repro 1911 is a nice 1911 as well if you're into base GI type 1911's. I've had good luck with the base model Kimbers. Custon, Pro, TLE. Avoid the high end guns from low end 1911 companies like K, SF, etc. If you can swing it, a Dan Wesson Valor is an excellent 1911 for a fair price. As are LesBaer 1911's. Those are worth every penny, but aren't too expensive to be practical like EB, W, F, etc. |
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Quoted: The Colt Rail Guns, XSE, and Special Gov 1911's are a good safe place to start with 1911's. The Colt 100yr GI repro 1911 is a nice 1911 as well if you're into base GI type 1911's. I've had good luck with the base model Kimbers. Custon, Pro, TLE. Avoid the high end guns from low end 1911 companies like K, SF, etc. If you can swing it, a Dan Wesson Valor is an excellent 1911 for a fair price. As are LesBaer 1911's. Those are worth every penny, but aren't too expensive to be practical like EB, W, F, etc. I know that the popularity of texting has altered the use of language. But it really isn't helpful to people just starting in the hobby. It really doesn't take that much time or effort to spell the word and it makes the exchange of useful information much more efficient. |
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while external extractors are blasphemy to most 1911 nuts, my S&W 1911 Gunsite has been an absolute tank. Shoots anything from steel case to my lee classic made (aka sketchy) reloads.
Got mine for ~$800 used but near NIB condition. Only major complaint i hear about the S&W (with mine included) is loose fitting triggers; however, its a $20 solution if a bit of wobble chaps your butt. Regular S&W 1911s can be had for less, but i thought the Gunsite raven was too cool to pass up S&W is made in 'merica 
Springfield pisses me off acting like an "all American" company. sum bitches are made in brazil. For that reason I vote against springfields. |
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Quoted: Most everyone knows the forgings are made in Brazil. The NM models are fitted and assembled in the US. Very good quality for the price, customer support second to none. I love my Springer, it's freakin bootiful.while external extractors are blasphemy to most 1911 nuts, my S&W 1911 Gunsite has been an absolute tank. Shoots anything from steel case to my lee classic made (aka sketchy) reloads. Got mine for ~$800 used but near NIB condition. Only major complaint i hear about the S&W (with mine included) is loose fitting triggers; however, its a $20 solution if a bit of wobble chaps your butt. Regular S&W 1911s can be had for less, but i thought the Gunsite raven was too cool to pass up S&W is made in 'merica Springfield pisses me off acting like an "all American" company. sum bitches are made in brazil. For that reason I vote against springfields. |
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I think i came to the conclusion that for the price point Im gonna get a Kimber custom II It has a lot of the features I want and Kimber is a decent company. Someone talk me out of it...... I have considered the Kimber TLE. But, having never owned a Kimber all I can say is that Ive read and SEEN more problems than good with them. Ive seen way too many at shooting ranges with issues, yesterday is a good example. Two guys with Springfields ran flawlessly, the Kimber was jamming. Im really hoping that is was a simple magazine issue. I pondered buying a Colt Rail Gun in the coming days. All the articles Ive read on them say nothing but great things, but then you read about people sending them back to Colt only to have it returned in disrepair. Its a gamble I guess. I have a Springfield LightWeight Operator, it was an impulse purchase when I couldnt find an MC Operator. I fired 1100 rounds through it over 3 range trips spanning a week. Twice, the slide failed to close all the way. This occured in the first 200 rounds or so, and Im attributing that to the new Wilson ETM's that I was breaking in with the gun. The Kimber could probably be gotten for the least amount of cash, followed by the MC Operator, then the Colt. As I recall. I wouldnt mind a Springfield TRP, but all the railed models Ive seen have the slide cut for the adjustable sights. I dont care for those. And they are closer to 1500, at which point you should just buy a top tier 1911 and be done with it. |
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What would most people choose and why? Kimber custom II , Springfield mil spec and Remington enhanced
And why does Kimber get so much hate? A lot of negative things get said about Kimber. The Kimber custom II seems to have a lot of features, am i just blind to something? |
