Posted: 4/2/2006 8:10:14 AM EDT
|
What is the advantage of a Warrior over a TLE. The cost difference is pretty significant. The differences I have found so far......Lanyard loop, Finish, front strap not checkered, Shorter guide rod? I am new to 1911's and want to get a Kimber, and am leaning towards a TLE. Is the warrior a better gun or just a different gun with a better finish? |
|
Well, now that all kimbers are going to internal... IMHO, the warrior give you less for more $$. The sights are a wash to me, I dont need an ambi safety, and a series II safety can be over-ridden by putting in a traditional firing pin, or by popping out a few parts. USGI guide rods are cheap, so get one of them and a TLE RL 2, and enjoy your frontstrap checking. Kimpro sucks too. The standard finish, thought it may not look as nice brand new, wears much better. |
|
Well, I've never heard of a failure associated with series 2. So, to me, its a non issue. However yes, a standard firing pin will bypass it. Unlike series 80, the Kimber series II does not affect trigger pull. It is deactivated by the grip safety. If it bugs you, either replace the firing pin or just remove the parts. No big deal. |
Fucking up the pin that sticks out of the frame will cause the safety to remain activated. I had a long talk with a gunsmith that a Sherriffs Deputy brought in. It was found to be inoperable on quals day, three months after it was last disassembled. |
|
On my Compact CDP I removed the FPS from under the rear sight. Then I activated the grip safety, marked the FPS arm that protruded from the top of the frame with ink, then removed it, cut off the protruding part and replaced it in the gun. So now even with the grip safety depressed, nothing protrudes from the top of the frame to interfere with the slide. The idea of removing the arm entirely didn't appeal to me since it would allow for some side-to-side slop of the sear (IIRC). I don't think having the arm still in there makes it any less reliable than a Series I gun, but I am no expert. |
I like My Warrior, but I ended up spending $306.00 to replace the critical MIM parts with barstock parts due to ambi-safety fracture and slide stop due to improper fitting. So went ahead and swapped safety, extracture and slide-stop. Also the feedramp was quite shallow, crown was horrible and barrel lug at link was rubbing on slide-stop and chamber was very tight and had some very rough spots. I am now very happy with the pistol.FWIW Next time Ill buy a cheaper model Kimber and spend less money in the long run! INCIRLIK ETA: FWIW My smith said the barrel is an ordinance steel Kart Barrel. |
| I ordered a brand new one from a dealer (TLE/RL II) at least 2 months ago. I specified I wanted one with an IE and I got one in 2 weeks. Just tell them that's what you want. Most shops will gladly order you whatever you want as long as they still get their mark up. |
Some claim there are. Acually if you browse forums you will see alot of people who had problems Kimber's external extractor. Apparently this was true and the rates of failure were high enough to warrent going back to internals. To me at least I see no problem with the external if it works alright. And if it doesn't work correctly take advantage of the awsome customer service that Kimber offers and have them repair it. I know many people like Marksman14 whose TLE has work fine for him and many others. |
| I have probably close to 1000 rounds through my Pro Tact II. No problems so far, once in awhile I'll get a jam but Im not sure if it is due to the external extractor or not. When does this problem w/ external extractor arise? Will it come later when I get a couple more rounds through her? Concerned... |
|
I owned a TLE/RL II with no problems in quite a few rounds. However, I preferred the Warrior with ambi safety, and no series 2 junk and the internal extractor "lines". No problems so far with the Warrior either. So 2 for 2.... In response to rigging up a Series 2 Kimber to defeat the Series 2 safeties: I would feel uneasy about having rigged up pieces floating around in the pistol. I'd prefer to have parts fully in-spec to design, and properly installed -- though I'm sure the backyarding of the pistols might work, I'd be uncomfortable with a defensive pistol done in that manner. |
The firing pin block is an answer to a problem that didn't exist. Most 1911 enthusiast believe in the KISS principle of Keep It Simple Stupid (no offense)  The Original design wasn't broke so it didn't need fixed.  better
|
Ive had both, prefer the warrior, but dont like the finish, the safety is almost completly silver now, started comming off within a matter of days |