Posted: 6/20/2013 10:23:25 AM EDT
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Ken Mays suggested you can get this with certain lighter triggers. Are there certain triggers to stay away from?
If one was wanting to replace a short trigger with a longer one, and didn't necessarily want the highest end but just something that works, what might he be looking for? And does it require any "fitting". Or are they typically a drop in part? It would be for a springy milspec. Thank you for your input!!! |
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Actually, you get it with heavier triggers (weight of the actual part, not the trigger 'job').
The inertia of a heavier trigger means it will tend to move back when the gun is in motion, possibly tripping the sear on a light trigger job. This is why dropping the slide on an empty chamber is both used as a test for trigger bounce / hammer follow, and also why it is said to "ruin a trigger job" if the hammer falls to half-cock and is repeatedly beat up by the half-cock hammer notch. The way you get around this is manifold: 1) providing enough space between the trigger stirrup and sear legs to accommodate some trigger bounce, 2) lightening the trigger shoe / stirrup as much as possible to reduce the effect of inertia, 3) providing adequate tension on the middle finger of the sear spring to counteract rearward trigger movement. Unfortunately 3) has a direct effect on the perceived weight of the trigger job, so you are better off addressing 1) and 2). |
| Got any suggestions on a trigger. A lot of what you said went over my head. I don't work on 1911's. I've have mine apart. But I need to learn the lingo better. Is the trigger stirrup the two flat pieces of metal that come out the the rear horizontally and slide into the frame? |
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Quoted:
Got any suggestions on a trigger. A lot of what you said went over my head. I don't work on 1911's. I've have mine apart. But I need to learn the lingo better. Is the trigger stirrup the two flat pieces of metal that come out the the rear horizontally and slide into the frame? Yes. The STI (plastic) trigger or the aluminum Harrison Design unit are excellent. They usually require some fitting. One common problem with aftermarket triggers is that they usually have a longer stirrup that what they are replacing. This ends up reducing the pretravel (the distance from a trigger at rest until it touches the sear) which can lead to trigger bounce. 1911 trigger work can be rife with complexities. At a bare minimum, one must understand what each part does and how it interacts with the others. Then you need to understand the proper dimensions and specifications involved, at least enough to be able to identify an unsafe condition. Sometimes (maybe even a lot of times), you can get lucky and drop in a new part, but I don't recommend that novices jump right in and start swapping parts or trying to "improve" things on a 1911. It's too easy to get bitten. |
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OK. That helps me. Might help me to know what I'm going to do in the long run.
I'm getting my springy back (swapping with my brother in law for the XD) and I'm not sure if I want to mod this one, buy a new one, or what. I'm not sure if he wants to view it as permananent though. So I'll probably keep it as is and just enjoy it. The thing could really use a new bushing and a flat mainspring housing. A beavertail and longer trigger would be nice too. I might just try to just knock down those sharp edges on the tang with something. We'll see. But I guess I won't be installing a longer trigger by myself. LOL. Thanks for the help. |