Posted: 6/14/2010 8:52:21 AM EDT
| So, my 1911 shoots pretty well, and is generally a slick piece......except that I don't really care for the one piece guide rod it has installed. Would it be possible to swap out the one piece guide rod for a two piece "G.I." style without it adversely affecting my pistol's accuracy? Any recommendations for parts, springs, etc? And does it matter that the thing has an aluminum frame? Thanks! |
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You should have no problem changing out, then. I used parts from Ed Brown or Colt. Ed Brown was cheaper. I used Brownells because they have a small parts order option to save shipping charges.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1357/Product/RECOIL_PLUG___GUIDE_for_1911_AUTO They only show the blued Ed Brown plug. If your requirement is a stainless plug then use the Colt's. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=10614/pid=0/sku/Recoil_Spring_Plug__Dull_SS |
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I know the answer provided has been yes however I am interested in the alloy frame aspect. Is a steel guide rod what normally comes in an alloy frame? Well, since the guide rod is in the slide...can't see that it would matter. Didn't know if it would or not, hence my asking. My guide rod is, IIRC, stainless steel. Would I have to worry about spring ##age upon switching setups? Or would the correct weight spring come with the unit, or would I have to order that separately.....? |
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spring should be the same. I did it with my sti spartan. Just dropped out the full length and put in the gi and plug. Me too. Hated the one-piece guide rod and tool needed to field strip my Kimber 5" Custom II. I also enjoy the lighter feel using the GI plug and hollow steel shorty spring guide. |
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same spring rate 16 to 18.5. frame material does not matter. slide will still impact steel plug. carbon or cres your choice.one pat is in the slide the other rest in the frame. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile What does the part in red mean? And, which spring ##age should I lean towards, what're the benefits of the one vs. the other? |
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One piece guide rods are stupid, period. Makes things more complicated to work on, more likely to be damaged. You should have no problem with swapping for the two piece.
Before answering your spring rate question, what type of ammo do you shoot? If you shoot low power Wolf target rounds versus Federal HST +Ps, there's a big difference. I believe my SIG full size runs an 18.5# and that works great for me. I went to an 18# in my Hi-Power because I shoot +P+ now and then and I'd rather err on the combat round requirement than the target. |
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One piece guide rods are stupid, period. Makes things more complicated to work on, more likely to be damaged. You should have no problem with swapping for the two piece. Before answering your spring rate question, what type of ammo do you shoot? If you shoot low power Wolf target rounds versus Federal HST +Ps, there's a big difference. I believe my SIG full size runs an 18.5# and that works great for me. I went to an 18# in my Hi-Power because I shoot +P+ now and then and I'd rather err on the combat round requirement than the target. Right now? Ball ammo, standard pressure loads, no +P yet. What's a safe minimum, and why would you go higher? |
| Higher handles cycling of +P or +P+ loads better. The battering the gun takes with the slide going back is worse than the higher velocity of the return. On the Hi-Power it is extremely important to lessen the speed of the slide hitting the frame if shooting a lot of +P loads. The newer .40 cals have a stronger frame––machined casting as opposed to the forging on my C series HP, so can handle the slamming back better. On the 1911, the same principal applies: lessen the velocity of the slide cycling even at the expense of its forward movement being faster. I would not go below 16# in any Browning link design pistol. I have 18" in all three of mine. Only downside is it's a bit harder to hand cycle the slide. |
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same spring rate 16 to 18.5. frame material does not matter. slide will still impact steel plug. carbon or cres your choice.one pat is in the slide the other rest in the frame. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile What does the part in red mean? And, which spring ##age should I lean towards, what're the benefits of the one vs. the other? Carbon = carbon steel ie non stainless CRES = corrosion resistant steel or SS or stainless. if you using factory 230 gr fmj i would go with 16. if your using weaker reloads you can go lower the recoil spring. i run a 14, but im 170 173 powerfactor (PF) with 230 gr ammo. PF= (BW * VEL) / 1000 i was taught was to purchase a recoil spring pack and do a few bill drills into different targets. then change recoil springs and repete on new targets. repete. you would keep doing this untill you find the best group for your load, recoil spring and time (shoot time). If you can't see a difference Id stick with factory speced 16 pound spring. |