Posted: 7/13/2016 7:50:36 PM EDT
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Was out shooting my 45 trp and the slide locked partially open and wouldn't close. After tearing it apart I found the side of the slide/frame appeared to be gaulled. Springfield has not responded via email after 4 days so I'm wondering if anyone could recommend a place I could send it to get worked on. I love shooting this gun but this has me bummed out... |
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Call Springfield Ditto. I've never had good success with emailing them. But calling them has always worked well for me. Don't send it to someone else as it won't be under warranty. If you contact Springfield they'll pay for shipping and you'll have it back quickly and probably in better shape than when it left. Do you happen to have any pictures of the damage? |
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I thought they had figured out how to fix that years ago OP, what lube were you using? I know there have been improvements. I've read the 70s Smith auto-loaders were just terrible. However, its still stainless steel. Case in point, try to find a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt in stainless steel. It won't happen, cause they don't exist. What stainless giveth in looks and corrosion protection, it taketh away in hardness and yield strength. |
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OP is that a stainless TRP that you had re-finished or are ALL TRP frames SS? I have two AK TRP's so now I'm wondering if it's stainless underneath. ETA - NM I'm tarded. 5 seconds on their website tells me: Forged Carbon Steel, Black Armory Kote™ What I think sucks is that ALL Dan Wessons are stainless steel. I'm just not sure if their Black Duty finish option is enough to prevent these kinds of problems. I wish carbon-steel frames with stainless slides were a more popular option. I think that would be a good compromise (if you must have stainless) |
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Quoted: What I think sucks is that ALL Dan Wessons are stainless steel. I'm just not sure if their Black Duty finish option is enough to prevent these kinds of problems. I wish carbon-steel frames with stainless slides were a more popular option. I think that would be a good compromise (if you must have stainless) Quoted: Quoted: OP is that a stainless TRP that you had re-finished or are ALL TRP frames SS? I have two AK TRP's so now I'm wondering if it's stainless underneath. ETA - NM I'm tarded. 5 seconds on their website tells me: Forged Carbon Steel, Black Armory Kote™ What I think sucks is that ALL Dan Wessons are stainless steel. I'm just not sure if their Black Duty finish option is enough to prevent these kinds of problems. I wish carbon-steel frames with stainless slides were a more popular option. I think that would be a good compromise (if you must have stainless) I have 4100 rounds on my 2014 stainless DW Valor and have had no issues. All I did was lube before each session and clean every 1000 rounds. |
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I have 4100 rounds on my 2014 stainless DW Valor and have had no issues. All I did was lube before each session and clean every 1000 rounds. Just because you haven't had galling issues, doesn't mean the slide-to-frame fit isn't getting sloppy. It has been my experience that a stainless slide/frame tolerance gets loose much faster than a comparable carbon-steel gun. No offense intended. Just my personal experience. |
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Quoted: Just because you haven't had galling issues, doesn't mean the slide-to-frame fit isn't getting sloppy. It has been my experience that a stainless slide/frame tolerance gets loose much faster than a comparable carbon-steel gun. No offense intended. Just my personal experience. Quoted: Quoted: I have 4100 rounds on my 2014 stainless DW Valor and have had no issues. All I did was lube before each session and clean every 1000 rounds. Just because you haven't had galling issues, doesn't mean the slide-to-frame fit isn't getting sloppy. It has been my experience that a stainless slide/frame tolerance gets loose much faster than a comparable carbon-steel gun. No offense intended. Just my personal experience. The gun is as tight as the day I bought it. I've had what you're describing happen in far fewer rounds with carbon steel Colts. |
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The gun in question is all stainless. It was clean and lubed with remoil. There may be better lubes, probably something thicker but I just don't know what that would be.
It locked up after about 30 rounds. It only has maybe 500 rounds through it at most. I got springfield on the phone and they sent a FedEx label right over...going out tomorrow. |
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I've shot many tens of thousands of rounds through my stainless guns including 1911s and have never had a galling issue, nor have the pistols become loose.
I imagine any decent lube applied correctly where it's needed will do the job. I'd like to earn more about what happened to the OPs TRP and how things were resolved. |
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rem oil sucks for a lube keep it for rusted bolts.
