Posted: 10/29/2016 1:10:08 PM EDT
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I picked one up and here are my impressions thus far
First thing I noticed was how incredibly smooth the gun is. It reminds me of custom 1911s with how smooth it cycles. Next big thing I noticed was how tight the slide to frame fit is. I'm use to BHPs being on the looser side with some rattle. This one is tight with no slop. My dealer said Browning is making the frames and slides to NHCs specs. So I suppose they have increased the tolerances slightly. Serial number location is different and is on the right hand side dust cover, starts off NHC. The trigger breaks around 3.5 pounds. Leaning a little more to the 3 pound side. It does has a little creep. It may work itself out or it may just be nature of the beast for such a light trigger pull. One big thing to note on the trigger. It has minimal take up. Quite a bit less than my Novak. The sear lever pin location is moved when compared to my Novak. I assume they used something similar to the C&S unit. The barrel has been modified mainly for reliability. Polish and throate job on the chamber end. Muzzle is cut to match the slide. One interesting thing I noticed is they removed the nub that locks into the breech face. Beavertail is very nicely blended to the frame. You would think it came from browning this way. The sights sit alot lower than my Novak example. The gold bead really pops! Headed to the range now to try it out. Just a quick first impressions 
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When I send my hi power back out (long time from now) I would like to have the slide to frame fit tightened. Spoiled here with my Baer I guess. I'm not a fan of the texturing on the top of the slide. Actually I hate it  should have serrated the top or something...anything but that.
I would like to pick one up some day to add to my collection though. |
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Quoted:
When I send my hi power back out (long time from now) I would like to have the slide to frame fit tightened. Spoiled here with my Baer I guess. I'm not a fan of the texturing on the top of the slide. Actually I hate it should have serrated the top or something...anything but that.
I would like to pick one up some day to add to my collection though. Quoted:
When I send my hi power back out (long time from now) I would like to have the slide to frame fit tightened. Spoiled here with my Baer I guess. I'm not a fan of the texturing on the top of the slide. Actually I hate it should have serrated the top or something...anything but that.
I would like to pick one up some day to add to my collection though. Interesting, the stippling of the top I think is a nice feature. Something you don't see very often. My only complaints are the trigger has a touch of creep(Im gunna give this a few weeks and if it doesn't sort itself out Im sending it back for a polish) and that the beavertail is a wee bit long IMHO. 1/8" or so shaved from it and it would be absolutely perfect. But it shoots well, and looks good so I don't have any real complaints. Did I mention how smooth this thing is? It is literally the smoothest BHP I have ever shot or hand cycled |
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I did pop out the trigger spring to replace it with a 2 coil spring.
Much to my surprise it already had one in there, although it must have been tuned or something as it wasn't as strong as the one I put in. Brought the trigger up just very slightly, but with a better positive reset. Trigger is still sitting under 4# just ever so slightly. |
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Quoted: Considering FN stopped making .40 HP's years ago and the .40 is a dieing cartridge, that will never happen. Quoted: Quoted: Let me know when they make them in .40 S&W Considering FN stopped making .40 HP's years ago and the .40 is a dieing cartridge, that will never happen.  Hell, I'd send them mine. |
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Nice review. I've been considering picking up a beat down HP as a project to fill my time, while I recover from knee replacement.
I read the article in "Shooting Illistrated" Sept. 16. The price of the NHHP is over what I can afford at the moment. Only thing I may add to your review, the article states the pistols are pulled directly from the line. The frame to slide fitting is done by NH. One pistol smith works on each pistol, start to finish. That's some attention to detail. |
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Quoted:
Nice review. I've been considering picking up a beat down HP as a project to fill my time, while I recover from knee replacement. I read the article in "Shooting Illistrated" Sept. 16. The price of the NHHP is over what I can afford at the moment. Only thing I may add to your review, the article states the pistols are pulled directly from the line. The frame to slide fitting is done by NH. One pistol smith works on each pistol, start to finish. That's some attention to detail. I will say this They do more work than listed on their advertisement. I do not know why they do not list all the shit they do as that's a stupid way to market a high end pistol. But the upgrades such as the sear lever and it being in a different location, or the slide to frame fit. The trigger is starting to smooth itself out as well. Ive been messing with it every night dry firing it and its just about where it should be. I also got mine well below MSRP. Under 2600, I mean that's still very expensive, but its no 3K |
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$2,600, that's 5.9 HP's from AIM. I may just pick up a hammered one from them and see how close I can get. Not to pee on your thread, once I read the article, then saw your pistol, I fell back in love with the High Power. No not at all But its the same situation with cheap 1911 vs a hand built one. That's where the price comes into play |
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I think I'm the only person who doesn't see the need for the beaver tail. Coming from the 1911 and transitioning to the Novak BHP I have I noticed one thing during training. I ride the beavertail down during my draw stroke. I cant tell you how foreign it was for awhile and I would grip the gun too high resulting in malfunctions and also a cut up web. Now this BHPs beavertail is too long IMHO. That said I can now ride the beavertail down during the draw stroke, and it also does seem to lock the pistol in better for me. Largely a personal preference. I think it looks nice and serves a functional use for me, but again, is too long by about 1/8th a inch. |
