Springfield Prodigy (Page 8 of 9)
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Originally Posted By Corey44: how many rounds is every one seeing before needing to relube? i'm at 1050 rounds and after about 250ish rounds i have to lightly relube. it's no big deal, just wondering. That is normal for 1911 based guns … drop or two on the barrel, hood and inside rails is all you need. No need to break it down to do it. |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: That is normal for 1911 based guns … drop or two on the barrel, hood and inside rails is all you need. No need to break it down to do it. Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Corey44: how many rounds is every one seeing before needing to relube? i'm at 1050 rounds and after about 250ish rounds i have to lightly relube. it's no big deal, just wondering. That is normal for 1911 based guns … drop or two on the barrel, hood and inside rails is all you need. No need to break it down to do it. Yep. Normal for a properly tuned one. |
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Originally Posted By Corey44: im coming from the world of glocks and i swear the only time they ever malfunctioned was right after i cleaned them lol Diff ball game with 1911s and they need lube. No need to be fancy with the lube either … been using Amsoil 10w-40 for years … best gun lube ever … |
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Fitted a new Fusion ejector (the factory one is really too long and causes interference ... broke ... common issue) EGW Guide Rod with 8lb Spring + WC Shok-Buff EGW HD Safety EGW Slide Stop EGW Magwell EGW Firing Pin Stop Wolff 18lb Hammer Spring Dawson Extended Firing Pin Tuned the OEM Extractor Polished OEM Sear Tuned the OEM Sear Spring My 5" gun is a freakin' sewing machine now, so much smoother than in all OEM config ... factory trigger is settling in very nicely and I see 0 reason to replaced until something breaks ... 0 malfunctions out of 200rds fired and I was banging away the target at 25 yards! |
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Thanks for the updates! I've started to make gradual changes to 5" Comp now that it is semi-broken in. Roughly 600 rds of 115gr FMJs without issues. Ejection pattern is okay, +/- 2 feet to the side. Work completed or in progress: - EGW 1-piece guiderod with the equipped 8 lb spring. i do have 9 and 11 lb Sprinco but so far the 8 lbs seemed to work just fine so will leave this alone. - 19 lb mainspring just waiting for the new EGW mainspring housing to arrive. - Colt sear spring ready for tuning. - Dawson extended firing pin yet to be installed. Minor tweaking of the magazine release spring (cut 2 coils off) but it is still less than optimal for mag release on the run. Delayed for future change out. I can see why you all changed out the OEM slide stop lever, it is okay for a carry gun but less than optimal for competition. Delayed for future change out. Originally Posted By thehun06: Fitted a new Fusion ejector (the factory one is really too long and causes interference ... broke ... common issue) EGW Guide Rod with 8lb Spring + WC Shok-Buff EGW HD Safety EGW Slide Stop EGW Magwell EGW Firing Pin Stop Wolff 18lb Hammer Spring Dawson Extended Firing Pin Tuned the OEM Extractor Polished OEM Sear Tuned the OEM Sear Spring My 5" gun is a freakin' sewing machine now, so much smoother than in all OEM config ... factory trigger is settling in very nicely and I see 0 reason to replaced until something breaks ... 0 malfunctions out of 200rds fired and I was banging away the target at 25 yards! |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Fitted a new Fusion ejector (the factory one is really too long and causes interference ... broke ... common issue) EGW Guide Rod with 8lb Spring + WC Shok-Buff EGW HD Safety EGW Slide Stop EGW Magwell EGW Firing Pin Stop Wolff 18lb Hammer Spring Dawson Extended Firing Pin Tuned the OEM Extractor Polished OEM Sear Tuned the OEM Sear Spring My 5" gun is a freakin' sewing machine now, so much smoother than in all OEM config ... factory trigger is settling in very nicely and I see 0 reason to replaced until something breaks ... 0 malfunctions out of 200rds fired and I was banging away the target at 25 yards! I’m just a hair over 1500 rounds on my 5” prodigy. My only “upgrades” so far is an EGW magwell, Trijicon fiber optic rod, and EGW sear spring that I have set at a 3.5# pull. I have near zero hang up on my sear plunger now. Everything else is factory so far. It’s running so good that I can’t see any reason to swap anything else. But I am eyeing up the EGW slide lock. My factory one can be a pain to line up just right and snap in place. My last range trip I mag dumped 20 rounds of 124gr hollow points as fast as I could and it never skipped a beat. It has finally made its way to my HD nightstand gun. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I’m just a hair over 1500 rounds on my 5” prodigy. My only “upgrades” so far is an EGW magwell, Trijicon fiber optic rod, and EGW sear spring that I have set at a 3.5# pull. I have near zero hang up on my sear plunger now. Everything else is factory so far. It’s running so good that I can’t see any reason to swap anything else. But I am eyeing up the EGW slide lock. My factory one can be a pain to line up just right and snap in place. My last range trip I mag dumped 20 rounds of 124gr hollow points as fast as I could and it never skipped a beat. It has finally made its way to my HD nightstand gun. The EGW slide lock is nice, glad i put one in mine. Also love the Dawson guide rod...I hate tools for guns. Otherwise I installed the EGW Ignition kit, sans hammer b/c I just haven't gotten to it. The thing just runs, ~1750 rounds with zero issues using both OEM and Stacatto mags. SRO makes it sooo nice, and fun to shoot under NODs. 