oil for your guns: break free clp, g96 clp, weapons shield, ezzox, mil-comm tw25b grease, tetra grease, krytox, motor oil, grease up to ngl 2 ratting, etc. you want something 10w or thicker. Some use grease on the rails, hammer hooks, barrel hood and bushing area and oil on the pins, |
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I've shot many tens of thousands of rounds through my stainless guns including 1911s and have never had a galling issue, nor have the pistols become loose. I imagine any decent lube applied correctly where it's needed will do the job. I'd like to earn more about what happened to the OPs TRP and how things were resolved. I slather my stainless guns in motor oil because galling has always been on the back of my mind, but have never actually seen in on SA, Colt, or Wilsons. |
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I use TW-25B and good old CLP on my 1911. (Carbon steel SACS Colt.) Carbon steel guns can be fired dry and worn ones will keep running. OP's having friction issues with a stainless gun that may be due to bad fitting, wrong lube or underlubing it, or less likely some metallurgical fuckery. |
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Carbon steel guns can be fired dry and worn ones will keep running. OP's having friction issues with a stainless gun that may be due to bad fitting, wrong lube or underlubing it, or less likely some metallurgical fuckery. Quoted:
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I use TW-25B and good old CLP on my 1911. (Carbon steel SACS Colt.) Carbon steel guns can be fired dry and worn ones will keep running. OP's having friction issues with a stainless gun that may be due to bad fitting, wrong lube or underlubing it, or less likely some metallurgical fuckery. Can't carbon steel gall too though? |
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Can't carbon steel gall too though? Quoted:
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I use TW-25B and good old CLP on my 1911. (Carbon steel SACS Colt.) Carbon steel guns can be fired dry and worn ones will keep running. OP's having friction issues with a stainless gun that may be due to bad fitting, wrong lube or underlubing it, or less likely some metallurgical fuckery. Can't carbon steel gall too though? Galling is typical for alloys and steels that rely on an surface layer of oxidized material for protection, for SS it's chromium oxide, that's stripped off and then damaging the underlying metal. Carbon steel doesn't have a protective oxidized layer (that'd be rust and no bueno). Some higher end guns use Titanium Nitride to protect their stainless parts. Wilson Ultima Lube claims to have anti-galling compounds in it (whatever that means)--but I've had similar results with synthetic motor oil. SS guns require a shit ton of lubrication to keep the moving surfaces properly protected. |
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I know there have been improvements. I've read the 70s Smith auto-loaders were just terrible. However, its still stainless steel. Case in point, try to find a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt in stainless steel. It won't happen, cause they don't exist. What stainless giveth in looks and corrosion protection, it taketh away in hardness and yield strength. Quoted:
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I thought they had figured out how to fix that years ago OP, what lube were you using? I know there have been improvements. I've read the 70s Smith auto-loaders were just terrible. However, its still stainless steel. Case in point, try to find a Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolt in stainless steel. It won't happen, cause they don't exist. What stainless giveth in looks and corrosion protection, it taketh away in hardness and yield strength. Stainless has other advantages too, such as resistance to heat and abrasion. Why it makes great barrel material. I do prefer carbon steels for M1911 slides and frames. You won't find a stainless Grade 8 bolt because of this thing called SAE J429. If you want a stainless bolt with the same tensile strength as a medium carbon steel ( as per the materials standard of SAE J429) bolt of the SAE J429 Grade 5 or 8 you will have to go to a different standard, or none at all really. You can get 17-4PH stainless bolts that are STRONGER than Grade 8 bolts (yield and tensile) but you will pay handsomely for them. SST's biggest drawback is usually cost. You could buy a pile of Grade 8 coated or plated bolts for the cost of one 17-4PH bolt. This is with martensitic types. Austenitic stainless steels that can't be heat treated are generally rather weak.. and they are the most common type of stainless fasteners by far (18-8 SST). Austenitic is not used in 1911s of course. |
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I thought they had figured out how to fix that years ago OP, what lube were you using? Quoted:
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Hmm, stainless. Surprise, surprise. I thought they had figured out how to fix that years ago OP, what lube were you using? There's a reason Bullseye gunsmiths avoid stainless like the plague. It just can't stop itself from galling. OP, consider getting accurails and then hard-chroming the thing. Of course you should see what Springfield will do first... |
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There's a reason Bullseye gunsmiths avoid stainless like the plague. It just can't stop itself from galling. OP, consider getting accurails and then hard-chroming the thing. Of course you should see what Springfield will do first... Quoted:
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Hmm, stainless. Surprise, surprise. I thought they had figured out how to fix that years ago OP, what lube were you using? There's a reason Bullseye gunsmiths avoid stainless like the plague. It just can't stop itself from galling. OP, consider getting accurails and then hard-chroming the thing. Of course you should see what Springfield will do first... I have one high end Wilson in stainless, everything else is made from carbon steel. I asked the guy who built my SS Wilson what to about galling, and he replied "keep it well-lubed." |
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When i saw the picture, I thought it looked like rem oil. keep that stuff for a rimfire or frozen bolts, its not much better than wd-40. When I get a new stainless 1911 I add a little bit of grease with mobil-1 to the rails to prevent that. I swear by red aviation grease. |
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I use Mobil 1 on my SA's. Quoted:
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Be interesting to hear what lube SA recommends. I'm pretty old, and I remember AMT? Having the same galling issue. I want to say they were talking crisco as a lube to prevent. I use Mobil 1 on my SA's. I use mobil 1 zero or 5 wt for a lot of gun stuff. Lubriplate grease on slides for me though. |
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Ok, so I got the gun back on wednesday. I haven't shot it but it seems fine. The oil they put on it is definitely heavier. The invoice just called it a refit....no charge, no explanation. I can see where they cleaned it up but didn't really change the tolerances so I will keep it oiled up and hope for the best! |
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Ok, so I got the gun back on wednesday. I haven't shot it but it seems fine. The oil they put on it is definitely heavier. The invoice just called it a refit....no charge, no explanation. I can see where they cleaned it up but didn't really change the tolerances so I will keep it oiled up and hope for the best! If you keep it properly lubed with a good oil or grease product you shouldn't be having any more difficulties. Good luck. |