Posted: 12/28/2009 2:48:15 PM EDT
| I am originally from Colorado, and will retire there in 3 years. I'm an avid outdoorsman, and have decided my next purchase for these forays will be a Smith & Wesson model 29, with a four inch barrel. What I am having trouble deciding is what finish to go with. I am intrigued with the nickel finish, but I have never had a nickel plated gun in my armory before. Therefore, I am kindly asking for any input, cleaning recommendations/issues, and general thoughts on the newer production S&W nickel plated guns. I should add the revolver will be carried in a leather holster. Thanks as always!! |
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I had an Alaskan in .44 Magnum. After I realized that I was leaving it home due to its weight, I sold it and bought a Glock G20SF. Lighter with 15 rounds of 10mm than the Alaskan was with six. If you're a serious hiker backpacker, the weight will matter. I've been a lifelong handgunner, and a semi-serious backpacker. With all due respect, I'll stick with the .44 magnum. Maybe only for my own piece of mind, and I respect your opinion, but to each thier own. |
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I've got a 4" model 29 that is my 'wood's' gun in certain instances. Mine is, or was blued, it looks like shit, but it does what it's supposed to which is what matters. If I were to do it over again, I'd get stainless, blue's a pain to keep up with, nickle pits and chips. |
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if ya want the nickel get the nickel. You said it's going to be
a carried gun not a safe queen. So what does it matter, You'll get holster wear no matter what finish, some less then other. Yes, the SS will hold up better. So you'll probably be able to keep the SS looking nicer longer. Nickel looks like crappy once ya get a lot of pitting, and can look like shit if refinish job sux. But I still say if you want the nickel, get it. |
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I've owned M29s since 1971 in Blue and Nickel and M629s since the 1st prod. run, Stiil have a 4 and 6 inch 1st year. Nickel finish will hold up fine unless you go out of your way to be rough on it. Both need to be wiped down like a blue gun. I've had great service with my nickel M29s. Get what you will be happy with! As for the G20sf, while Glocks are not my favorite pistol and the M29 and the 44mag is my favorite rev. and caliber. I'll carry th G20sf I have loaded with 10mm DoubleTap 200gr hardcast with 2 spare mags instead of a 4" M29/629 with speed loaders. Good luck with which ever handgun you choose. I will add that once I get one of the new Vltor Bren 10s and feel confident about it, I will use it as my woods handgun most likely.
P.S. You can't go wrong with a Accurate Plating Hard Chrome finish on either the M29 or M629 for a tough long lasting finish. I've got a M629 that had it for 20+ years and still looks great. |
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Wow....any reason FOR nickel guns?.......This gun is really appealling to me, despite all the advice against..... if you still want nickel, then buy it. if the nickel makes you happy then buy it. why worry what about it. its just a gun and probably < 1k and will be a good lesson/experince for you. You wanted to know so there you have it. now if you buy the nickel, you cant say you didnt know if/when it happens. also, its not like by the time you figure it out that you wont be able to buy a SS version or something different all togeahter. |
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nickel was the cowboys SS, been to enough museums to see some beaters still retaining some nickle. Use MP7 to clean it. There is nothing more practical than a gun with wear marks.
Nickle guns have an under layer of copper, shooters in the 70's use to take off there cylinders and soak them in hoppes over night and find the nickle floating in the morning. Now most shooters never even take there cylinder off. For a wilderness gun SS & glock 10mm are very hard to beat, the nickle and SS will suck when the sun hits it as you'll have a mirror shinning in your face when trying to shoot it, Ruger Vaquero bright stainless taught me that. |
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Wow....any reason FOR nickel guns?.......This gun is really appealling to me, despite all the advice against..... Yes, because 40 years ago there really were no stainless alloys that were appropriate for firearms. Nickel plating is a surface treatment (obviously) and as such can flake off or become dislodged. This is why folks are recommending stainless. SS is SS all the way through. Nickel won't stick directly to steel, so the steal is flashed with a very thin layer of copper first, and the nickel bonds to the copper. The biggest thing to know about a nickel plated gun is that if you clean using an aggressive copper solvent, and there are any scratches in the finish, the solvent can attack the copper under the nickel. My advice, if you want a Nickel plated gun, buy one. |
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(edit: dupe with prev post.. great minds) If you get nickel be sure you research how to care for it. For instance if you use a copper solvent to clean it, the solvent can get through pores in the nickel and attack the copper underneath seriously screwing up the finish. I am not certain but it is my understanding that this can happen even without a scratch in the finish at least to the extent of discoloring if not flaking.
I have a 1981 Browning High Power in satin nickel that has been well cared for and looks pretty much new. Nickel will resist corrosion better than blue steel but it isn't a very durable finish. When it does wear it looks tattered rather than the nice patina of a blue gun. You can see how they wear by looking at pictures on Gun Broker to see if you're OK with it for a field gun. Thing is, if you like it, you like it and hiking with it tucked away in a holster isn't likely to wear the finish all that much. A M29 4" is a classy gun. Please post pictures when you get one. BTW: 44 magnum is a great round. However, you might also consider 45 colt. The better loads meet/exceed 44 mag performance (e.g. Buffalo Bore) and with a $100 gunsmith mod you can shoot .45 acp in it for cheap practice and self defense use. One of these days I'll find a good deal on a blue M25 in 4" for my hiking gun. Edit: Should have checked before I posted. The heavy 45 colt loads are aimed at Super Blackhawks and Redhawlks. They don't mention S&W so I'm guessing you can't use them in an N frame. |
| Nickel is pretty I have a older 586 combat master,and it is sharp. But its a safe queen. I'm an automatic guy at heart,had to have 1 wheel gun for the collection though.Still think SS is best for a Wilderness gun....But its your gun get the nickel if Thats what you want. I have a Totally Dark earth XD45 Tactical,that everyone else think is ugly. I love that gun! and wont part with it,. Make yourself happy. |
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I want to say thanks to all for the replies and advice. You all bring up valid points, and offer a strong argument. I have several handguns, but none with a nickel finish. If nothing more than to just get something different, I'm going to get the S&W 29 in nickle with the 4" barrel. With careful selection of cleaning products, and lots of tender loving care, I believe I can make the nickle finish last. I'm most worried about cleaning the front of the cylinders after firing, but I guess I will cross that bridge when I get there.
Again thanks, you guys offer a great service here on this site. |
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I use one of these for an all around in the field revolver. 5" heavy lug barrel=better ballistics and more control than a 4", especially the taper barrelled version and not as unwieldy feeling as a 6" or longer. Stainless steel is way better than blued or nickle finish for hard field use. I use Hogue rubber gripper grips when actually shooting this gun, the wood grips are simply for looking at. http://www.fototime.com/07004045C6390E6/standard.jpg I'm going to own that exact model some day... just need $$$ to pick one up |