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I’m on a similar path with my 5 inch Comp. Mine has worked great out of the box, but I bought it with plans to build it out for local steel matches. It’s my first 2011, and I’ve been enjoying it immensely. Things I’ve done so far: -EGW mainspring housing -EGW magwell Parts on order: -EGW guide rod -EGW extended slide stop I’ll probably replace the safety at some point with an ambi from EGW as well, because I’m not a fan of the stock unit. At that point I’m wondering if it makes sense to just bite the bullet and go all out with an ignition kit, firing pin, etc. Alternatively, I might just shoot the gun until I have an issue of some kind. I’m also optic shopping right now, so that’ll be coming soon ish. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Yeah I don't see a reason to swap out the ignition ... I do not have disco drag or anything and the factory trigger has settled in very nicely ... My biggest issue with the gun was that it had too much spring weight for a 5" - 9mm gun and the factory safety was a joke ... The gun broke its ejector on my first range trip, prior to that it had 100 rounds fired ...  Looking at how long (way too long) and the profile of the ejector, the round was def beating it up to the point the post broke in half ... I bought a new (non-MIM) ejector and used EdBrown's instructions ... now its launching it nicely ... glue'd and pinned and relieved it so the rounds do not cause an interferance ... |
| Installed my EGW guide rod kit and slide stop after work today. Fantastic parts, very happy with them. I also ordered a 12 lb spring from EGW to have on hand and maybe try at the range. Anyone here swapped the factory 5 inch spring out for a 12? Thoughts? I haven't had any issues yet, so I will probably just shoot it with the 8lb spring that came with the EGW kit unless I run into problems. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Installed my EGW guide rod kit and slide stop after work today. Fantastic parts, very happy with them. I also ordered a 12 lb spring from EGW to have on hand and maybe try at the range. Anyone here swapped the factory 5 inch spring out for a 12? Thoughts? I haven't had any issues yet, so I will probably just shoot it with the 8lb spring that came with the EGW kit unless I run into problems. I would say it would be over sprung … 5” guns need lighter springs … more mass to over come … hence why EGW includes an 8lb spring vs an equal or heavier than factory weight … I do run a WC Shok-Buff in mine as all my 1911s have. |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: I would say it would be over sprung … 5” guns need lighter springs … more mass to over come … hence why EGW includes an 8lb spring vs an equal or heavier than factory weight … I do run a WC Shok-Buff in mine as all my 1911s have. Fair enough. I’ll run the 8lb spring next time I hit the range and see how it goes. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Yeah I don't see a reason to swap out the ignition ... I do not have disco drag or anything and the factory trigger has settled in very nicely ... My biggest issue with the gun was that it had too much spring weight for a 5" - 9mm gun and the factory safety was a joke ... The gun broke its ejector on my first range trip, prior to that it had 100 rounds fired ... Looking at how long (way too long) and the profile of the ejector, the round was def beating it up to the point the post broke in half ... I bought a new (non-MIM) ejector and used EdBrown's instructions ... now its launching it nicely ... glue'd and pinned and relieved it so the rounds do not cause an interferance ... How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. I went with the EGW because I’ve read of a couple instances of Atlas guide rods deploying inside the slide and locking it up. That’s not a possibility with the EGW design. Obviously loads of people use the Atlas and Dawson units without an issue, so I wouldn’t worry too much about it, but that’s one factor that made me look at the EGW. You can also use a bent paper clip with the EGW and they sell a 5 pack of the pins separately that I picked up as well. I still might pick up a Dawson tool less option to check out at some point in the future. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" - 9mm Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... Thanks. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Thanks. Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... Thanks. Anytime |
