Posted: 5/8/2025 7:37:18 AM EDT
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Dawson or Springfield OEM plate for the prodigy? I'm planning on a delta point pro |
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Dawson prodigy plate is not windage adjustable according to Dawson webpage. Springfield AOS plate rear sight is windage adjustable because it is a dovetailed fit. For the same $ I would suggest getting the Springfield AOS plate. Attached File |
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Just saw this on Ben Stoeger webpage if you're interested in spending less money. It's in stock for $75. I've purchased from this site many times over the years and it is GTG. https://benstoegerproshop.com/icm-springfield-prodigy-deltapoint-pro-vortex-defender-adapter-plate-by-impact-cnc-machine/ |
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Originally Posted By DisposableHero: Regarding these plates, has anyone actually figured out the loosening issue? I've got it on my 1911, but same plate design- and the damn thing starts loosening up after 200 rounds no matter what I seem to do. @DisposableHero What all have you done? |
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Not to overstate it, but the same thing I’ve done for every other optics plate I have in other pistols. Clean threads, apply Vibrat-Tite VC3, torque to spec. It’s come loose three times now. Going to try a new set of screws and check for clearance of the extractor. |
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Originally Posted By DisposableHero: Not to overstate it, but the same thing I’ve done for every other optics plate I have in other pistols. Clean threads, apply Vibrat-Tite VC3, torque to spec. It’s come loose three times now. Going to try a new set of screws and check for clearance of the extractor. Same. At first, used the recommended torque with blue, then went five pounds more with blue on all screws. Then used VC3. Same issue after 400-500 rounds at each loosening incident. After the screw snapped, it went back to Springer for extraction. When I got it back, I used red loctite on the plate to slide screws as I was dedicated to RMR. Used blue on the optic to plate screws. Knock on wood. So far no issues. Some have also mentioned orange loctite. As a next step/last resort... Rocksett and/or dimple/stake the area around the plate to slide screws. Someone else used JB weld.   
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Originally Posted By DisposableHero: Regarding these plates, has anyone actually figured out the loosening issue? I've got it on my 1911, but same plate design- and the damn thing starts loosening up after 200 rounds no matter what I seem to do. My ICM RMR AOS plate came loose from slide in one range trip, after about 150rds fired. Fuck it, super glued ICM plate to slide, then the RMR came loose from plate in one range trip, after about 150rds. That was a few months ago, I set the gun to the side for a while. Today I used a C&H plate to mount a EPS CARRY to my Prodigy. The C&H plate fit the slide more tightly than the ICM had, but I still super glued it to the slide. EPS fits the plate really well and the t-nuts provide more thread for loctite and the plate itself has many bosses to lock into the sight. The ICM RMR plate is in the trash. Hoping for better luck 3rd time. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By DOE: Same. At first, used the recommended torque with blue, then went five pounds more with blue on all screws. Then used VC3. Same issue after 400-500 rounds at each loosening incident. After the screw snapped, it went back to Springer for extraction. When I got it back, I used red loctite on the plate to slide screws as I was dedicated to RMR. Used blue on the optic to plate screws. Knock on wood. So far no issues. Some have also mentioned orange loctite. As a next step/last resort... Rocksett and/or dimple/stake the area around the plate to slide screws. Someone else used JB weld. https://i.imgur.com/HXsYrTe.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/VTfl1bk.jpg I used JB like bedding compound on a rifle. Works great. Another option is orange loctite. |
ARFCOM GD hates everything so don't freak out if you catch grief for what you like. Unless you like AKs, then GFY.
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I have AOS plate on my mac9DS. I used blue on the screws securing the plate and green between the plate and the gun. Optic is a 509T so it clamps on. Hasn't come off or loosened yet. Taking my Operator AOS out tomorrow for the first time, hopefully that plate stays, too. |
"Life is Hard, its Harder if You're Stupid" - John Wayne
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I ended up making a shim from a feeler gauge to take out the slop. I also “glued” the plate down with blue Loctite. Red Loctite on screw. I’m at 500 rounds and it’s still tight. Prior the plate had come loose every range trip. Attached File |
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Charles Bukowski
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Originally Posted By TripleJ: I ended up making a shim from a feeler gauge to take out the slop. I also “glued” the plate down with blue Loctite. Red Loctite on screw. I’m at 500 rounds and it’s still tight. Prior the plate had come loose every range trip. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/43181/IMG_1611_jpeg-3649811.JPG That will work. One thing is for sure, the system sure looks robust but everyone seems to have plates that come loose. |
ARFCOM GD hates everything so don't freak out if you catch grief for what you like. Unless you like AKs, then GFY.
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Are you ensuring the optic mounting screws do not protrude through the bottom of the optic plate? If the optic mounting screws are too long, they will lift up the optic plate, potentially breaking or causing the plate screws to loosen. I've dealt with this issue on dozens of customer firearms, and this is nearly always the issue. - Mount the optic to the plate *before mounting the plate to the slide. - Ensure the optic screws do not protrude through the plate; if they do... - File/grind/trim the optic screws to be flush with the bottom of the optic plate *with the optic screws properly installed (no loctite, yet) and torqued to spec. - Remove the optic and install the optic plate - Clean and degrease the plate screws (and the slide threaded mounting holes), dab of blue loctite to the plate screw threads, and torque to spec. - Do the same with the optic screws |