Posted: 7/20/2006 7:12:11 AM EDT
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I picked this up on a trade...I really like it and plan on customizing it..etc The finish is in less than perfect condition and I'd like to refinish the frame myself (I will smooth the slide and will be having it hard Chromed) I'd like to use Gunkote, tuffKote (Matte or SOCOM black) What is the best way to prep the receiver? I was going to blast it with walnut shells, or some type of plastic media.... Here are some current pics: (Ignore the date in the photo's)      |
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The only real way to guarantee a good application of the gun paints is to abrasive blast the metal. These paints won't stick to a nickel layer, and nothing less than aluminum oxide is going to provide the proper roughness to the metal. If it were me, I'd send the frame off to the chrome plater along with the slide and have him de-plate the frame. Then you can go any number of different ways with it, i.e. bluing, parkerizing, etc. |
I have an electroless nickel commander too. Mine is in good shape, but I did some inquiring years ago about having it deplated and parked. I decided not too since mine is in good shape, yours may be a candidate though, depends on what you like. Pic of mine:  I think I got a quote of about $150.00 to deplate and park???  That was from Mac's Refinishing, I think. I cannot recall all the details now. May want to try Tripp Refinishing and see what they say......check out their pricing, look at the price for strippin hard chrome.... www.trippresearch.com/products/pricing/REFINISHING%20PRICES.htm ETA: I had my gunsmith "freshen" the gun a bit, he used a motorized brush and cleaned it up so the finish does not look so "yellow" and dead....also added a Wilson Combat grip safety, McCormick rear sight and a King's front, crappy Hogue grips with black hex screws. |
Brownell's does sell a nickel stripper: www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=1102&s=#specs |
Thanks... I may try this depending on what Tripp comes back with |
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seriously send it to Tripp refinishing a plated pistol is not for the amature. They can do it the right way and you wont be disappointed all in all, yours doesnt look all that bad from the pics, Ive seen much worse. If it were me Id leave it and just carry it as is |
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For what it's worth, here's the skinny on Brownells room temp nickel stripper. I've stripped 4 nickel Colts now, and reblued them, so the gun needs to be very thoroughly stripped. It's much more critical in bluing than in coating, and I found out the hard way the first time. I had a gun that was partially blued, partially streaked, and partially nickel. The problem is, you cannot see where there is any nickel after you strip and blast it. I've settled on this. Don't believe the bottle nor the ad. It taked more than 30 minutes. I let it soak for a week. Then, I glass bead blast. That's for bluing. Aluminum Oxide, as mentioned above, is really a necessity when coating a gun, as the glass beads or walnut shells will simply dimple the surface at a microscopic level. ALOX qill cut the surface. Anyway, if you want it to turn out right, strip it, blast it with ALOX, and then coat it, not using a rattle can, but a sprayer. That's very important, though some get okay result with a rattle can. When the gun starts to get edge wear, guns coated with rattle cans are much more prone to getting flaking, while a gun sprayed with a HP sprayer or airbrush will turn out much better. |