Posted: 3/13/2011 6:50:12 PM EDT
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I just got this pistol in trade, and the circled part turns (range approx 130 degrees) and prohibits the cylinder from swinging out.
The pistol pictured is not mine, just grabbed the pic online 
What is the way to fix this? |
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Here is an exploded diagram.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=557/schematicsdetail/L_Frame_686 If you have a decent tool selection, find a screwdriver that exactly fits the sideplate screws. Remove the screws, careful with the screw above the trigger, it's a multi-piece device. Tap the opposite side with non-marring hammer (nylon, etc) to loosen the sideplate. Never, ever pry the sideplate unless you want S&W to replace it. Not sure if the hammer assy will have to be removed to reach the screw. |
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Quoted:
I just got this pistol in trade, and the circled part turns (range approx 130 degrees) and prohibits the cylinder from swinging out. The pistol pictured is not mine, just grabbed the pic online http://i1123.photobucket.com/albums/l548/rasusrevka/S_W68603cir.jpg What is the way to fix this? The frame lug should not rotate. It is my understanding that before S&W started machining these integrally to the frame back in the 1990s, the frame lug was swaged into place. Contact S&W, and they should fix it for you. |
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Quoted:
Here is an exploded diagram. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=0/sid=557/schematicsdetail/L_Frame_686 If you have a decent tool selection, find a screwdriver that exactly fits the sideplate screws. Remove the screws, careful with the screw above the trigger, it's a multi-piece device. Tap the opposite side with non-marring hammer (nylon, etc) to loosen the sideplate. Never, ever pry the sideplate unless you want S&W to replace it. Not sure if the hammer assy will have to be removed to reach the screw. It's not a screw, I already took the side plate off. |
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This is the old style S&W cylinder frame lug.
They sometimes loosen and are an easy fix. Get a big center punch and round the tip off until it's well-rounded. My old shop punch lug riveting tool is a Sears 3/8, marked Craftsman #942841 WF. It's just a big center punch. The idea is to flair out the hollow lug of the frame lug to re-tighten the fit. The rounded punch should be rounded enough to spread the rivet but not punch into the bottom of the lug. Put the side plate on a brass or aluminum bench block, or a steel block that's padded with some sheet brass. This will support the lug, but not damage the finish. Realign the lug properly. Use a small hammer and the rounded center punch to rivet the hollow end of the frame lug to tighten the fit back up. This doesn't require a lot of power or heavy hammering. |
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Quoted:
This is the old style S&W cylinder frame lug. They sometimes loosen and are an easy fix. Get a big center punch and round the tip off until it's well-rounded. My old shop punch lug riveting tool is a Sears 3/8, marked Craftsman #942841 WF. It's just a big center punch. The idea is to flair out the hollow lug of the frame lug to re-tighten the fit. The rounded punch should be rounded enough to spread the rivet but not punch into the bottom of the lug. Put the side plate on a brass or aluminum bench block, or a steel block that's padded with some sheet brass. This will support the lug, but not damage the finish. Realign the lug properly. Use a small hammer and the rounded center punch to rivet the hollow end of the frame lug to tighten the fit back up. This doesn't require a lot of power or heavy hammering. Very good information! Thanks for sharing that! 
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Quoted:
This is the old style S&W cylinder frame lug. They sometimes loosen and are an easy fix. Get a big center punch and round the tip off until it's well-rounded. My old shop punch lug riveting tool is a Sears 3/8, marked Craftsman #942841 WF. It's just a big center punch. The idea is to flair out the hollow lug of the frame lug to re-tighten the fit. The rounded punch should be rounded enough to spread the rivet but not punch into the bottom of the lug. Put the side plate on a brass or aluminum bench block, or a steel block that's padded with some sheet brass. This will support the lug, but not damage the finish. Realign the lug properly. Use a small hammer and the rounded center punch to rivet the hollow end of the frame lug to tighten the fit back up. This doesn't require a lot of power or heavy hammering. Took it to my smith, and that is exactly what we did. Thanks. |