Posted: 1/4/2025 11:25:24 AM EDT
| Anybody drop a new trigger in it yet ? Ghost rocket or anything like that ? |
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Originally Posted By the-answer-is-42: The RXM trigger is nice for stock, but I absolutely hate it vs the Apex kit in my M&P. I have one of these on the way: https://tacticaltriggers.com/ruger-rxm-trigger-kit/ In case anyone wants to know I got this in. Installed it and it's very reminiscent of an Apex kit in feel. Had an issue with trigger reset the first time but it seems like my RXM doesnt like both overtravel plates installed - only one of them (or it doesnt reset properly nor fire properly). Overall with dry firing the kit seems nice. Will take it to the range next week. |
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I threw a Lonewolf 721 classic connector in mine, I didn't like the long reset and massive amount of overtravel, and that connector fixed it. I tried a factory Glock minus connector but it was identical to the factory RXM connector in every way. I'm not sure if it's the shoe or the trigger bar, but the RXM definitely engages the connector sooner than a typical Gen 3 Glock. I consider the trigger to be absolutely perfect now. |
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Originally Posted By Snowbroski: I threw a Lonewolf 721 classic connector in mine, I didn't like the long reset and massive amount of overtravel, and that connector fixed it. I tried a factory Glock minus connector but it was identical to the factory RXM connector in every way. I'm not sure if it's the shoe or the trigger bar, but the RXM definitely engages the connector sooner than a typical Gen 3 Glock. I consider the trigger to be absolutely perfect now. I am so glad I saw your post. I have never had a Glock or clone before I bought my RXM, I have mainly carried 1911s. The RXM felt really good at the shop, and recent occurrences in my area have made me want more rounds in the mag, so I bought it. I put 250 rounds through it my first range session and every single group looked practically the same - all large groups, low and left. It seemed like no matter what I did - stance, breathing, hand position, finger position - the groups never changed. Even with different brands and weights of ammo. I ordered a Lonewolf 721 connector and swapped it out myself. I put 150 rounds through it today, and every group looked the same - a lot tighter and a lot closer to center. Best $20 upgrade ever. 
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Originally Posted By Joker23: I don't have one of those scales for measuring trigger pull. Maybe @Snowbroski has a better idea? Originally Posted By Joker23: Originally Posted By D-der: Any idea what the pull weight is with the LW 721 in the RXM ? 25 cent trigger job was a significant improvement but... I don't have one of those scales for measuring trigger pull. Maybe @Snowbroski has a better idea? Sorry for the late response, but the pull weight was the same as factory, mine pulls at about 4 and a 1/4 pounds on a cheap wheeler gauge. |
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I just put a TTI Grandmaster Connector Kit (for a Gen 3 Glock) in mine. Turned my trigger into a smooth rolling break, right at 3lbs. |
"Moral principles do not depend on a majority vote. Wrong is wrong, even if everybody is wrong. Right is right, even if nobody is right.” - Fulton J. Sheen
My factory trigger felt like it had a long spongy take up that I didn’t care for at all. Weight wasn’t bad, and I generally really like the Gen 3 Glock factory trigger. Yes, that makes me an abomination.  I put a Lone Wolf 721 Classic connector in mine as recommended and it made it feel like a classic Glock trigger. The weight was about the same but without the gross take up. Highly recommend it for duty or carry. |
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I ordered and installed the Lone Wolf 721 connector. It would not release the striker unless I pull the trigger back really hard or I pull the trigger all the way back and shake the gun a bit. Attempted the install twice same result. Reinstalled the stock one and gun functioned fine. Maybe I got a bad one. While had it apart I took a closer look at Ruger connector. It looks similar to the Glock “-“ connector. I like the feel of the Glock trigger with the “-“ connector. Next I will swap in a OEM Gen 3 G19 trigger bar to see if will give me the desired feel. The Ruger trigger is a long pull with no distinct wall. It’s something I don’t care for. |
