Posted: 1/18/2003 2:32:40 PM EDT
| I'm very new to revolvers, my most recent purchase being a S&W Model 19, which I've found to be a more enjoyable experience than my Kimber 1911. I've been pondering an open class gun, but until now haven't considered getting an open class revolver. I'm not quite sure where to start with an open class revolver as far as manufacturer, caliber, model, etc.. Any of y'all have suggestions? Thanks. |
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You might consider what Jerry Miculek uses. He's been pretty successful. Couple things to consider. You'll want to shoot a revolver set up for moon clips. I'd suggest starting with a used S&W 625 if you're familar with 45acp or even a M-25. Also check out the work done at TK Custom TK Custom |
| Mr. Miculek certainly has a good reputation in the revolver community. Does anyone out there have experience with the model 627, comped/magna ported/unported versions in either caliber and how they stack up against the 625? A couple of our shooters own 625s since they compete with 1911s as well, but how's that round do in a revolver? Same question with the .38 super round. |
The 45acp is far too good a round to waste in a semi-automatic. Once you experience the 45acp in a wheelgun you may just wonder why the 1911 was ever accepted for anything.  I gues my very favorite combo is the 45acp in a revolver with a 5 1/2 to 6" barrel. Unbelievably accurate and a real joy to shoot. I don't have a 627 but a mess of M-27s and M-28s. To get an idea imagine your M-19 sitting in a Ransome Rest and you'll have a glimpse of what the N frame Smiths are like. IMHO the N frame Smiths are the best revolvers made period, and I'm including the Colt Snakes in that. I'm not a big porting fan unless the gun is to be used solely for target shooting. And unfortunately, I've never met a wheelgun that wasn't one that I also wanted to carry at one time or the other for SD. Here's a couple of my N frame 357mags.    and some 45acps. 
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| Nice collection you have there. Though this might be another thread, I don't quite understand the frame designation of S&W revolvers. What's the difference in the J, K, and N frames (I think those are the different ones)? Also, what to you suggest as far as speedloaders, or do you go with moonclips? |
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If a gun can use moon-clip (headspac has to be correct) they are definitely the way to go. Loading using moon clips can be as fast or faster than changing a mag with practice. Here's the breakdown on S&W frame sizes. The J frames are the smallest, mostly pocket snubbies. The K frame is the mid size. The L frame is basically the same but the front strap has been strengthened and the forcing cone beefed up to handle a steady diet of full charge, light weight 357Mags, particularly the 125s. The K framed (M-19, M-66) had problems when used with lots of the 125gn 357s. The forcing cone wore and the front strap streached. It wasn't a big problem, more PR fight with Ruger, but anyway, the solved it with the L frames (M-686 and M-586). The N frames are the bigest and heaviest of the Smiths until the 50 comes out. It is beafier in every respect and will stand up to years and years of heavy duty 44Mag, etc. The 357 models are the M-27, M-28 and the M-627. My personal favorites are the M-27s. They were just plain beautiful, blue so deep you could fall in a drown, checking anywhere light dould reflect and tuned like something the PC wished it did today. The M-27 was a top of the line pistol, and priced like it. They introduced the M-28 Highway Patrolman as an option. it's the same gun but with a mat blue and without all the checking and hand fitting. Here are a few closeups so you can see the differences between the M-27 and the M-28.    |
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I have been competing with a M625 in IDPA competition for a few years. It's a very sweet gun. Some things you want to consider to make it run even better: - Chamfer the front of the cylinder. This ensures that the front of the cylinder doesn't come in contact with the barrel when you are closing it hard and fast, under pressure. - Have the chambers chamfered for quicker reloads. Make sure your gunsmith knows EXACTLY how far to do this. - Flex-hone the chambers if they are anything close to "rough". Brownells sells a brush for this purpose. - Buy NEW brass, just for this gun. If you pick up used range brass, eventually you'll get a few rounds that have expanded heads that won't fit into your gun after being resized. I have very tight chambers on my gun and it won't except about 20% of the "mixed" brass I use in my 1911. Besides, with the moon-clips, you rarely lose brass. -Ditch the rubber grips and install smooth wood. Rubber grips are more comfortable with very heavy loads, but they are too "sticky" for quick draws and speed reloads. If you grab the gun "wrong", it is very hard to get your grip right without actually letting go and regripping the gun. With smooth wood grips, the gun quickly "finds" the right place in your hand without "sticking" to your skin. Miculek grips from Bang Inc. are the best (but expensive). Smooth wood Hogues are OK too. -Berry's Manufacturing makes the ultimate bullet for 625 shooters. It is a copper-plated, hollow-based round nose, with the same profile as a 230 FMJ bullet. If you don't need the weight / momentum of a 230 grain FMJ, this bullet is perfect. My gunsmith is at www.sdmfabricating.com . He does an incredible job on S & W revolvers and 1911 autos. As far as the 627 is concerned, its an awesome shooter. I have had the pleasure of shooting the Performance Center version of this. The downside of this gun (and any other, non-.45 ACP revolver) is they just don't reload as fast. Because of the fact that there are two extra rounds, and .38 / .357 cartridges are relatively long and skinny compared to .45 ACP's, they just don't find the holes as quickly as in a 625. Because of this, they just aren't as forgiving when you are sloppy. The solution is to practice relentlessly, of course. |
| Thanks for the great input! For now, I've decided to go with a speedloader rig on my model 19 just to get the hang of things and find out if I really want to invest in a PC 625 and all the holsters and gear associated with it (I've found that I have more money dumped in holsters, ammo pouches, belts, grips, etc. just trying to figure out what works best). I'm still trying to get all the concepts down (practice practice practice) to be competetive, and I've heard chamfering the chamber in a few places, but no one seems to explain exactly what that is. Care to show me the light? Keep that great info rolling in! |
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Never fired a 10mm in a wheelgun, or a .40 either, for that matter, but to me, the 10mm is a pussycat in an auto...which points out how subjective "recoil" is...and my guess would be that it would be very easy to shoot in the S&W "N" frame platform of the 610...probably on the same order as the difference in .45a.c.p. loads from one type to another. Remember, with the revolver, there is no slide movement to add to the feeling of "recoil". As a side note...my experience has been that in many cases, what people perceive as recoil is actually sound. That is, be certain to have GOOD quality ear protection and try using both plugs and muffs with new shooters. This can help a great deal with, for instance, women who are a little hesitant about shooting a handgun for the first time. No slam, just an observation over thirty five or so years of pistol shooting. |
| I suppose I'm just used to the recoil of the .45 ACP. I had issues with the .357 sig round in a mid-size Glock too. I don't think it's the sound of it that's getting me. Small hands maybe? Thanks for all the info again. It'll definitely help me out if I decide to stick with revolver. I shoot my first match with the Model 19 on Thursday. |
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kuo34 I shoot a 610 in revolver class using 40 S&W. The only situation with mine is that it have a 6" barrel. I think the 4-5" barrels are better due to having less weight to swing. A friend had a 686 4" setup for moonclips and loves it. We just started last year with these and have several others wanting to try them. I am waiting for my 627 to come in. I plan on scoping it out and using it for steel matches. One sugestion if you do use speedloaders, try to geting either Maxfires or Safarilands comp II or III. The ones you have to turn will slow you down. |
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The 686 in now listed as the mediun frame. This is the old L frame. The 610, 625, and 627 are large/N frame. I have larger hands than my friends and like the fit of the larger frame. The 686P is their ported model. The drawback to the 686 series is you have to shoot mag loads to make major power factor. I'm not sure how the ported model handles the recoil. |