Posted: 4/28/2010 3:47:11 PM EDT
|
As you already know I just bought a "new to me" model 19. 4 inch barrel. It is a really, really nice little revolver. The cylinder has a slight movement (Left to right, not back and forth) when it is not locked AND when the hammer is locked back. Only slighty mind you but still noticeable. I have no doubt that it will eventually become an issue. I have been told 2 things. It is either the lock underneath the cylinder or a part called the hand. That is on the frame behind the cylinder. Any ideas? Or is it both? How much to fix? Is it just springs or should get a hand and a spring a set? Are any of you Smith and Wesson experts?
Oh and Hi everyone. My name is nitekrawler. I came by the name in the military. I used to drink on occasion and would end up having to crawl back to the bunk well after the hours of good taste. 
|
|
It's very hard to quantify the amount of rotational play that is acceptable. Any S&W that has been shot, and some that haven't, are going to have some rotational play. Far more importation are timing and endshake(fore and aft movement of the cylinder). Endshake is easily measured with a set of leaf type feeler gages available from your local autoparts store or sears.
It's probably not enough that you need to worry about it, especially if there isn't any endshake. The cylinder stop is what controls lockup, the hand is what rotates the cylinder. A new stop should be about $10 or so IIRC, but you'll have to fit it to the gun, and that is a trial and error process. Buy the Kuhnhausen S&W Shop Manual from Brownells/midway/etc. for more info on that. Again, I doubt you need to worry about it though. |
| The cylinder stop that comes up through the frame just under the cylinder can wear and cause the rotational play. This is an easy inexpensive repair that you can do yourself. When the trigger is pulled the stop comes up and fits into the notches on the cylinder. These notches can wear and increase the rotational play. This is a repair that I'd send to S&W. You are probably ok............I have seen a very few S&W revolvers with what I considered too much play. Shoot it. |
|
Quoted:
I just picked up a 19-3 in about 98% condition - unfortunately the factory grips were replaced. What a gun - what a great trigger. BIG +1 to that. I love mine as well. i don't remember if I mentioned it earlier but mine is also a 19-3 WITH factory wood grips. With the exception the movement in the cylinder I would put it around 95%-98% as well. Great pistols huh? |
|
Be aware that the S&W is specifically designed to have some rotational movement in the cylinder.
This is to allow the bullet entering the barrel to force the chamber into alignment with the bore. The only DA revolver that locks the cylinder tightly are the old Colt actions like the Python and Detective Special. In those designs, when the trigger is pulled the cylinder is forced into a hard lockup. This was known as the Colt "Bank Vault Lockup". The S&W and all other modern designs like the Ruger, Dan Wesson, Taurus, and the newer Colt's like the King Cobra all are designed to allow the cylinder to have some free rotational movement to allow the cylinder chamber to align with the barrel. In other words, you're Model 19 may not be broke, and if you fit tight parts to remove the rotational play, your S&W will not work properly. In the S&W what counts is: Is the gun accurate? Does it spit bullet metal? If the gun is accurate and isn't spitting bullet metal, it isn't "broke".....don't "fix it". |
|
Quoted:
Be aware that the S&W is specifically designed to have some rotational movement in the cylinder. This is to allow the bullet entering the barrel to force the chamber into alignment with the bore. The only DA revolver that locks the cylinder tightly are the old Colt actions like the Python and Detective Special. In those designs, when the trigger is pulled the cylinder is forced into a hard lockup. This was known as the Colt "Bank Vault Lockup". The S&W and all other modern designs like the Ruger, Dan Wesson, Taurus, and the newer Colt's like the King Cobra all are designed to allow the cylinder to have some free rotational movement to allow the cylinder chamber to align with the barrel. In other words, you're Model 19 may not be broke, and if you fit tight parts to remove the rotational play, your S&W will not work properly. In the S&W what counts is: Is the gun accurate? Does it spit bullet metal? If the gun is accurate and isn't spitting bullet metal, it isn't "broke".....don't "fix it". WOW....REALLY good info. Thanks. No it does not spit bullet metal. I was just told by a guy at my local gunshop that it MAY become a problem in the future so I wanted to ask you guys about it. I trust your input more than I do his. Thanks for the info...I learned something new today. |
|
Quoted:
Big money....Broke white boy. I'll do the work myself. Remember not to drop the ridge rod when you take the side plate off. They are extremely small and hard to find if you drop them. And for a little piece, they are very hard to put back in and are expensive. They can run up to a hundred bucks if you have to order one. |
|
Quoted:
Be aware that the S&W is specifically designed to have some rotational movement in the cylinder. This is to allow the bullet entering the barrel to force the chamber into alignment with the bore. The only DA revolver that locks the cylinder tightly are the old Colt actions like the Python and Detective Special. In those designs, when the trigger is pulled the cylinder is forced into a hard lockup. This was known as the Colt "Bank Vault Lockup". The S&W and all other modern designs like the Ruger, Dan Wesson, Taurus, and the newer Colt's like the King Cobra all are designed to allow the cylinder to have some free rotational movement to allow the cylinder chamber to align with the barrel. In other words, you're Model 19 may not be broke, and if you fit tight parts to remove the rotational play, your S&W will not work properly. In the S&W what counts is: Is the gun accurate? Does it spit bullet metal? If the gun is accurate and isn't spitting bullet metal, it isn't "broke".....don't "fix it". +1 |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Big money....Broke white boy. I'll do the work myself. Remember not to drop the ridge rod when you take the side plate off. They are extremely small and hard to find if you drop them. And for a little piece, they are very hard to put back in and are expensive. They can run up to a hundred bucks if you have to order one. What I meant to say is that you are gonna do the work for me! 
|
|
I have had mine for about 2 weeks. I too as little concerned about very slight rotational and end play of the cylinder.
I am going to guess about .003-.004 rotational and .001 - .002 end play. This weekend, I showed it to a guy I know who was (really) a S&W armorer for the local PD. He checked the gun out and said that it was as tight as they leave the factory. So, a little play is normal. |