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Had an interesting issue today trying to put a LWD 721 connector in my RXM. Tried this with two separate LWD 721 connectors from the same order (this one specifically https://lonewolfdist.com/parts/frame-parts/connector/lwd-connector-342-3-5-lb-6-lb-trigger-spring-kit/ ), along with an older Zev 3.5 connector and had the same issue. No other parts have been changed. Took the chassis out of the frame, installed it, leaf spring for the slide lock is a pain in the neck but figured it out. The trouble is that with the LWD connector installed, when cycling the slide by hand, it drags and hangs up pretty hard about mid-way through the slide travel. I'm able to get it all the way to the rear and back forward, but it takes force. Oddly, if I'm hand cycling it like that, sometimes the slide lock will fall out, despite previously verifying that I had it installed correctly. Also sometimes the trigger won't break when pulled, I have to stick a dental pick in the back of the slide and get it to fire that way in order to disassemble it again. I reinstalled the OEM connector and it's back to normal, slide cycles without hangup and drag, and trigger breaks normally. There is a bit of a hangup if I hand cycle the slide slowly, but it's when the slide is about half an inch from all the way forward, rather than halfway through the slide cycle. Am I doing something wrong here? Is there some slight dimensional difference between the Ruger connector and the average Glock connectors? |
| Had the same problem with the lw721 connector. Trigger needed to be pulled quickly to release the striker. Slow pull no release of striker. Fast pull it would release. I believe the angle on the connector needs to be adjusted. Specifically the L shape at the bottom. There are videos that show just a slight tweak may make it functional. |
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A quick visual inspection shows that the knub at the top of the disconnector has been repositioned further forward and is bigger on the RXM. So installing an traditionally Gen 3 disconnector would not necessarily provide the throw required to function properly. I think this had to be done because of the added dimension created by the chassis system surrounding the trigger bar. If you look at the system, the knub is depressed by the protrusion on the slide, when you rack the slide or fire the gun. This allows the back end of the trigger bar to pop up, giving it the interference required to pull back on the striker while you are depressing the trigger. If the trigger bar does not pop up, the striker is not engaged. If that doesn't happen, pulling back on the trigger does not engage the striker. By pulling back on the trigger forcefully, it is bowing the trigger bar, allowing the striker to be engaged, but probably just barely. If you get one of those Glock gunsmith half plate rear plates, I bet you can see exactly what I am talking about. Also, riding the slide, or gently hand racking it, and whatever you feel by doing so basically indicates nothing because the gun will never operate at that speed or gentleness. |
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I live fired my RXM for the first time today. Didn't realize when I had dry fired before that I had to let the trigger all the way out before it would reset. That really annoyed me in an uncanny valley kind of way, since I've been shooting Glocks for a long while and am very used to the short reset. Has anyone started making RXM-specific connectors that bring back the short reset? As mentioned in my above post, I tried LWD 721 and Zev connectors and they both made the slide drag very hard, to the point that I think live firing with them in my gun would be malfunction city. |
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Originally Posted By TheRat: I live fired my RXM for the first time today. Didn't realize when I had dry fired before that I had to let the trigger all the way out before it would reset. That really annoyed me in an uncanny valley kind of way, since I've been shooting Glocks for a long while and am very used to the short reset. Has anyone started making RXM-specific connectors that bring back the short reset? As mentioned in my above post, I tried LWD 721 and Zev connectors and they both made the slide drag very hard, to the point that I think live firing with them in my gun would be malfunction city. It seems the Tactical Trigger kit is the only RXM specific option at this time, maybe you could use the connector alone but it's pricey @ $90.00 |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Anybody tried the Tactical Trigger for the RXM? I have it in my gun now. It does remove that false wall, but not complete. There is still some creep before it breaks. The reset is short like new OEM Glock, but not as tactile. I like the trigger on my OEM Glock with just a “-“ connector. The Tactical Trigger doesn’t get me there. It’s does make the Ruger RXM trigger a little better than before. |
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Well, So far I've polished the connector, trigger bar, striker lug and safety plunger, Which did help considerably, Then put in Wolff RP plunger spring and finally last week tried a Wolff 5 lb striker spring. Bingo The polishing did help quite a bit, The striker spring did transform it to a pretty decent carry trigger. At a little under 4lb's the trigger's a bit lighter than I'd like if the pull was short, but there's a lot of take up. The end result is a lb or so lighter than out of the box, very smooth pull with a nice break that's more predictable than the very unpredictable rolling hard break out of the box. Results are better hit's with consistency, Well worth a little time and a couple of springs. |