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Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: I went with the EGW because I’ve read of a couple instances of Atlas guide rods deploying inside the slide and locking it up. That’s not a possibility with the EGW design. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. I went with the EGW because I’ve read of a couple instances of Atlas guide rods deploying inside the slide and locking it up. That’s not a possibility with the EGW design. Put me in the camp that had their Atlas guide rod locking up under recoil and causing malfunctions. The Dawson gave me no issues, whatsoever. |
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Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Poor construction/QC or tweaking for fun. My Prodigy was fine out of the box. The two-piece guide rod is crap, though and would loosen up. It was swapped for an Atlas then a Dawson when the Atlas started malfunctioning. I picked the Atlas and Dawson guide rods because they are tool-less, unlike the factory guide rod and some other aftermarket ones. During that time, I wanted a better trigger and a specific recoil impulse similar to my Beretta, so I swapped to a flat trigger, lowered the hammer spring power and compensated the increased slide speed with a heavier recoil spring. Light primer strikes were an issue so I added an extended steel firing pin. No problems with function since. I caused the problems, fixed them, then got the gun that shoots the way I like it. Out of the box it was okay, but didn't hit all the notes for me. |
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Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Well ... Springfield put out a starter platform ... and keep it "affordable" ... some parts are meh and needs attention ... The 2-piece recoil rod is just a stupid move on their end honestly ... it costs more to make than a single piece ... Outside of the safety ... the parts I needed are less than $150  I'll be honest, the way my Prodigy feels and shoots right now ... is top notch ... TOP |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Fitted a new Fusion ejector (the factory one is really too long and causes interference ... broke ... common issue) EGW Guide Rod with 8lb Spring + WC Shok-Buff EGW HD Safety EGW Slide Stop EGW Magwell EGW Firing Pin Stop Wolff 18lb Hammer Spring Dawson Extended Firing Pin Tuned the OEM Extractor Polished OEM Sear Tuned the OEM Sear Spring My 5" gun is a freakin' sewing machine now, so much smoother than in all OEM config ... factory trigger is settling in very nicely and I see 0 reason to replaced until something breaks ... 0 malfunctions out of 200rds fired and I was banging away the target at 25 yards! how much to add these parts? |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Well ... Springfield put out a starter platform ... and keep it "affordable" ... some parts are meh and needs attention ... The 2-piece recoil rod is just a stupid move on their end honestly ... it costs more to make than a single piece ... Outside of the safety ... the parts I needed are less than $150 I'll be honest, the way my Prodigy feels and shoots right now ... is top notch ... TOP Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Well ... Springfield put out a starter platform ... and keep it "affordable" ... some parts are meh and needs attention ... The 2-piece recoil rod is just a stupid move on their end honestly ... it costs more to make than a single piece ... Outside of the safety ... the parts I needed are less than $150 I'll be honest, the way my Prodigy feels and shoots right now ... is top notch ... TOP I think with trigger, springs and guide rod (the only modifications I've done) I'm in it for about $200. It's not expensive to make these things personalized. Now the guys that have real issues with their guns, I get the hatred. Also, I think the Tisas is better out of the box, comparing the two. |
Why is the sky blue?
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What makes the green grass grow?