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I think i came to the conclusion that for the price point Im gonna get a Kimber custom II It has a lot of the features I want and Kimber is a decent company. Someone talk me out of it...... I bought a Kimber Custom II a month ago. It is my first 1911 style pistol and I love it. 400 rounds so far with no issues. I'm using Chip McCormick 8 round power mags. I'm glad I didn't listen to the interwebz negativity about Kimbers and I wish I would have bought a 1911 sooner. Just make sure you use good mags and throw the stock one away. |
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Quoted: What would most people choose and why? Kimber custom II , Springfield mil spec and Remington enhanced And why does Kimber get so much hate? A lot of negative things get said about Kimber. The Kimber custom II seems to have a lot of features, am i just blind to something? I choose COLT or Springfield Armory. Because they work. And neither one is made in New York. Chuck Schumer is from New York ya know?! And so is Carolyn McCarthy. You know, that congress chick that wanted to ban guns with the shoulder thing that goes up? Yeah, her. New York. Just like Kimber. New York. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Sorry for the continuation of Noob questions but can you school me on the difference in single/double and single only trigger pulls? Does that mean sigle actions only have the same trgger pull? Are 1911s known for smooth trigger pulls? A single action should have a consistent trigger pull. 1911 trigger pulls will probably vary with manufacturer, but a smooth trigger on a quality built gun will probably be transparent to anyone that doesnt shoot regularly. I suppose the same could be said of a nasty trigger pull, aside from obvious hang ups due to metal fouling or improper parts fitting. Double action is going to be a heavier and longer pull, heavier because its lifting the weight of a dropped hammer. Due to the increased effort, more movement will be imparted on the pistol. As a result a double action shot will most likely be less accurate unless the shooter has taken some time to practice this method. In most double action guns, all subsequent shots will be fired in the single action mode courtesy of the slide action keeping the hammer in the cocked position. Apologies Aero, but I'm going to add a bit to this answer: Single action requires that the hammer be manually cocked prior to firing. On a 1911, cycling the action, or loading the pistol takes care of this. If the hammer is down, pulling the trigger will not cock and fire the pistol. Double action will cock and fire the gun. Hence, pulling the trigger performs two actions; cocking the hammer and firing. In general, double action triggers are longer not as 'crisp' as single action triggers. (Unless God has smiled upon you, and you own a Colt Python... ) Aero is correct, I'm just trying to add information. m |
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Quoted: What would most people choose and why? Kimber custom II , Springfield mil spec and Remington enhanced And why does Kimber get so much hate? A lot of negative things get said about Kimber. The Kimber custom II seems to have a lot of features, am i just blind to something? Kimber gets so much hate because Kimber uses a lot of MIM. Most 1911 aficionados are *not* fans of MIM, because only tool steel is acceptable. Honestly, I have pistols with both MIM and tool steel parts and all of them have been reliable. Get the pistol you like, at the price you are willing to pay. For what it's worth, I have a Kimber Classic Custom Target from about 1999 or so. I have been to Front Sight with it, and numerous local tactical classes. It has never failed me, and to this day is one of my favorite 1911s. I say this even though I have Ed Brown, Les Baer, and quite a few Colts to choose from. I'm not familiar with the Remington, but I do have a Springfield Mil-Spec. I like the Mil-Spec, but the Custom is a better built pistol. The Mil-Spec is still a decent choice, and you can take the savings from the Kimber and improve any parts you aren't happy with. Or, in my opinion, don't screw around a get a Springfield Range Officer for target use, or an Operator if you are looking into a carry pistol. (There are equivalent Kimbers as well...) Honestly, unless you buy crap, 1911s are decent pistols which can be modified from mild to wild depending on your budget. m ETA: I should add that you can get a pretty decent Colt for about the same prices as the Kimber. It might take a bit of research and patience. |