Posted: 9/16/2011 8:22:56 AM EDT
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So I have a Smith and Wesson Model 10-6 and while dry firing I had the hammer nose break on me. I've done a little research and apparently I should of been using snap caps because it puts too much stress on the hammer nose when dry firing with an empty cylinder. O well lesson learned no big deal I found a place to order a replacement hammer nose.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ Replacing the hammer nose doesn't look too difficult. Is there any way I can put in a post 1988 Hammer nose in my model 10-6? and would it would be any beefier than the older style hammer nose? I'd like to avoid breaking a hammer nose in the future if at all possible. Just fyi I bought my model 10-6 used two years ago I've put at least 1,200 rounds through it and I have no idea the how much use the previous owner got out of it, but the bore is quite shiny and mechanically it's in great shape.Sorry no pics I'm refinishing it now maybe after I'm done. |
| I can't swear to it but I believe the hammer noses on all M10's will be interchangable. If marked Model 10 it was built after 1957. Be sure to order and use a new hammer nose rivit as well if they have one. I have seen Academy M10's and M15's that were dry fired tens of thousands of times with little to no damage to the hammer noses...dry fire it if you want. |
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There are two types of hammer noses. One uses a spring under it, another doesn't.
The hammer noses without the spring can be a beast to find. The rivets are also hard to get. You take the hammer out, drill out the rivet, remove the broken hammer nose. You put in the new hammer nose with the rivet holding it in, then swage it out on both sides with a tapered punch. You swage a little bit on one side, flip it over and do the same on the other side. Then repeat several times until the hammer nose is secure but swivels freely in the hammer. Look here for the kind you may need: http://www.midwayusa.com/Find?userSearchQuery=hammer+nose |