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Well, I installed an OEM Glock trigger bar, everything else is stock Ruger RXM. It kinda/sorta worked. Reset felt mushy. It shortened the take up and break (fired). After the mushy reset the trigger safety engages. Here is the major safety issue. If I squeezed the trigger (not breaking/firing) then let go, the trigger safety would not re-engage. I have to push the trigger forward for it to re-engage. I went back and installed the OEM Ruger RXM trigger bar /trigger shoe along with the Tactical Trigger( basically their connector) and everything is back to normal. So far these are the combinations I have tried on the RXM with no success: Stock RXM with Lonewolf 721 connector Stock RXM with OEM Glock trigger bar Stock RXM with OEM Glock trigger bar + Lonewolf 721 connector Stock RXM with OEM Glock trigger bar + OEM Ruger RXM connector At this point I have accepted the fact that the RXM trigger parts are not dimensionally the same as a Glock Gen 3 trigger. It will not reliably accept OEM Glock trigger or aftermarket triggers that are not specifically designed for it. Swapping in OEM Glock trigger and aftermarket trigger parts not designed for it, you are taking a chance on safety and reliability. The only connector that I have found to work is the Tactical Trigger kit or just its connector. I have 300 rds thur the RXM with the Tactical Trigger connector and can confirm it works reliably. Its connector looks totally different compared to all other connectors. |
| I spoke with Overwatch precision a couple of days ago regarding compatibility of their Poly Dat trigger in an RXM. I was told, It'll run fine in the RXM and if I put in one of their dot connectors I'll have a nice trigger with shorter reach, less take up and shorter reset. So... I have a Poly Dat with NP3'd tuned trigger bar and a NP3'd dot connector on the way. |
| The Overwatch trigger with NP3'd trigger bar and dot connector resulted in exactly the trigger I was looking for, Shorter trigger reach, much improved take up, reset and pull characteristics, With the 5 lb Wolff striker and rp plunger springs I'd installed prior I have a consistent more controllable 4.2 lb trigger. |
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Originally Posted By D-der: The Overwatch trigger with NP3'd trigger bar and dot connector resulted in exactly the trigger I was looking for, Shorter trigger reach, much improved take up, reset and pull characteristics, With the 5 lb Wolff striker and rp plunger springs I'd installed prior I have a consistent more controllable 4.2 lb trigger. Have a link for what you ordered and installed? |
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Thanks to guys that recommended the LW721 connector! I put one in my RXM and I like the trigger pull better now. It has more Glock like pull to the wall and reset now. I also did the 25 cent trigger job and polish. Trigger pull feels like a really good carry trigger now. I think that will be all I do as far as the trigger goes for my RXM. I am a bit surprised that some people are having issues with the LW 721 connector. There must be enough variance in the RXM trigger parts that some guns won’t work well with some parts while others do. |
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Originally Posted By Yojimbo: I am a bit surprised that some people are having issues with the LW 721 connector. There must be enough variance in the RXM trigger parts that some guns won't work well with some parts while others do. Lone Wolf doesn't have the consistency they had years ago, so I wouldn't necessarily lay it all on Ruger But any time you replace parts, things can happen. |
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Originally Posted By OlKev: The Glock performance trigger from the Glock store modified for Gen3 guns is not compatible . . . or at least I couldn't figure out how to make it work. The only way to get that to work currently is with a new trigger housing. Google GPT-X Trigger Housing |
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Originally Posted By Dbnd: The only way to get that to work currently is with a new trigger housing. Google GPT-X Trigger Housing Originally Posted By Dbnd: Originally Posted By OlKev: The Glock performance trigger from the Glock store modified for Gen3 guns is not compatible . . . or at least I couldn't figure out how to make it work. The only way to get that to work currently is with a new trigger housing. Google GPT-X Trigger Housing |
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So.... I picked up a couple more RXMs and can no longer recommend the LW 721 classic. I had 5 of these connectors laying around and I could only get two of them to work 100% reliably if I swapped out the RXM backplate for a Glock OEM backplate(weird). So I also tried a Ghost 3.5 standard, and it didn't change much other than increasing resistance on the slide. And don't order an Apex connector, Ruger must source the connector from Apex, or the same manufacturer that Apex does. |