Posted: 4/19/2012 3:54:34 PM EDT
| A buddy has a .357 that he bought 10 years ago from another buddy. He does not know exactly what model/year it is. He said he fired it last week for the first time to check it out. He wants 250 bucks (including 70 rounds of ammo). I know the price is good for a 4" blued S&W. I don't own anything like this so I'm looking for pointers when I check it out on Monday. I am familiar with checking the gun for soundness (I'm an S&W/Remington/Colt armorer). What will tell me if it is a L or N frame? What models are most valuable? I would be purchasing this to keep - with the thought I could sell it later if I wanted to. That is why I am interested in the specifics to look for. I know that since neither you nor I have seen this revolver yet, it is hard to guess. I think the gun is at least 20 years old. |
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Quoted:
A buddy has a .357 that he bought 10 years ago from another buddy. He does not know exactly what model/year it is. He said he fired it last week for the first time to check it out. He wants 250 bucks (including 70 rounds of ammo). I know the price is good for a 4" blued S&W. I don't own anything like this so I'm looking for pointers when I check it out on Monday. I am familiar with checking the gun for soundness (I'm an S&W/Remington/Colt armorer). What will tell me if it is a L or N frame? What models are most valuable? I would be purchasing this to keep - with the thought I could sell it later if I wanted to. That is why I am interested in the specifics to look for. I know that since neither you nor I have seen this revolver yet, it is hard to guess. I think the gun is at least 20 years old. Post up what the model number is, then we will know what frame size it is. It's probably an L frame gun. I would buy every $250 Smith revolver I came across, especially the older models. |
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586 and 686 are the only older guns built on the L frame.
5 shot 38 guns are j frames and 6 shot 38 will be K frame (other than 686/586) Then you have the monster N frame which would be model 27/28 in 357(the n-frame is usually 44 or 45 cal) The models on Most S&W guns will be stamped on the crane , just swing the cylinder open and the number should be right below the barrel Should be a model# and then a dash with a single number telling what revision. $250 is a steal for most S&W revolvers unless they are beat,very worn or a rust bucket |
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There are a number of older medium-large & large frame blue 4" 357 mag S&W's. Any of them, in good condition, is worth much more than $250.00 in today's market.
A few that come to mind are: Model 581 - L frame fixed sight Model 586 - L frame adjustable sight Model 27 - N frame adjustable sight Model 28 - N frame adjustable sight Model 520 - N frame fixed sight The best way to tell what you have is to open the cylinder and the model number should be stamped on the frame. If it is not then the revolver might date to before S&W used model numbers and we would need some additional info to ID it for you. |
ok - great leads. I almost can't wait to get to work on Monday...ain't that strange? Especially since I have the day OFF for leave. But, like 5 other days this year, I will be at work anyway... We are being inventoried since they are closing our facility to waste taxpayer money––-oops––I mean save the taxpayer money (ya right). Boss lady sent out an email this week that told us "to have the best closing in history". Very encouraging don't you think?
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Look....
250 dollars for ANY S&W as long as it is in good condition and maybe 30+ years old is an excellent deal. Period. No argument. Now, if it falls into one of a couple of other groups of guns it may be a real sweet cherry deal instead of just a regular "you are an idiot if you don't buy it" category. So, get the damn gun already. Caveat, unless it's stolen. Make sure it's above board and not stolen, then get the damn gun. |
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Quoted:
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...(I'm an S&W/Remington/Colt armorer). What will tell me if it is a L or N frame? ..... You are an S&W armorer and can't determine what model the gun is?  I dont think he's seen the gun yet. And his friend supposed to meet him Monday from what I gather. |
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Knight - finally a reader - reading is fundamental....my buddy has had it stored for 10 years. He fired it last week and said it was fine. He cleaned it and put it back in the box. He did not have a clue as to what model it was. I have not seen it. I have over 20 old model 15's and half a dozen 5906's I am responsible for at work. That does not make me an expert on every S&W ever made. Yes - I can tell what model it is - once I see it. Since I do not own this weapon (read op) I am not familiar with the complete S&W line.
I know these 1/4 page topics are too much for some....I thought I was in GD for a minute.
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Quoted:
Knight - finally a reader - reading is fundamental....my buddy has had it stored for 10 years. He fired it last week and said it was fine. He cleaned it and put it back in the box. He did not have a clue as to what model it was. I have not seen it. I have over 20 old model 15's and half a dozen 5906's I am responsible for at work. That does not make me an expert on every S&W ever made. Yes - I can tell what model it is - once I see it. Since I do not own this weapon (read op) I am not familiar with the complete S&W line. I know these 1/4 page topics are too much for some....I thought I was in GD for a minute. Open the cylinder, the model is stamped on the frame. Something most people familiar with S&W's know. Exception would be pre-1957 manufacture, since that is when they started using model numbers for ID. If they didn't cover that in your armorer training, I can understand. But it is pretty common knowlege. |
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Thank God we have helpfull, experienced, kind hearted folks like you 2hawk - Maybe in rocket scientist school they skipped the lesson on reading/comprehension. For example: see your quote, you see it there? The part where I said I had not seen the gun?
Have no fear, I will type slowly for you and even include a few pictures. I can imagine the pictures would help you. Quoted:
Quoted:
Knight - finally a reader - reading is fundamental....my buddy has had it stored for 10 years. He fired it last week and said it was fine. He cleaned it and put it back in the box. He did not have a clue as to what model it was. I have not seen it. I have over 20 old model 15's and half a dozen 5906's I am responsible for at work. That does not make me an expert on every S&W ever made. Yes - I can tell what model it is - once I see it. Since I do not own this weapon (read op) I am not familiar with the complete S&W line. I know these 1/4 page topics are too much for some....I thought I was in GD for a minute. Open the cylinder, the model is stamped on the frame. Something most people familiar with S&W's know. Exception would be pre-1957 manufacture, since that is when they started using model numbers for ID. If they didn't cover that in your armorer training, I can understand. But it is pretty common knowlege. NOW THAT I HAVE THE GUN: It is a Model 581 (no dash). As I now know what it is, it seems I may send it in for the recall fix (lack of M). Seems a lot of folks like these fixed sight guns. I fired off a dozen or so rounds of the 70 some .357 magnum 125gr. HP rounds that came with it. 225.00 for the whole deal. It does have a couple of small wear marks. Not many rounds have been through this gun. The pics have a lot of reflection and they are from my cell phone - so - oh well, you get the idea. I have not cleaned it up, it is as bought. 
Like I said, the reflections take away from the great deep blue finish on the revolver. Thanks for the help (most of you) it is nice to get info from the learned.... 
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Nice gun, I have a couple like it.
I guess it was way too hard to have the owner open the cylinder and read the numbers to you. Doesn't matter if the gun is in Tuscon and you're in Tehachapi, the model number is stamped on the frame, you don't have to have it your hand if your buddy is capable of reading the numbers there. Like you like to say, reading is fundamental.
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