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Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Assuming this is a genuine question, I’ll say that (for me at least) I didn’t actually *need* to spend any more money since mine ran out of the box. With that said, I replaced some parts that were personal preference. For example, the stock mainspring housing is plastic. I replaced it with a steel one from EGW which both feels and looks better, while adding weight. I also added a magwell because I wanted one. I changed the guide rod kit out because I don’t like the two piece design that comes with it stock, not because of any functional issues. For me, I wanted a platform to build out to my preferences. Again, mine ran out of the box. The changes I’ve made are to make the gun what I want it to be, not unlike building out an AR. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
| The only thing I've done for functionality is the extended firing pin. The 2 piece guiderod is annoying so that got replaced with a Dawson. The safety kept coming apart so that got replaced with an EGW. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Anytime Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... Thanks. Anytime What about for +P home defense loads? With the factory stock spring mine runs flawlessly and locks back every time. With defense hollow points you can really feel the slide coming back much harder. Just for shits and giggles I just ordered a Wilson Combat 8 and 11 pound spring to play around with because it’s fun lol Also ordered their bullet proof sear spring. |
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: What about for +P home defense loads? With the factory stock spring mine runs flawlessly and locks back every time. With defense hollow points you can really feel the slide coming back much harder. Just for shits and giggles I just ordered a Wilson Combat 8 and 11 pound spring to play around with because it’s fun lol Also ordered their bullet proof sear spring. Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: Originally Posted By thehun06: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: How did you determine it had too much spring? For a moment I thought mine didn’t have enough spring when it failed to go into battery during the initial few hundred rounds. Luckily all my break in issues have cleared up. I also thought about getting the EGW guide rod but realized it still requires a pin(tool) for removal. I do agree that the factory safety could be improved on. I may address that issue soon as well. But I need to decide if I want stainless or black. Cartridge, slide type, optics etc ... if your spring is too high and you have a full slide with no lightening cuts plus an optic ... your gun may give you fits until you drop either actual weight or weight in your recoil spring that it needs to over come ... this is why on 5" - 9mm slides, the best combo is 8lb spring + extended Dawson firing pin + 17/18lb hammer spring ... now on 4.25" guns ... you can run a 12 lb spring because of its shorter nature and less weight ... It is really about balancing with 1911 designs ... I can tell you without a doubt that the 8lb spring is the right choice on a 5" Prodigy ... EGW's recoil spring kit is superior to the tool-less in my opinion ... using a pin to remove the system is not really an issue ... I've had tool-less designs pop up upon firing ... no thanks ... I don't want to introduce a failure point ... on the EGW ... nothing fails ... Thanks. Anytime What about for +P home defense loads? With the factory stock spring mine runs flawlessly and locks back every time. With defense hollow points you can really feel the slide coming back much harder. Just for shits and giggles I just ordered a Wilson Combat 8 and 11 pound spring to play around with because it’s fun lol Also ordered their bullet proof sear spring. Haven’t done +P loads |
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Originally Posted By bravo5two: Quick question - Are the Prodigy safety detent and spring (and slide lock detent) the same as single stack 1911? Mine launched into the garage abyss when I was reassemblying the trigger/safety...Ughh. It should be. |
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Took the Prodigy with me to the range today and managed to run a couple mags through before the match. No issues with 150 rounds or so today shooting steel. Attached File |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
| Another trouble-free 200 or so rounds at the range yesterday. My youngest brother shot it and was cleaning plate racks immediately after having shot several other pistols. He remarked on how much smoother and quicker/easier to shoot the Prodigy was. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I installed a Wilson Combat 11# spring in mine today and ran 100 rounds of Monarch 115gr fmj The spring is about 1/2” longer than the factory prodigy spring but it ran flawlessly with maybe a tad less recoil. Slide locked on every mag. Is yours a 5 or 4.25? I’ve been using the 8lb that came with the EGW guide rod kit without any issues, although I ordered a 12lb spring in case I wanted to try that later on. |
Originally Posted By Aimless:...If you put some rare Russian machinegun in a giant mouse trap and painted "ATF" on the side you'd still find Larry caught in it in the morning
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Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Is yours a 5 or 4.25? I’ve been using the 8lb that came with the EGW guide rod kit without any issues, although I ordered a 12lb spring in case I wanted to try that later on. Originally Posted By Virginia_Shooter: Originally Posted By Cajun_Redneck: I installed a Wilson Combat 11# spring in mine today and ran 100 rounds of Monarch 115gr fmj The spring is about 1/2” longer than the factory prodigy spring but it ran flawlessly with maybe a tad less recoil. Slide locked on every mag. Is yours a 5 or 4.25? I’ve been using the 8lb that came with the EGW guide rod kit without any issues, although I ordered a 12lb spring in case I wanted to try that later on. 5” I ran a mag of sig v-crown through it yesterday and it felt noticeably softer and functioned flawlessly |
