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AR15.COM
10/20/2009 7:49:17 AM EDT
The gun is a Springfield Mil-Spec in stainless steel that I bought new a couple months ago. Perdy nice pistol but the trigger pull is heavy so I want to try a Wilson Reduced Power main spring. On the spring packaged it says 19#. Does that mean its a 19 pounder?
This S/A Mil-Spec came with a titanium firing pin. I'm wondering if the reduced power 19 lb. main spring is intended for use with a regular and heavier steel f-pin?
And, why do they use a titanium firing pin?

Thanks For Your Time
    -VonBarky-


Looking for beater 1911 or beater S&W revolver, need not work.



10/20/2009 7:59:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Reduced power springs = reduced power loads. Loads equaling power factor. For factory loads you need to stay with factory spec springs or you'll risk batttering your pistol. 23lbs is stock mainspring weight. On my carry I've increased to 25lb mainspring to compensate for heavier loads. Trigger pull comes in a tad over 4lbs - with a 25lb ms - while lowering the mainspring is one way of decreasing trigger pull, it is not the correct way.... Ed Brown Sear jig + good stones + knowledge = good trigger pull
10/20/2009 8:18:10 AM EDT
[#2]
Search out a gunsmith who does 1911 triggers.
I honestly don't know what the going rate is but a good smith can do it with his eyes closed (almost) experience counts here and
contrary to popular thought lighter isn't always better.
Smooth up a nasty pull and get it down to 4.5 lbs or so and it will become a great shooter, try to get a 3.3lb pull and it may not last or be consistant

With my hands I had my smith do a mild oversized beavertail and a "long" trigger. This was close to 20 years back and the gun still shoots like a dream. I bet I have
50 or 60thousand rounds through this gun and all I have done is clean it and I guess I put a new standard recoil spring in it every 6 or 8 thousnd rounds.

With the standard spring I have no fear with full power loads and I have a reduced power handload I run in the plate shoots that works fine also.
If I ran a lighter spring I could back off the reloads some but reliability starts to drop off.

If I was running hot loads for pinshoots I would jump up a step with the spring but I don't load that hot . Loading hot in a 1911 is treading on thin ice in my book. Can be done but I don't bother
10/20/2009 8:31:25 AM EDT
[#3]
The reduced power mainspring is the way to go. The 1911 was designed with overkill in this department. Changing out to the 19lbs spring will reduce the trigger weight and probably will get the pull down to about 5 lbs. Its like a trigger job for $10 bucks. If you don't like it you can put the org spring back in.
10/20/2009 8:41:13 AM EDT
[#4]
The # is called the pound sign for a reason.

A 19# spring is just fine for most guns, go lighter and you risk light primer strikes.  Military spec is 21# for a government model, but many manufacturers overspring them and put 23# springs in.
For an officer with it's associated shorter spring you need to go up 2# in spring weight.  Going to a lighter mainspring will change the trigger pull weight, but it won't change the quality of the trigger pull.  That's done by properly fitting the sear/hammer interface.

I usually put a 20# spring in a full size.
10/20/2009 2:06:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Gold Cups and 38 Supers come with a 19# unit from the factory - I don't recall ever hearing them to be chronic ligh-strikers of primers....
10/21/2009 2:37:37 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Gold Cups and 38 Supers come with a 19# unit from the factory - I don't recall ever hearing them to be chronic ligh-strikers of primers....




Roger that.