Posted: 10/26/2014 6:19:49 PM EDT
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out of the box. Took the new gun to the range today and nothing. No marks on the primers at all. Took the gun apart and removed the firing pin and see nothing wrong. Send it in or is there something I can do? |
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Quoted:
First this is to check and make sure the ILS system is in the unlocked position. THIS Look at the Mainspring housing....there are two dots that indicate state of the internal locking system (ILS)...the dots should be in the vertical position...if the dots are horizontal (side by side) the gun is locked and you will need to use the provided tool to unlock the gun second point of order.....remove the ILS 
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| You're implying that the hammer is dropping smartly when the trigger is pulled. If that's the case the ILS is not in-play. I'd assume that the results would be obvious, but try the pencil test. Insert a pencil, eraser first in the muzzle, letting it fall back to the bolt face. Holding the pistol vertically, pull the trigger. The pencil should be launched out of the muzzle, verifying (or not) the function of the fire control system, and fp. Gotta be something obvious like a burr in the fp channel. |
| The other thing to check would be the over travel screw on the trigger being set incorrectly causing the sear to stop on the 1/4 cock notch (springfield's hammers usually have a 1/2 cock and a 1/4 cock notch) The 1/4 cock notch is just shy of the firing pin, but almost looks like it's down all the way. |
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Originally Posted By chrismartin: The other thing to check would be the over travel screw on the trigger being set incorrectly causing the sear to stop on the 1/4 cock notch (springfield's hammers usually have a 1/2 cock and a 1/4 cock notch) The 1/4 cock notch is just shy of the firing pin, but almost looks like it's down all the way. I backed the screw out 2 turns and it will now launch a pencil out the muzzle. There is nothing on this screw in the manual. What is the correct way to set it? |
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Quoted:
I think it is this. I backed the screw out 2 turns and it will now launch a pencil out the muzzle. There is nothing on this screw in the manual. What is the correct way to set it? Quoted:
Originally Posted By chrismartin:
The other thing to check would be the over travel screw on the trigger being set incorrectly causing the sear to stop on the 1/4 cock notch (springfield's hammers usually have a 1/2 cock and a 1/4 cock notch) The 1/4 cock notch is just shy of the firing pin, but almost looks like it's down all the way. I backed the screw out 2 turns and it will now launch a pencil out the muzzle. There is nothing on this screw in the manual. What is the correct way to set it? This is a FREQUENT cause of this discription of malfunction and has also happened to me. I HATE a lot of slop in a trigger, so I find myself taking up the travel in an adjustable 1911 trigger. Correct way to set it? There's much said about this, Google yields much. That said, again, I HATE a lot of trigger travel. my method is to tighten the over travel until I produce the failure to fire that you speak of, this is easy to determine, tighten the screw , cock the hammer, release hammer slowly all the way downm repeat until it gets "stuck" at the "half cock". then back off slightly until it is a clean release all the way down to make contact with the firing pin. Now you're set for minimum travel without the failure. Caveat, there are MANY opinions on this, I am **NOT** a gunsmith, This is how I arrive to MY personal preference. YMMV. |
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Quoted: I think it is this. I backed the screw out 2 turns and it will now launch a pencil out the muzzle. There is nothing on this screw in the manual. What is the correct way to set it? Quoted: Quoted: The other thing to check would be the over travel screw on the trigger being set incorrectly causing the sear to stop on the 1/4 cock notch (springfield's hammers usually have a 1/2 cock and a 1/4 cock notch) The 1/4 cock notch is just shy of the firing pin, but almost looks like it's down all the way. I backed the screw out 2 turns and it will now launch a pencil out the muzzle. There is nothing on this screw in the manual. What is the correct way to set it? Unscrew it all the way. Put some red loctite on it then screw it back in jusssst enough that it isn't an eyesore. I HATE overtravel screws. |
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Quoted:
I fired a 100 rounds today with no problems. The slide failed to close completely a few times but know this is normal on a new gun. Thank you Ned Da fuq? a 100 rounds? That's not even enough to masturbate to! Go get a few hundred round boxes of white box, go back to the range and don't post again until your hands and arms ache and the barrel is glowing. Then, you've shot the effin' thing! 
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Quoted:
I fired a 100 rounds today with no problems. The slide failed to close completely a few times but know this is normal on a new gun. Thank you Ned That is not normal at all. You need to diagnose and correct the problem. It ain't gonna heal on it's own. |
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after making sure the hammer and sear hooks no longer rub when pulling the trigger and slowing dropping the hammer back off the screw another 1/2 to full turn and loctite in place. this is correct way and is best done without the mainspring housing in place just working the hammer by hand to feel for interference from the sear |
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Quoted:
this is correct way and is best done without the mainspring housing in place just working the hammer by hand to feel for interference from the sear Quoted:
Quoted:
after making sure the hammer and sear hooks no longer rub when pulling the trigger and slowing dropping the hammer back off the screw another 1/2 to full turn and loctite in place. this is correct way and is best done without the mainspring housing in place just working the hammer by hand to feel for interference from the sear +1 An improperly adjusted over travel screw can lead to damaged sear and hammer surfaces, or an unexpected full auto experience. |