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Update - Tried the 19 lb mainspring along with the EGW equipped 8 lb recoil spring. Worked fine for both 115 and 124 gr loads. I wanted to drop the trigger weight a little so replaced the 19 lb mainspring with 17 lb today. 150 rds down range without issues. A few minor personal issues - Sloppy grip from the holster under the clock resulted in a few hang ups so I will need to do a little filing/tuning for earlier release of the trigger. Need an extended mag release but OOS everywhere. Originally Posted By bravo5two: I've started to make gradual changes to 5" Comp now that it is semi-broken in. Roughly 600 rds of 115gr FMJs without issues. Ejection pattern is okay, +/- 2 feet to the side. Work completed or in progress: - EGW 1-piece guiderod with the equipped 8 lb spring. i do have 9 and 11 lb Sprinco but so far the 8 lbs seemed to work just fine so will leave this alone. - 19 lb mainspring just waiting for the new EGW mainspring housing to arrive. - Colt sear spring ready for tuning. - Dawson extended firing pin yet to be installed. Minor tweaking of the magazine release spring (cut 2 coils off) but it is still less than optimal for mag release on the run. Delayed for future change out. I can see why you all changed out the OEM slide stop lever, it is okay for a carry gun but less than optimal for competition. Delayed for future change out. |
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Originally Posted By manderson1911: What issues are you guys having with the atlas gun works guide rod? I've had it in for a little bit maybe only 500 rounds but no issues? It's common for it to lock up on its own? That disappointing. Basically, that's it. It was locking up on it's own while firing. |
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Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Why do people put grip tap on their glocks? Why are people spending almost as much on radian ramjet barrels as a blue label glock Why do people swap out the plastic oem sights for trijicon night sites Why do people swap out their oem glock triggers for aftermarket. Same reason. It takes far less effort to resolve the areas of concern in a prodigy than say a glock with terrible egonomics |
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Originally Posted By ShaggyNuckles: Why do people put grip tap on their glocks? Why are people spending almost as much on radian ramjet barrels as a blue label glock Why do people swap out the plastic oem sights for trijicon night sites Why do people swap out their oem glock triggers for aftermarket. Same reason. It takes far less effort to resolve the areas of concern in a prodigy than say a glock with terrible egonomics Originally Posted By ShaggyNuckles: Originally Posted By pogmothoin: why do you have to rebuild an almost new gun? Why do people put grip tap on their glocks? Why are people spending almost as much on radian ramjet barrels as a blue label glock Why do people swap out the plastic oem sights for trijicon night sites Why do people swap out their oem glock triggers for aftermarket. Same reason. It takes far less effort to resolve the areas of concern in a prodigy than say a glock with terrible egonomics Also. I have yet to find a firearm that fits me perfect or delivers on how I want to shoot etc. We modify to fit our needs. Some don’t understand. |
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Originally Posted By thehun06: That is normal for 1911 based guns … drop or two on the barrel, hood and inside rails is all you need. No need to break it down to do it. Maybe it's superstition, but I oil as necessary and clean a 1911 every 300-500 rounds. I don't know if they can go longer between cleanings though. |
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Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Maybe it's superstition, but I oil as necessary and clean a 1911 every 300-500 rounds. I don't know if they can go longer between cleanings though. Originally Posted By NN300BLK: Originally Posted By thehun06: That is normal for 1911 based guns … drop or two on the barrel, hood and inside rails is all you need. No need to break it down to do it. Maybe it's superstition, but I oil as necessary and clean a 1911 every 300-500 rounds. I don't know if they can go longer between cleanings though. Several of mine have. My STI Edge would regularly go longer than that without a cleaning. I'm pretty sure one year all I did was add lube before the match and wipe it down after. No disassembly. When I was really paying attention I'd do more but most guns will run dirty for long time as long as they aren't dry. |
BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles.
People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird.
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Originally Posted By thehun06: Also. I have yet to find a firearm that fits me perfect or delivers on how I want to shoot etc. We modify to fit our needs. Some don’t understand. Yeah... Its wild that same person who strokes out at the thought of swapping out an ignition kit and guide rod to address 95 percent of the criticism of a particular firearm, will have no issues dropping a Geiselle trigger into an SR15/SR25 and running a non kac can... The reality is that unless you are paying somebody like Chambers or Mercier to do a hand build, you are essentially getting production level guns with degrees of QC for the majority of 2011's on the market. You can spend 1200 dollar, and a grand on parts and real smithing to arrive at the same endpoint as say somebody who drops 5k on this month's new hotness. |