Posted: 3/8/2014 2:48:05 AM EDT
| How does the doctor stack up against the RMR? |
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Quoted:
How does the doctor stack up against the RMR? RMR PRO's -more rugged -glass better protected in it's housing -long time in the field and overall use by pistol shooters -easier to warranty/parts because of availability, etc. if needed -easy to use adjustment screws -multiple models for varying tastes/needs -battery life consistently 1.5yr plus for LED models always on -non battery powered options -multiple quality installers now for machined slide work where needed. CONS -cost -size compared to Doctor and some competitors -water resistant as claimed ONLY with factory sealing plate; sold separately ($8) which is stupid given total price of unit. Apparently not needed on CORE pistols to achieve water-resistant status but I would verify from Trijicon or M&P if this is your application -Tritium powered suffers wash-out effect for some users Doctor PRO's -clearer glass -sharper dot -locking screws for adjustments (trade off hard to access without modified sights on a pistol) -less expensive (~20-25% to average RMR cost) -compact, so it fits smaller pistols better with narrow slides -factory sealed unit, no extra parts needed to maintain water-resistant rating from factory CONS -only one model and two MOA sizes, need the factory cover to adjust brightness in manual mode. -less time in field by variety of shooters, especially pistol. Only one mainstream company has really "proven" it's value and utility -very limited availability and difficult to handle warranty, etc. -only one mainstream company machining slides (that I know of) and they are getting out of the business with this model -glass is more exposed from the "hood" and thus increase chance of damage -some M&P CORE users say the projector part blocks the co-witness aspect to your irons. Makes for steeper learning curve and no option if failure occurs when needed. -longer machine time and could translate to more cost and improper fitment if your installer is not familiar with RMR based installs. With all that, at this time these are the only two I would consider using on a SD based handgun. I currently have a RMR'd G19 as my primary CCW. |
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Had both. (Fiber and LED RMRs and a Docter III) I agree with the pro/con list above. Unless cost is the only driver, Adjustable LED RMR all the way.
Docter is a nice size and clear glass, but it just seemed like your typical German engineer -- awkward, fragile, and complicated -- none of which are good in this context. Example: There are actually three brightness settings on the Docter which can be manually selected, who knew? You can choose from "Where's the dot?", "Oh Is That It?", and "I Guess That Might Work." To switch modes, locate the sight cover/hood. Yes, you were supposed to keep that. And keep it with the gun too if you ever want to change brightness levels! Okay, you found it? Now align the little unmarked bump on the front left of the cover/hood with an ill-defined spot on side of the sight. Now watch the LED, because you might miss this -- hold that hood bump against the sight just in that spot for a few seconds, and then PULL IT AWAY! AGAIN! PULL IT AWAY NOW! Okay, did the brightness change? Not sure because the brightness levels are virtually indistinguishable? Or maybe you didn't do it right, try again. Again, yes. Again. Oh that was the brightest setting? Now it's on the lowest. Try it again. No change? Damn it would be so much easier if it just had buttons. Now lets adjust the windage and elevation. You'll need the two specialized tiny tools, plus a little plastic dial with tiny numbers on it to adjust four screws... the sight is VERY tough, but DON'T DO THE ADJUSTMENT WRONG or you'll need to send the sight back to Germany. Now either remove your rear sight, or carefully drill two holes through it in the location of the locking screws that the Docter needs because the other screws do not click. Avoid drilling through any tritium in the rear sight. Why are you laughing, have you drilled the holes already? Now here's the breakthrough: rather than just firing, adjusting, and firing again, you can just fire ONE round and using digital calipers, the little dial attached to the tiny screwdriver, a scientific calculator and a monocle you can determine precisely how many rotations each dial on the sight should get to bring your point of impact to the exact location it needs to be. A HUGE efficiency saving vs the four shots usually required to sight in... a sure triumph of German engineering! Now retighten the locking screws in the proper order, not so tight that they break but not so loose that they would slip. |
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Have you ever tried to find a mRDS dot in the dark on a handgun? Good luck. It's not easy to get it in your FOV without a visual reference index of the pistol relative to your FOV. I went back to a laser and night sights for HD. MiniRDS still rules for speed and distance in shooting at moving targets and contrasting targets I daylight though.
But to answer your question, RMR. Far more robust. My suggestion is delta point. The big triangle is much easier to pick up than the smaller dots. |
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Quoted:
Had both. (Fiber and LED RMRs and a Docter III) I agree with the pro/con list above. Unless cost is the only driver, Adjustable LED RMR all the way. Docter is a nice size and clear glass, but it just seemed like your typical German engineer -- awkward, fragile, and complicated -- none of which are good in this context. Example: There are actually three brightness settings on the Docter which can be manually selected, who knew? You can choose from "Where's the dot?", "Oh Is That It?", and "I Guess That Might Work." To switch modes, locate the sight cover/hood. Yes, you were supposed to keep that. And keep it with the gun too if you ever want to change brightness levels! Okay, you found it? Now align the little unmarked bump on the front left of the cover/hood with an ill-defined spot on side of the sight. Now watch the LED, because you might miss this -- hold that hood bump against the sight just in that spot for a few seconds, and then PULL IT AWAY! AGAIN! PULL IT AWAY NOW! Okay, did the brightness change? Not sure because the brightness levels are virtually indistinguishable? Or maybe you didn't do it right, try again. Again, yes. Again. Oh that was the brightest setting? Now it's on the lowest. Try it again. No change? Damn it would be so much easier if it just had buttons. Now lets adjust the windage and elevation. You'll need the two specialized tiny tools, plus a little plastic dial with tiny numbers on it to adjust four screws... the sight is VERY tough, but DON'T DO THE ADJUSTMENT WRONG or you'll need to send the sight back to Germany. Now either remove your rear sight, or carefully drill two holes through it in the location of the locking screws that the Docter needs because the other screws do not click. Avoid drilling through any tritium in the rear sight. Why are you laughing, have you drilled the holes already? Now here's the breakthrough: rather than just firing, adjusting, and firing again, you can just fire ONE round and using digital calipers, the little dial attached to the tiny screwdriver, a scientific calculator and a monocle you can determine precisely how many rotations each dial on the sight should get to bring your point of impact to the exact location it needs to be. A HUGE efficiency saving vs the four shots usually required to sight in... a sure triumph of German engineering! Now retighten the locking screws in the proper order, not so tight that they break but not so loose that they would slip. Yeah back to lasers for you too huh? 
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I have a laser on my nightstand gun, but no -- I still have a RMR on one of my G19's. But the RMR has worked like a SIRT to reveal my trigger control problems, and now I'm able to hit at long ranges with irons *almost* as easily as with the RMR.
I am considering putting another RMR on my G20SF since that's a gun that can stretch the distance. Quoted:
Yeah back to lasers for you too huh? |