Posted: 8/4/2007 11:50:40 AM EDT
| OK. So I know Marvel has the most accurate system in the Unit 1 and they are offering threaded barrels. I've shot kimber's repeating 22 conversion but got tired of manually pulling the slide back every time. Does any one have other suggestions? How much accuracy does the ciener platinum edition have over the standard. I shoot .22 handguns at 100 yards so accuracy is important to me but if it's 1/10th of an inch it's not worth $200 more for the marvel. Thoughts? |
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I'm building up a dedicated .22 right now for a bullseye shooting friend. The Marvel is what we picked. It's supposed to be far and away more accurate, but it's also more expensive, there's a waiting list for them, and they're very specific about the ammo they use. They recommend CCI Mini-mag, Rem. Thunderbolt, and Rem. Cyclone. They also state that Federal ammo will NOT work. Since accuracy is paramount in bullseye, we didn't see any point in compromising. I picked up a NIB kit off one of the boards for $300, so they're out there. |
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Read this and notice that slide is the back end and the other front section on the barrel. www.marvelprod.com/lglug.htm On the other kits, ask yourself how the barrel locks into the frame, and what will keep the barrel stationary, repeatable zero'g. |
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Considering I too am stocked up on Win Dynapoints and Fed Champions for my slab side (just loves the stuff), I would be a little reluctant to go with another pistol/platform that would require other than such too. Hell to be blunt, the slab side shoots just so little better with CCI or match ammo, and it doesn't justify the additional price for what I use the pistols for anyways. Really, why the urge to go to a 1911 22lr platform in the first place? I can see it if you are trying to out build a 41 for match use, but when the 1911 kits cost as much or more as a Ruger target model, and still can't outshoot one, why bother. Granted the triggers on the Ruger’s out of the box are on the less than stellar side, that can be corrected with just a little work (which can be said for most of the production 1911’s as well). |
| The marvel was good at 100 and so was the Kimber, but the Kimber wouldn't cycle. How do you silence a target Ruger? Would it still be less to get a Target Ruger with a threaded barrel then a conversion? What's the difference in accuracy going to be. How much will the Ruger cost after a good trigger is added and the barrel is threaded? |
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A very good trigger on a Ruger can be had by drop in parts (around $100), or just by cleaning up the existing factory parts and adding another set screw in the target triggers. My last slab side trigger job was $20 in parts (Clark oversize hammer bushing and pin to take out the last bit of slop). The factory sear was restoned to remove the factory chatter, the hammer sear reset, and as stated, a second set screw added below the factory over travel one for pre-set take up. As for adding a can to a Ruger, it can down with a threaded on unit, or as an Integral can. Here is an AWC amphibian to give you an idea of an integral unit. 
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