Posted: 12/4/2014 12:20:10 PM EDT
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First, let me say that the Gen4 G19's trigger isn't bad, but I do have one thing against it. The break when it fires is quite on the harsh side. You have to apply even more force to get past the break than needed to start pulling the trigger. As the trigger breaks, it comes back quickly, and the overtravel you get makes it literally impossible to not pull the gun down slightly. After several thousand dry fire practices, I cannot eliminate this slightly downward motion due to the character of the trigger's break. I want to change this. If I had to point to another handgun's trigger that I wanted it to be like, a good DA revolver is what I'd choose. I don't mind an 8 or 9 pound trigger as long as it's smooth throughout the pull, and doesn't have a harsh break that makes it almost impossible to not pull low. I would like opinions on what might be done. I have considered using a Glock minus connector and an NY1 spring. That might be deal with the harsh break, but I don't know what it would do for the overtravel. I was wondering if anyone has tried this setup and could comment on if it addresses the issues I'm wanting to solve. Or if there are alternative means to addressing those same issues. I'd also like to keep all Glock factory parts if possible. |
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I would talk to someone like these guys and see what they recommend.
As you probably know, there is quite a bit of interplay between the various springs in the Glock; making one lighter/heavier doesn't necessarily make the trigger lighter/heavier. I'm running (among other things) their DD 3.5lb connector and their competition and other springs; world of difference. |
| New connector and a spring kit is going to be about all you can do to make a Glock trigger better without getting a completely new drop in trigger assembly. It's a Glock, it's never going to have a truly amazing trigger like a high end 1911 or custom CZ, etc. All you can really do is learn to shoot it. |
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Quoted:
Ghost "Edge" connector will solve your problem. I disagree. I saw a guy in a class this weekend with a G34 and a Ghost connector in it. Had plenty of problems with it. I am not sure what all they were, but when I asked him wtf was going on with his gun, he said "I put a Ghost conn in it". Seems like one guy says that they are the best thing ever, and the next one has his gun ruined by it. Who knows? I feel like the best thing that you can do by messing around with aftermarket Glock triggers, is make the best gun there is, less reliable. I am not sure what happens with interchanging Glock oem parts though. OP, my triggers have smoothed out a lot with time. |
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Quoted:
I disagree. I saw a guy in a class this weekend with a G34 and a Ghost connector in it. Had plenty of problems with it. I am not sure what all they were, but when I asked him wtf was going on with his gun, he said "I put a Ghost conn in it". Seems like one guy says that they are the best thing ever, and the next one has his gun ruined by it. Who knows? I feel like the best thing that you can do by messing around with aftermarket Glock triggers, is make the best gun there is, less reliable. I am not sure what happens with interchanging Glock oem parts though. OP, my triggers have smoothed out a lot with time. Quoted:
Quoted:
Ghost "Edge" connector will solve your problem. I disagree. I saw a guy in a class this weekend with a G34 and a Ghost connector in it. Had plenty of problems with it. I am not sure what all they were, but when I asked him wtf was going on with his gun, he said "I put a Ghost conn in it". Seems like one guy says that they are the best thing ever, and the next one has his gun ruined by it. Who knows? I feel like the best thing that you can do by messing around with aftermarket Glock triggers, is make the best gun there is, less reliable. I am not sure what happens with interchanging Glock oem parts though. OP, my triggers have smoothed out a lot with time. What problems? I'm just saying change the connector. I don't see how that makes the gun non-functional. There are people out there, however, who change the connector, grind half the trigger bar off, change out all the springs to the latest 4oz weight super coils and then put it all back together wrong and blame the gun. |
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Yeah, I agree. He had reset problems with it as best I could tell. He wasn't my buddy. However, there have been plenty of people post here, about messing with trigger parts, and having problems. To each his own. If he was probably having reset problems he most likely installed the (S-spring) trigger return spring in wrong, its very easy to have it roll sideways. This in turn causes the spring to grind/bind across the ejector housing and not allow it to return the trigger to reset. Had it happen when I first started tinkering with my gen4 G19 and did not matter if it was a factory or aftermarket connector. The trigger bar has a little bent down place at the back of the crucifix that is notched so that the return spring should ride in the groove, its also easy to install the spring in backwards/upside down. |
This shows the trigger bar's between the GEN3 and GEN4's. I forgot to add that the Gen4's are the ones with the extra groove that helps center the trigger return spring. Just remember to check that when you start tinkering with your 19, the trigger bar should be able to move with very little resistance when the slide is off. I usually pull my slide off every once in a while and see how its all moving inside, you will notice immediately if your trigger bar or any parts are binding before installing top end. Email me if you have any questions and I will add some more tips on things I have learned from this message board to make my Glock's trigger feel pretty great for the money. |
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Quoted:
Yeah, I agree. He had reset problems with it as best I could tell. He wasn't my buddy. However, there have been plenty of people post here, about messing with trigger parts, and having problems. To each his own. About the only way parts swapping trigger components out will cause problems if the same individual can screw up making a package of top ramen. The only exception is light strikes caused by too light of a striker spring, but even then that isn't really a big deal to fix with the correct weight spring. |
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The best option to help minimize or eliminate what you are describing is to replace the trigger bar with a 3rd gen bar. The 4th gen triggers have a small tab on the dog ear that disengages the striker block. This causes drag on the inside of the slide and thus weights the trigger down. This tab is only there to keep the trigger bar aligned with the striker block if you switch the magazine release around for a lefty. The original 4th gen guns came with standard Glock connectors. This combined with the 4th gen trigger bar cause the added trigger weight. Glock came out with the "." dot connectors to help reduce the trigger weight, but it didn't help that much.
You are perfectly fine running 3rd gen triggers in your 4th gen pistols. I have them in all mine, along with polished standard Glock OEM connectors. I get a nice clean 4.5. to 4.8 pound pull out of all mine. They all have moderate take up, a distinct wall, and break clean. There are a ton of trigger options out there, but I like to keep all my fire control components OEM. FYI Glock or any aftermarket 3.5 connector has a different angle, that is what reduces the trigger weight. This also causes the trigger break to be slightly more forward than the standard connectors. It may be a slight amount, but it can make a difference. The one setup that I did run for a while with a 3.5 was using am OEM Glock 3.5 connector and a NY1 spring. This setup resembled a revolvers double action pull. There is a reason Ghost put over travel tabs on some of their connectors. The Dot connector, which is what you probably have in your pistol is also subject to this. Since the trigger breaks further forward , when it breaks, you have pronounce over travel causing your movement. The absolute best way to run a 3.5 connector is with an adjustable trigger Zev or something comparable. This would allow you to dial out most of the over travel. Going this route though and your talking about moving away from OEM and creating possible reliability issues. TXPO |