Posted: 9/13/2008 8:26:20 AM EDT
 What I know its a .44 spc. Along with this information the barrel also reads CTG. I would say it's in pretty good condition but don't know much more about it based on the maze of people it came from. Any info and estimated worth would be appreciated. Thanks. Sorry for the pic quality 
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If it has a S/N, shoot it to me via an IM & I'll check the S&W Reference book. It may not be 100% all the time, but it's pretty accurate. You could also take it to a gun show & ask multiple dealers who know their ass from a hole in the ground. |
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Per my Standard Catalog of S&W, 2nd Model H.E.’s went to magna grips in about 1936, so those grips could be original. If you CAREFULLY remove the grips, you may find a SN on the inside of one of the panels, probably in pencil. Note that the grips themselves are pretty valuable. While I don’t see any references to it this book, the shape of the extractor rod tip suggests a later production firearm. Earlier H.E.’s had a cone shaped tip. If you’re interested, for maybe $20 or so you can get a letter from S&W showing the dealer it was shipped to, and (hopefully) the original configuration of the revolver. The big question is whether or not the revolver has been reblued. |
FYI, price for a Jink letter just went up to $50(from $30)
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 Naturally I’ve got a H.E. I’ve been thinking about lettering myself for some time - but I don’t think I will at that price. (Lettering to my mind is more for determining the original configuration or getting needed historical information, neither of which is an issue for me.) |
Well, I'm puzzled...........   The serrated trigger shows up in the description of the 3rd Model. However, both 2nd & 3rd Models were built at the same time, i.e. overlapping. The 3rd Model should have a small S&W trademark on the left side of the frame but I didn't see it in your pics, but it simply may not have been shown. If it is indeed a 3rd Model Prewar, then the values could be $950 - VG condition to $1,400 - Exc condition. 3rd Models were made from 1926 to 1941. Pity you don't have the Target Model Prewar, they're worth double to triple premium!  Obviously the best thing is a letter from the esteemed Mr. Roy Jinks & Co.  Hope this helped in some small way. |
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I don't see a s&w logo on the left side of the frame...does this mean its 2nd model? i was browsing gunbroker and can't find anything thats exact. some similarities but that is all. and my damn s&w forum account isn't verified yet despite me clicking the link....cool |
The 2nd Model has a smooth trigger & yours has a serrated trigger. That would lead me to believe it's the 3rd Model. Not to say someone in the past couldn't have swapped out the trigger, but I wouldn't bet the farm on that happening, IMO. |
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Whoa! The values you guys are quoting are somewhere around okay, but as a serious S&W collector, I'd say a bit low if anything. The only way to tell anything for sure is to letter the gun from S&W. It is a very collectable gun. Those grips probably ARE original, and if you remove them the matching serial number will be stamped on (I think) the right grip. They are what is called pre-war magnas, and you oughta know that they alone, looking at the condition, would fetch well over $500 alone for the pair of them. Upwards of $750-800, or more, actually. Sell it if you must, but don't get taken advantage of. With those grips, especially if they are numbered to the gun, you easily have a $1750-2000 gun there. Trust me. CTG on the barrel means "cartridge". It is a 2nd model, not a third. That means pre WW2. If you were to keep it and shoot it (as I would, its going to double in value in 5 years), it is not safe to carry a live round under the hammer, as there is no hammer block. lastly, going by what I see in your 2nd set of photos, I doubt is has been reblued. The roll marks (stampings) look too sharp for that. Factory letters are now $50, not 20, and it takes a while to get one. To remove the grips, DO NOT pry them off!!! Last thing you want to do is damage those grips!! Loosen the screw most of the way, and carefully push on the screw to push the grips apart. Be careful not to push the thread recieving insert out of the wood on the opposite grip. It may be difficult to remove them, and if they are stuck and you don't dare push on them any harder, with that value, bring them to your gunsmith and let him remove them for you. Look at all the corrosion (green) at the recieving end of the screw. I doubt those grips have ever been removed, and thats why I think you're going to find a numbered set of grips on the gun. |
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Thanks redtail. I actually posted on the s&w forums. http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/540103904/m/8031058323 I've already received 2 offers however I'm currently working on getting these grips off to check. I do agree that they don't appear to have ever been taken off. The only concern to me at least is that there is about a half inch 'nick' missing out of the bottom right side of the grip. UPDATE: grips match
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I inquired about what you said and here was the response. "That someone is mistaken. Your gun is a 2nd Model .44 Hand Ejector. The earlier models of both the 2nd and 3rd Models had smooth triggers, but the order to equip .44 Hand Ejectors with grooved triggers was made on March 18, 1929 (this is from Smith & Wesson 1857-1945, by Neal and Jinks). As was mentioned, yours likely dates from the late 1930s." |
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Good. He should get a VERY nice price on gunbroker. In my experience, gunbroker brings slightly higher prices than S&W Forum sales. S&W Forum acts more as a "gentlemans club" type market where gunbroker is an open market. There are some exceptions, though. I've seen one gun get sold many times on the S&W Forum, all among vetted members, and for less than it's true value. Almost like it's really just being passed around for all to try out. |
My info comes from the S&W Reference, printed in 2006......... Again, I suggest the most accurate info will be a S&W letter.
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