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Quoted:
Coming from the 1911 and transitioning to the Novak BHP I have I noticed one thing during training. I ride the beavertail down during my draw stroke. I cant tell you how foreign it was for awhile and I would grip the gun too high resulting in malfunctions and also a cut up web. Now this BHPs beavertail is too long IMHO. That said I can now ride the beavertail down during the draw stroke, and it also does seem to lock the pistol in better for me. Largely a personal preference. I think it looks nice and serves a functional use for me, but again, is too long by about 1/8th a inch. Quoted:
Quoted:
I think I'm the only person who doesn't see the need for the beaver tail. Coming from the 1911 and transitioning to the Novak BHP I have I noticed one thing during training. I ride the beavertail down during my draw stroke. I cant tell you how foreign it was for awhile and I would grip the gun too high resulting in malfunctions and also a cut up web. Now this BHPs beavertail is too long IMHO. That said I can now ride the beavertail down during the draw stroke, and it also does seem to lock the pistol in better for me. Largely a personal preference. I think it looks nice and serves a functional use for me, but again, is too long by about 1/8th a inch. My very first 1911 was RIA GI version with no beaver tail, and I never experienced hammer bite. You do run your guns way harder than I do though. I've only shot my surplus BHP a few times but I've never gotten hammer bite from it either. I think both guns look better without the beaver tails, but I can see where they'd be functional. |
| Hey Chase, how are you gripping your HiPower? I'm assuming you do a high thumbs but does your support left thumb not ever contact the front of the slide stop and lock it back during recoil? I'm assuming not but kind of curious where you are putting your left thumb. |
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I think I'm the only person who doesn't see the need for the beaver tail. Had a beavertail added to my hi power as well. I have a very high grip when I shoot. Sure I could have went with a no bite hammer but it was out getting custom work done and, well, why not?  I wouldn't buy ( or keep stock) a 1911 without a beavertail either anymore.
Now on Sigs ( P series) yeah, I don't see the reason for them. |
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Hey Chase, how are you gripping your HiPower? I'm assuming you do a high thumbs but does your support left thumb not ever contact the front of the slide stop and lock it back during recoil? I'm assuming not but kind of curious where you are putting your left thumb. My support thumb is essentially on top of the slide. I have a very high hold I have gotten lazy and had that finger wonder during recoil and it has hit the slide stop dust cover causing it to prematurely lock back. As long as I am paying attention it doesn't happen |
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Yeah, I'm not crazy about this being possible when I don't want it to. I've changed my grip a few different times. When I used to shoot high thumbs or thumbs forward, I would put my left thumb underneath the slide stop. That may be what I do again. But I'm trying to simplify for sake of if I ever need to use it under stress. I carry my G26 mostly and with that I do like you say, my left thumb is high against the slide. Well if I transition to the HiPower, I need to actually change. For a while, when my main carry gun was a revolvers, I would just shoot thumb over thumb on my autos too. And It worked pretty well. But it doesn't overly well with the G26. And I shoot it much better with high thumbs.
One guy on the 1911 Forum actually cut down his HiPower slide stop. Basically made it look like a 1911 slide stop without the big front on it. I'm thinking about doing that. |
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Its gorgeous chase, like it better than the novak? Its ALOT smoother I honestly don't have enough trigger time with it to decide. The biggest thing I love about the Nighthawk vs the Novak is I no longer have to worry about rust, or atleast not near the degree I had to with the Novak. The only thing Im irked about is the trigger isn't as smooth as I like, but it is getting better with use. I no longer think its a error in polishing the face of the sear or the hammer, but possibly a high spot in the finish or perhaps the sear spring causing it to not be as smooth as I like. When I hold the hammer back and work the sear with the trigger I can feel the slight catch. I only have ~250 rounds or so through the Nighthawk. The magwell isn't near as beveled either, which makes reloading quickly a bit more of a chore. Its going to get a good workout this weekend however. 
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Quoted:
Its ALOT smoother I honestly don't have enough trigger time with it to decide. The biggest thing I love about the Nighthawk vs the Novak is I no longer have to worry about rust, or atleast not near the degree I had to with the Novak. The only thing Im irked about is the trigger isn't as smooth as I like, but it is getting better with use. I no longer think its a error in polishing the face of the sear or the hammer, but possibly a high spot in the finish or perhaps the sear spring causing it to not be as smooth as I like. When I hold the hammer back and work the sear with the trigger I can feel the slight catch. I only have ~250 rounds or so through the Nighthawk. The magwell isn't near as beveled either, which makes reloading quickly a bit more of a chore. Its going to get a good workout this weekend however. http://i.imgur.com/TA7IdX6.jpg |
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Chase, How about an update? Thanks It actually had to go back to NH for a few things. The front sight came loose. Luckily the roll pin holds everything in place so it couldn't run off. I also had them address the creep issue I have described in this thread since it never went away. Gun came back in roughly a week. New front sight and they stoned the sear again. Trigger is much better and sight doesn't seem to be going anywhere. I also put in a real safety. I just couldn't do the Browning ambi anymore, just don't like them. 
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